An indoor air conditioning on wheels outside, it heats?

Heating, insulation, ventilation, VMC, cooling ... short thermal comfort. Insulation, wood energy, heat pumps but also electricity, gas or oil, VMC ... Help in choosing and implementation, problem solving, optimization, tips and tricks ...
kae
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An indoor air conditioning on wheels outside, it heats?




by kae » 07/10/12, 15:27

Hello,

I have a €€€ fuel oil heating system and a newly insulated house with walls and roof spaces. To save a few liters of fuel, I was wondering if using a NON REVERSIBLE air conditioning in reverse would produce heat with a potable COP.

The air conditioning I have is a 1500W on wheels all that is most commonplace. I don't know the cold COP but I imagine it is around 3 or 4.

So if I put this air conditioning on the terrace with the exhaust pipes (so hot air) inside, it would heat my house to what height?

Thank you in advance for your intelligent answers to this silly question. : Cheesy:
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dedeleco
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by dedeleco » 07/10/12, 15:54

Like me, collect free wood that lingers everywhere at the neighbors who make fires in the open (I have much more than I can burn, !!!!) and heat yourself with a stove or insert with double combustion. It's really free with a little bit of healthy gymnastics.

Otherwise your air conditioning mounted upside down will heat with 2 to 3 times more heat than electric, especially if there is little difference in T between outside and inside, with a large flow of noisy air inside, as when it is working outside.

You can try and measure, insulating your air hose well with on the hot group, an air intake coming from inside the house and not outside air, because otherwise the performance will be deplorable, to heat the cold outside air, as with an overpowered CMV blowing in the House.

But if it gets cold outside you will have problems with ice blocking the air conditioning, and death from the reverse air conditioning.
In the PACA region, this is rare.

In addition, this kind of air conditioning designed to work just with short heat waves, may break quickly.
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Alain G
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by Alain G » 07/10/12, 15:55

I am not convinced of the performance of a device like this (which is very variable depending on their price and design) but if you put the device outside you will not recover the heat given off by the compressor itself!


A solar-air panel will certainly give you a much better performance for only the consumption of a small fan so that a few watts.
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by kae » 07/10/12, 16:05

Thank you for your answers.

Dedeleco, I understood your remarks (not too much gel here in the Gard either) except this part:
"on the hot unit, an air inlet coming from inside the house and no outside air, because otherwise the performance will be deplorable, to heat the cold outside air, as with an overpowered VMC blowing in the House. "

If you mean putting the air conditioning inside, it will be useless (at least apart from the joule losses of the system, you might as well have a convector). You can only take the calories outside, no matter what. But you raise a point, this material not being made for that, it must raise the temperature of 10 ° max. So by 5 outside it gives a breath at 15 ° in the happy lounge. Not top for heating.

Regarding the risk of breakage, I confirm it is plausible.

Alain G: Yes, I know that I would not recover the heat from the compressor, but we do not recover it either on the air / air heat pumps either, I believe. The compressor is outside.


You offer me two solutions to reduce my bill:
- the wood stove, I have some logs in the garden but for the moment just an open fireplace, so not very useful for heating. Gym is good too : Mrgreen:
- The solar air panel is interesting, I have mandatory air inlets on bay windows that could be used to bring in preheated air. But on condition that it is sunny and more than 12 ° approximately, it is not often in winters anyway, right? With any info to give me?
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dedeleco
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by dedeleco » 07/10/12, 16:29

A correct air solar panel, facing the sun, even in winter heats to about 30 to 50% of efficiency and therefore gives at least 300W per m2 at the time of the sun by heating to more than 20 ° C.

The air conditioner must have the cold outside air totally separated from the hot air, it recycled inside, heated from 20 ° C to 25 ° C and not cold 5 ° C outside at 25 ° C !!
If it is not workable with insulating partitions, then it will not heat anything at all.

The open chimney must have a closed insert (efficiency going from 15 to 20% to 70 to 80%).

It is certainly the best investment to make an insert basic, much better, than having bought an air conditioning for heat waves, on a house with summer insulation designed, despite common sense certainly, with an insulation, even thick, bringing in the heat from the roof at full speed.

I find free wood everywhere, wood burned or thrown by my neighbors, in the open air or at the landfill, abandoned to rot for years in the surrounding woods (storms), hedge trimmings and trees, even that I pruned for free. the big trees of the neighbors who blocked my view, a bargain, saving € 800 professional pruning, for them, who are afraid to climb a ladder, since a neighbor died on a ladder which has slipped, badly posed and him too heavy at 2m5 from the ground only !!

The scientific method avoids accidents.
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kae
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by kae » 07/10/12, 16:48

For the air solar panel: Ok for the 300W / m2 in the sun. So with 10m2 that I can put on my south facing wall, I can hope to have 3000W say, 2h per day on average in winter. It's a bit low compared to the price it must cost right?

Ok for your hot and cold source insulation story of course I agree. The air conditioning is reclaimed has nothing to do with the house anyway it was just a question of curiosity, whether it "could work". I am not hot in my house in the summer.

I have a "pretty" fireplace. Can we adapt it as an insert or is it better to buy a kind of stove to put in front of the fireplace (aesthetic damage)?

What do you mean by "The scientific method helps prevent accidents." : Prepare your ladder, fix it and think about where the branch falls for 2 minutes?
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by chatelot16 » 07/10/12, 16:55

when you ask a question about a heat pump answer the question!

there are some who have nothing better as auxiliary heating than an electric radiator: any heat pump can only do better than an electric radiator

any heat pump always has a COP greater than one

the problem is the price and the lifespan! a cheap heat pump that would have a real COP of 5 would be great

a mobile air conditioning may have a shabby cop, and a very short lifespan: not made to be mounted outside and undergo the weather ... no defrost expected ...

other more serious problem: the air conditioning outside will blow hot air into the house, so force the air inside the house to come out through all the leaks: therefore increase the heat loss from the house: it it is possible that these losses are greater than the profit due to the COP of this heat pump: therefore worse result than a simple electric radiator
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by kae » 07/10/12, 16:57

Yes, I just thought of this overpressure problem. But .... does a conventional commercial air-to-air heat pump do the same thing?

Yet it works. Could it come from the fact that they do not "blow hard"?
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Forhorse
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by Forhorse » 07/10/12, 16:59

A "real" heat pump does not take the air outside, it heats the one inside, like a conventional radiator.
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kae
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by kae » 07/10/12, 17:02

Ah yes here is another way to explain a very important point that I had zap if the others had explained it to me, sorry!

Since my indoor air conditioning is outside it makes sense. Thank you Forhorse it's clearer. "My" system heats the air from outside, whereas a real heat pump heats the air from inside, without "adding air" to the house.
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