Construction of a wooden frame veranda.

[antoinet111]

Hello guys, I am designing a veranda with triple glazing securit that I bought for almost nothing, about 25m² of glazing without stud, you will see a false gable on the front of the house, I want to do a step forward so that my house is L-shaped (about 15 / 20m²) of the same shape and height.

good some illustrations: my kind of hut and its false gable


my idea (with slate roof on joist)




my idea of ​​wood / aluminum profile:

so it would be a collage of 5 battens in Douglas fir with epoxy resin to resist twisting due to heat, and solid wood frame.

option:
automatic high and low gas opening system in the event of extreme heat, double glass door, water supply, elec, tv, network, air intake for vmc df, small wood stove, solid slate floor , automatic outdoor venetian blind in larch ...

Here, I would especially like to have your opinion on the amounts in laminated, the crosses will be assembled at mid pegged wood.

I am not a carpenter or a carpenter, I take criticisms with pleasure.

Goods.

[Ahmed]

It is quite strange your laminated profile ... I suppose that it is to facilitate the intersections uprights-sleepers (cross)?
In this case, the two internal battens could be one.

It would probably be easier to (make) mill two rebates in massive profiles and to operate the junctions by sectioning the crosspieces which would come to land on the uprights and would be fixed by lateral metal brackets.

[chatelot16]

your load-bearing wood must be entirely inside: this 5th cleat between the panes will be a problem good for any deformation

to make the interior wood gluing 4 cleats is never done: we glue boards it's simpler: it's the classic glued laminate

[antoinet111]

It is quite strange your laminated profile ... I suppose that it is to facilitate the intersections uprights-sleepers (cross)?
In this case, the two internal battens could be one.

It would probably be easier to (make) mill two rebates in massive profiles and to operate the junctions by sectioning the crosspieces which would come to land on the uprights and would be fixed by lateral metal brackets.

Hello, in fact, the idea of ​​the amounts against glued and come because I have a stock of battens in Douglas fir of very good quality, and I also know that laminated is more resistant than solid.

for rebates, it is a possibility that I study, it will be according to the exact size of my cleats and the thicknesses of panes.
as for the solid mass it is too unstable in torsion, a friend specialist in window told me especially not to put solid in contact with the panes (even with a joint) and to put aluminum towards the outside .

by cons I do not want to put screws or metal system.

[Ahmed]

Yes, the advantage of laminated (rather improper term in the case described) and laminated, it is the great dimensional stability (moreover a tree is not made otherwise).

An aluminum siding on the outside, protecting the wood from humidity will contribute to this stability and, in addition, will avoid demanding maintenance.

Regarding solidity, it is due to the fact that glued wood can be purged of their mechanical defects which are points of weakness.

[antoinet111]

So what do you think of the rebate solution, I need a support for the windows.

I'm not sure how else to do it.

[Ahmed]

Your solution is probably clever, it seems playable to me.

[antoinet111]

on the other hand, I still have to find a solution to assemble the "beams" in the vertical direction, roughly one beam on the other.

or by shifting one strip after the other in the vertical direction.

[antoinet111]

I found an example of collage like mine !!!!
http://www.solostocks.fr/vente-produits ... lle-861153

[antoinet111]

Modification of the beam profile for more solidity: