My entry and exit is located at the same level, it is simply related to the location of the room where I have installed my panel.
It is a semi underground cellar and I have no choice but to have my exit / entry downstairs.
I told you about a forum great for this type of sensor or you will find lots of info. It is again available here is the address:
http://forums.futura-sciences.com/habit ... a-air.html
There are 48 pages on this forum, take notes as you read them. This is a advise because it is huge, after to find an info is the galley.
On Youtube, you will find a lot of interesting videos. Here is a link to one of them. After you only have to follow the videos in report
http://www.metacafe.com/watch/yt-QLNViU ... ce_heater/
And if you want to be reassured about the functioning of such a sensor, here is a professional site that make the placement. (in French more)
http://www.grammer-solar.com/fr/produits/index.shtml
Good surfing
Solar Air: find a fan with a thermostat
I understand better
A breakdown will be necessary.
I would like to regulate ventilation and I do not know how yet.
I have the idea to couple a solar panel 5w sold on its site itself
a PC fan at 20 db for 9cm sound of diameter
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zuEMlpDSVVc
and I will like the connected with it a t ° controller for starting and stopping the ventilation if the t ° is not reached
http://www.conrad.fr/webapps/kit_inter_ ... ntiel.html
if you manage to couple everything.
You call me and you explain me.
A breakdown will be necessary.
I would like to regulate ventilation and I do not know how yet.
I have the idea to couple a solar panel 5w sold on its site itself
a PC fan at 20 db for 9cm sound of diameter
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zuEMlpDSVVc
and I will like the connected with it a t ° controller for starting and stopping the ventilation if the t ° is not reached
http://www.conrad.fr/webapps/kit_inter_ ... ntiel.html
if you manage to couple everything.
You call me and you explain me.
0 x
When I was a kid, I had a solar cap fan.
http://www.pearl.fr/gadgets/produits-fun/casquette-ventilateur-solaire_PE5283.html
It's cheap and it works right away.
http://www.pearl.fr/gadgets/produits-fun/casquette-ventilateur-solaire_PE5283.html
It's cheap and it works right away.
0 x
Fan and power
For electronic management, the kit from Conrad is good.
Advantage: Kit ready to mount, no need to realize the circuit board, diagram based on amp-operational I think (Easy to troubleshoot for an electronics technician). No study to do to create / test (time saving). For the price, if you have to buy the parts separately it will cost you more.
Disadvantage: Not scalable, not programmable, works in all or nothing. (It's just to say something).
For your solar panel, I think it's not too great. On the principle of having a completely independent panel is fun, but there will be other constraints.
I think that you make the recovery for the glass and next to it you buy your solar kit. Did buying a PMMA plate not improve the performance of your panel?
What is the voltage provided by your solar panel? If you look at the Conrad kit, you have to power it with a voltage between 10 and 15v. Does your solar panel provide this voltage with a regulation already provided? Is the power supplied enough for the fan (I think so)? Does not he already have enough technique to master to add that?
Nothing prevents you from putting it later if you see that it works well.
In your place, if you do not know too much electronics, I will take the kit Conrad, also buy the power supply (10 15v dc). Although for food, you go to the container yard in your area and you get a laptop power supply, or GSM charger etc ...
Your fan is very nice, but you think it will be enough in terms of speed. To cool a processor or a pc power supply, it works well. But to heat a room ...
If you do not want to buy one, go see your container yard again. In a host you will find one. In cars there is one for the fan and 12v in addition.
Anyway, with the Conrad kit, it will be controlled by a relay. And as you make it work in all or nothing, you take the tension that you want.
Advantage: Kit ready to mount, no need to realize the circuit board, diagram based on amp-operational I think (Easy to troubleshoot for an electronics technician). No study to do to create / test (time saving). For the price, if you have to buy the parts separately it will cost you more.
Disadvantage: Not scalable, not programmable, works in all or nothing. (It's just to say something).
For your solar panel, I think it's not too great. On the principle of having a completely independent panel is fun, but there will be other constraints.
I think that you make the recovery for the glass and next to it you buy your solar kit. Did buying a PMMA plate not improve the performance of your panel?
What is the voltage provided by your solar panel? If you look at the Conrad kit, you have to power it with a voltage between 10 and 15v. Does your solar panel provide this voltage with a regulation already provided? Is the power supplied enough for the fan (I think so)? Does not he already have enough technique to master to add that?
Nothing prevents you from putting it later if you see that it works well.
In your place, if you do not know too much electronics, I will take the kit Conrad, also buy the power supply (10 15v dc). Although for food, you go to the container yard in your area and you get a laptop power supply, or GSM charger etc ...
