Radiant ceiling heating by air

[Egres]

Hello,
I did not find on that forum proposal of this type: a hot air heating, powered by a wood or gas insert or solar collector ... air passing through a ceiling constituted, from the outside to the inside, by a panel of OSB or Fermacell or other, topped with an insulator, and 5 or 6 cm. below, fixed by waterproof furs, plasterboard type BA13, the furring delimiting a circuit in which is passed hot air, so between the BA13 and the upper plates.
The advantage of this system is that it transports air and not water, no serious problem of leakage, ease of regulation by the flow, ease of heating by various sources, reduced cost because uses essential materials: BA13 ceiling or panels; plaster with good emissivity (0.81), the radiation yield should be interesting.
I would like to know if anyone on this forum has already experimented with this idea, with all the necessary adjustments.
Thank you in advance not to deviate on the ceiling-floor heating comparison, because the enthalpy of the air being much lower than that of the water, with the inertia of the concrete in addition, such a system would be unrealistic in ground.

[dedeleco]

The air must then make a closed circuit and return to the source insert or solar heat exchanger, which doubles the circuit compared to the system where the finished air in the rooms and which is therefore much more bulky, compared to the central heating. water.
In addition the exchange between air and BA13 and the room will not be very radiant because less hot than a radiator and will be more than half conductor in the BA13, then convective in the air, bad, because the hot air remains in the air. air to the ceiling, except to put a fan in addition to the ceiling, and so it is also simple to take the conventional system of blowing hot air up to have the spontaneous return down of cold air.

For me I do not see the interest, for the two inserts I have at 900Km distance.
But this can be used for example to heat an intermediate piece by the ceiling that replaces the sheath to heat another room by blowing in it.
In addition to the interest is to make the sheath invisible by replacing it with the ceiling a little lower with the BA13 which serves as sheath.
50 years ago my father did this in a badly heated house hallway !!

[Egres]

thanks to Dedeleco for his answer;
I currently have in my house a classic forced air heater; the disadvantage is that it was designed for a house that has + 30 years, poorly insulated, and for this it sends air to 35-38 °, very dry, and more the walls are poorly heated by the air from which a sensation of cold wall unpleasant; on the other hand if I do, in my current construction, a radiating ceiling heating, as explained in the previous mail, between BA13 plates and OSB top plates insulated, so on the total surface of the rooms, I should be able to enjoy the approval of the radiation, compared to the current hot air blast.
Ceiling radiant heaters, electric or water, use a very tight pitch, and operate at a temperature even lower than underfloor heating: if my plasterboards are 22 or 23 °, the air does not should not be heated, by conduction or convection, to a higher temperature, and I should be able to benefit from the radiation on the floor and furniture; Another advantage is to be able to make a natural wood floor, which is not recommended for underfloor heating.
I lack technical data and am listening to all opinions.

[chatelot16]

it could be done ... replace a forced air heating in open circuit by a closed circuit of hot air in a double ceiling

it seems to me more complicated than a circuit of water, but if according to what you have already found this easy to reailise the fact: there is no reason that it does not work

but I'm afraid that the only benefit of your system is to put insulation on the ceiling

putting the insulation on the ceiling keeping the ordinary pulsed air will certainly do the same benefit ... so start by isolating the ceiling and you may find that there is no need to change the heating

[dedeleco]

I have the same reaction as Chatelot16 with more that I like the hot air blown more than beamed !!!

Also, first isolate as much as possible is essential ceiling, ceiling and walls for a price and reasonable problems.
On the walls, even a thin insulating film of a few mm under the tapestry allows the T of the wall surface to be strongly mounted (5mm is as for double glazing) and therefore to greatly improve the feeling for a very poorly insulated wall which often in this case. case condenses humidity (then often removed as well) as an additional inconvenience !! !!
It is a matter of preferences otherwise.
Then heat the ceiling by the BA13 plasterboard that conducts this air is possible, but more than half will be done by convection and a slight additional air circulation may be useful to lower the heat of the air against the plasterboard down ?? with a slow fan that does not make noise (or leave a fear of air blown out?).