Submerged pump diagram, start blocking

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dobropat
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Submerged pump diagram, start blocking




by dobropat » 24/07/08, 23:10

Hello,
I am new to this site.

I am looking for a diagram (or burst) of a submerged pump that works since 6 years. She was going up from 30 meters the water of my well. Alas, it does not work anymore.
The engine engages (we hear a purr) but does not turn. However, it does not break the power supply, which makes me think that the engine is not blown. It could be the boot capacitor, but I do not know how to test it.

So I disassembled it. There is a stack of stacked 6 elements that rotate freely.

Can someone enlighten me and give me some advice? :P
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by Other » 25/07/08, 03:33

Hello

There are 3 files at the top 2 files are used for the main winding (RUN) and the third is used for starting (START)
once the engine is powered, the amperage must be measured
on these 3 files with an ampermetric clamp after 3seconds normally there must be no more run in the start wire.

verifies if it's a big capacitor in a round black box
those become off after starting a special relay does this function ..
if it is an oval capacitor low capacity aluminum case
60 microfards is a capacitor that always stays on the circuit (although rather rare on pumps)

First thing to run the engine
the stack of turbines demand to be verrified their wear and games with the fixed part, the performance of the pump depends on this game
if it pumps a lot of sand it is wear

Andre
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by dobropat » 25/07/08, 14:11

Andre wrote:Hello

There are 3 files at the top 2 files are used for the main winding (RUN) and the third is for the start (START) André

There is actually 3 son including one for the capacitor
Unfortunately, I have nothing to measure amperage



Andre wrote: (...)
verifies if it's a big capacitor in a round black box
those become off after starting a special relay does this function ..
if it is an oval capacitor low capacity aluminum case
60 microfards is a capacitor that always stays on the circuit (although rather rare on the pumps) André

the capacitor is marked 16 microfarads 400V + -5%, on the other hand, it apparently has no polarity. Its dimensions approximately 8 cm long by 3 in diameter. How do I make sure it works. I disassembled it then tested with an ohmmeter, the resistance goes from negative to positive and the tester shows "1". Same thing by reversing the polarity.


Andre wrote:First thing to run the engine
the stack of turbines demand to be verrified their wear and games with the fixed part, the performance of the pump depends on this game
if it pumps a lot of sand it is wear
Andre

There are 6 "washers" 15mm thick stacked at the bottom. Is it the turbines. They rotate but only by 3 and not separately from each other.


I think that the capacitor is HS since the motor emits a hum without making break. What do you think ?
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by Christophe » 25/07/08, 14:52

+1 with André: does the tree turn "freely"? In other words: is it gripped?

If not and if the motor still seems tight, it can ONLY be the capacitor. Given the power you must have a chemical capacitor (no polarity is normal since it is in AC). Generally these condos "explode" or swell strongly (I changed one 1 year ago identical to yours), so it is easy to see if it is out of order or not.

Apparently this is not your case so to test it, uses the following simple method:

a) whether he is unloaded (uses resistance to do this)
b) uses a voltmeter in continuous voltage the smallest gauge: the voltage should rise slowly if it stays at 0 is that it is HS
c) another test: its resistance when unloaded must be infinite

Otherwise, most newer multimeters can now test the capabilities, here is a very complete and very cheap: multifunction multimeter https://www.econologie.com/shop/multimet ... p-140.html
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by dobropat » 25/07/08, 15:10

yes the tree turns freely!

Just another question for which I did not get an answer:

There are at the bottom of the pump 5 "washers" 15mm thick stacked on a sixth which is perforated. At the very bottom of the pump, there is 1 flat disc fitted with small fins; this last disc is integral with the shaft but not the others which turn freely.
Are these turbines? They rotate easily but only by 3 and not independently of each other.
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by Christophe » 25/07/08, 15:12

What diameters are these "washers"? If they are not integral with the shaft, it is not the turbines ...

It would be best if you made 2 or 3 photos ...
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by dobropat » 25/07/08, 15:57

some pictures :
1 °) Image
it is the part inside the pump body.
The part marked with a green dot contains the motor
3 discs marked with a blue dot rotate together freely on the tree.
3 discs marked with a red dot rotate freely on the shaft.

2 °)Image
at the bottom of the pump the blue dot shows the disc integral with the pump eye.

3 °)Image
the capacitor which tested with the ohmmeter goes from a negative value and at about 150 KiloOhms displays "1"
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by Other » 25/07/08, 16:02

Hello
the capacitor is marked 16 microfarads 400V + -5%, on the other hand, it apparently has no polarity. Its dimensions approximately 8 cm long by 3 in diameter. How do I make sure it works. I disassembled it then tested with an ohmmeter, the resistance goes from negative to positive and the tester shows "1". Same thing by reversing the polarity.


It's even simpler you have a motor that works with a (Run capacitor) 16microf it must not be very powerful 1 / 2cv or 3 / 4cv
It is a paper capacitor in oil, unpolarized that are quite resitant.
Normally this capacitor is always powered on the motor
it is in series with the winding.
a fairly simple test you dismount the condenser and the branch in serie with a light 100w which would be lit of its full brightness

Verrifies to the mantra if there is continuity in the two coils
at first, it makes me feel like your capacitor and the start winding is correct, which is why the motor grunts and does not turn, and the breaker does not jump.

If the main winding were energized without the motor running the circuit breaker would come off.

So look for a break either in the relay (contact) or in the queue that feeds the pump and last (more serious in the motor winding.
Do not disassemble the turbine stages just to watch them not touch it for nothing, look for your break, (most likely a contact to burn in the relay that are still too small for their use)

Andre
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by Christophe » 25/07/08, 16:34

Ah well with photos it's immediately clearer.

1) The 1st photo probably shows the "containers" of the turbines that you don't see ... a priori you have 5 + 1 turbines?

2) The 2 photo shows the last turbine, I do not know it is not partitioned like the other, probably because of the pump cover.

3) A negative resistance? Are you sure? Did you unload the condo before making the measurement?
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by dobropat » 25/07/08, 17:56

Christophe wrote:
3) A negative resistance? Are you sure? Did you unload the condo before making the measurement?


Yes I unloaded the capacitor.
The tester starts from a negative value to go towards a value of +150 (KOhms) approximately and then goes to "1" and if I reverse the 2 test tips, it starts again and so on. I think it corresponds to the charge of the condo
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