Heat exchanger: titanium or stainless steel? Or other... ?

[Christophe]

Indeed, the galva is on the solar circuit and the plastic sleeves are used for the swimming pool circuit.

I had no doubts about it: but what about inside the interchange? The galvanized elements are conical so they must be mounted on iron or galvanized elements ... We are here in front of a completely "hybrid" part!

Given the welds there is a great chance that there are 2 "collector" chambers before the stainless steel tubes which start at the 2 welds ...

I wonder what the part that is painted in blue is made of ... it is non-magnetic, only the solder and the ends between the solder and the galvanized fittings react to the magnet. The interior (the glycol circuit), which must be made of stainless steel, sticks completely to the magnet.

I also wonder...

It is probably a non-magnetic stainless steel, by the way, a pro does not normally weld stainless steel with non-stainless steel ... which seems to be the case here.

The bodies of recent pool heat exchangers are generally made of polymer ...

What weight in all?

If I decide to mount my exchanger all the same, it would still hold 1 or 2 seasons or it pierces in 2 months?

I think it will last much longer than that ...

[epfyffer]

for the weight, I would have between 15 and 20 kgs for this exchanger which is about 70cm long. Super heavy ...

As this exchanger is there and it cost me almost nothing I would be well motivated to mount it anyway despite the fact that I am with my salt water and my electrolyser ... If the assembly rotates 6 months per year (max I think, I am in the mountains at 850m above sea level in the Alps, facing due south but at altitude all the same ...) and the heat exchanger gets eaten up but over 5 or 10 years then the pool will have disappeared with the children who will be (too) big and left the house ...

So imaginable to mount this exchanger without taking into account the corrosion of the device?

[Christophe]

for the weight, I would have between 15 and 20 kgs for this exchanger which is about 70cm long. Super heavy ...

So very thick! Do not worry anymore, you will be quiet 30 years before it pierces !!

So imaginable to mount this exchanger without taking into account the corrosion of the device?

Absolutely !

Just think of mounting it AFTER THE FILTER BUT BEFORE the chlorinator of course !!

We always mount an exchanger after filter so that it doesn't get dirty ... quite simply ...

Also a pool heat exchanger mounts in bypass: all the circulation flow MUST NOT pass in the heat exchanger (unless you have a very small pump like 400-500W but that would surprise me) ... The best is to provide an adjustable bypass ...

[epfyffer]

Well what good news! So I can go on the assembly with this piece, it's great!

Thank you for the feedback and information on assembly, it's great and very informative ... I would have mounted this either before the filtration / pump group or rather after the electrolyser.

And for the bypass it will be manual anyway with the possibility of adjusting the openings!

Thank you!

[epfyffer]

Uh ... a little more question as long as we are on the subject of my exchanger and its composition ...

My solar circuit is 100% copper (self-build). So I will have to connect the solar circuit to the two ends of my exchanger ... which is currently mounted in galvanized! ouch, here I think back to my notions of chemistry and electrolysis! It's forbidden for me to remember, right?

So hey, if it is simply a question of replacing the elbows currently in place on the ends of the exchanger with elbows and brass fittings this is not the problem, but depending on what there will be inside the exchanger, is there a problem with my circuit being copper?

[Christophe]

Good note, I think you will find all the information in this document on galvanic couples

galvanic corrosion.pdf

(1.5 million) Downloaded times 914

Then don't panic either! This table is already made with 2% salt! As a reminder, seawater is 1,5% (15 g of salt per Liter)!

So with fresh water, except to really take the worst couple, it takes years before having a leak ... and again ...

We see that tin and copper is limited ...

However, I know of no other method of assembling copper pipes apart from crimping / bicone!

The copper-nikel couple, so stainless steel will resist better than soft iron ...

[sicetaitsimple]

Yes, finally if there is especially no need to panic, it is because these "mixtures" of various shades with copper are on the glycol water side ....

[Christophe]

Yes, but he is right to ask the question all the same.

Pool water corrodes "everything" anyway !!

By the oxidizing powers of disinfectant products but also because it is "open" water and therefore constantly oxygenated ...

[sicetaitsimple]

Pool water corrodes "everything" anyway !!

There is no pool water in the circuit containing copper, it is brine.

[Christophe]

No kidding ?