Your fan is very nice, but you think it will be enough in terms of speed. To cool a processor or a pc power supply, it works well. But to heat a room ...
If you do not want to buy one, go see your container yard again. In a host you will find one. In cars there is one for the fan and 12v in addition.
Anyway, with the Conrad kit, it will be controlled by a relay. And as you make it work in all or nothing, you take the tension that you want.
0 x
With the kit, you have 2 sensors.
You put one in your room and the other in your panel. you regulate the circuit by a potentiometer (in yellow in the middle of circuit) using a screwdriver so as to:
When the T ° in your sensor is x ° higher than the T ° in your room, the relay will latch (and turn on your fan).
When the T ° in your sensor drops below this T ° x, the relay is no longer activated and turns off your fan.
That's what you wanted to know?
You put one in your room and the other in your panel. you regulate the circuit by a potentiometer (in yellow in the middle of circuit) using a screwdriver so as to:
When the T ° in your sensor is x ° higher than the T ° in your room, the relay will latch (and turn on your fan).
When the T ° in your sensor drops below this T ° x, the relay is no longer activated and turns off your fan.
That's what you wanted to know?
0 x
great is that I wanted to know.
so I have all the parts in hand for the control of the ventilation.
Regarding a 90 mm fan at a flow of 150 m3 / h placed at the output, I think it's enough.
Regarding PMMA I do not know if it's really better than glass.
Why do you say it's better than a glass of 4mm?
so I have all the parts in hand for the control of the ventilation.
Regarding a 90 mm fan at a flow of 150 m3 / h placed at the output, I think it's enough.
Regarding PMMA I do not know if it's really better than glass.
Why do you say it's better than a glass of 4mm?
0 x
PMMA
PMMA allows a better transmission of light (92%) compared to glass.
The classic glasses are made of glass oxide that reflect the sun's rays (Except special glass)
PMMA is soft, light and strong (although it bends). The helmets of the riot police are made of this material.
When you see the videos on these panels, in general they use product of the Lextran brand I think.
That's basically.
But it will work with your glass and I don't know what difference in performance you have with one or the other. Or if it's worth changing one for the other.
In case you don't have either, PMMA would be my choice.
But considering that you have salvage glass, it's great.
The classic glasses are made of glass oxide that reflect the sun's rays (Except special glass)
PMMA is soft, light and strong (although it bends). The helmets of the riot police are made of this material.
When you see the videos on these panels, in general they use product of the Lextran brand I think.
That's basically.
But it will work with your glass and I don't know what difference in performance you have with one or the other. Or if it's worth changing one for the other.
In case you don't have either, PMMA would be my choice.
But considering that you have salvage glass, it's great.
0 x
TAMATA wrote: PMMA is flexible, light and strong (although it folds). .
PMMA, better known under the name of "plexiglass" of density 1,2.
Soft, yes more than glass, but don't overdo it, otherwise crack
TAMATA wrote:Riot police helmets are made of this material
When you see the videos on these panels, in general they use product of the Lextran brand I think.
I remain skeptical about riot helmets, Lextran, I do not know, except that cenom looks like Lexan which is the polycarbonate more suited to helmet vision but less light transmission (about 82%).
the 2 biggest concerns with PMMA and polycarbonate are the scratches and the price.
0 x
"Thinking should not it be taught in school rather than to make learning by heart the facts that are not all proven?"
"It's not because they are likely to be wrong they are right!" (Coluche)
"It's not because they are likely to be wrong they are right!" (Coluche)
Re: PMMA
delnoram has already fixed the above errors, but I'm adding a layer:TAMATA wrote:PMMA is soft, light and strong (although it bends). The helmets of the riot police are made of this material.
When you see the videos on these panels, in general they use product of the Lextran brand I think.
Lexan is a trademark of GE (General Electric) plastics division. Lexan is Polycarbonate (PC)
Polycarbonate is an UNBREAKABLE material used for helmet visors, riot police shields and the windows of their vehicles. Polycarbonate is easily scratched, is quite flexible, turns yellow to UV and has a transparency coefficient of 87%.
It is often confused with "acrylic glass" or PMMA (Polymethyl methacrylate). This material is often called by the trade name of Plexiglass. PMMA is very transparent (92% as said above) but brittle. On the other hand, it is quite resistant to scratches and especially UV.
For many years, an “anti UV and anti scratch” polycarbonate has been manufactured, which is in fact a polycarbonate on which a thin layer of PMMA has been coextruded on the surface (one or two sides).
Over time, this layer of PMMA degrades and Polycarbonate reveals its defects ...
The best known example is that of the headlights of plastic cars produced since the late 90s which age quite badly ...
0 x
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