Multistage Pump Guinard: leak on the deck ...

[Christophe]

but hey, for your application it must work

Well I don't really need big power, quite the contrary
since it is to inject into solar panels (the lower the flow, the more the water heats up ... although the reality is not so simple since the best compromise must be found: heating energy / pumping energy ... if the energy of the panel <power consumed as much to make electric heating )

Currently the motor is 700W and I have a max pressure. of 1.2 bar (max rise in the panels) and in permanent mode of 0.8 bar (finally all this with the "leak")

now it is a "mechanical seal": graphite washer supported by a spring on a ceramic washer, same type as for the water pump on car engine

Right there is that ... I did not know that it had a sealing function (I thought to limit deletions)

if it is disassemble well, just find the right parts, and the pump is like new

This makes 2 conditions ... difficult to reconcile given the difficulties I have already encountered to find a "competent" pro ...

There are also the motor bearings and the blades which could (and still can) wear out ... there is a very good chance that the pump has been running idle for tens of hours ...

(instead of polluting the dump with the old pump, whose engine is not even grilled )

bolt

So it's not knowing me well: this pump will be recycled "internally" for an external application (such as watering the garden by pumping in the stream we have at the bottom of the land ... What is prohibited? )

[Christophe]

Because if it's only to circulate the fluid in the solar circuit, then, Citro gives you the right method to use. You will not need pressure (or very little, of the order of 1 to 2 bars), but only to circulate your fluid in the circuit.

Uh ... I never said that it had to go up in pressure ... Cf the pressure measured 1.2 and 0.8 bars ...

By cons, the pressure of your circuit, closed, is no longer in relation with the fluid discharge height, since it remains in the same circuit, heating another circuit by a heat exchanger ...
You only have to look at the flow of circulation (in direct relation of course with the capacity of your fluid to heat and redistribute the heat) for a pressure of use greater than the overall losses of loads.

It is not as "simple" or rather if it is even simpler: it is (as with CuiCui for that matter) an "open" circuit with heat recovery in a thermal buffer (I would do a post on the subject when everything works and I have performance figures).

However, if your water circuit, you want it openyou will have to take into account the suction and discharge heights of your fluid, as well as the pressure drops. There, it is clear that it will size your pump accordingly: it will necessarily be bigger ...

Well that's the question: the pump is currently 700W (well the motor) but I wondered if it should not be better to take a slightly less powerful pump so that the flow in the panels is lower. On the other hand, a less powerful pump would run longer over a year, therefore more regular maintenance.

About that: the pumps (motor + body) of this "caliber" and technology (multicellular: 4 or 5 cells) are given for what lifespan? (average of course)

To validate what I advance, I found that it really drinkable:
http://www.thermexcel.com/french/ressou ... lateur.htm

Oh it reminds me of turbomachine lessons (but I already knew thermexcel I will probably invest in their programs, it's not so expensive even if it's only excellent ...)

[Other]

Hello

Herewith the photos of a belloseal internal daimetre 17mm external 30mm it is a standard for swimming pool pumps
I thought I explained it in my first post but I see that it is not well understood
On these pumps if they are of quality the motor shaft is made of certain stainless steel are made of steel and, when the belloseal flows it rusts the axis, but the seal is not on the shaft, just put a can of compact fat below the bellosel with the axis.
when I put them back I put a drop of oil on the ceramic for the first dry runs
In general when it sank you must check the ball bearing before changing it $ 3,5 6202 or 6203 RS
So that the pump finds its youth it is necessary to check the turbine play with the flange before it must almost rub, if the turbine is a little worn a simple small foil behind the turbine
sometimes it is unscrewed it's left threads, a little shock to unscrew it,
These pumps for a heat exchanger in normal times do not need pressure, but if the circuit becomes empty it is necessary to be able to push the liquid at the top of the roof
Now contrary to the belief the more the liquid circulates the better the overall yield, I made all these measurements a long time ago ...
I had a house system to heat my swimming pool with an exchanger on the roof, (when the children grow up and stop bathing I got rid of all this)

Keep your pump just change the seals and the ball bearing before it will cost a maximum $ 25, there is nothing to complicate the new pumps are not as well built anymore ...
Andre






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[Christophe]

Keep your pump just change the seals and the ball bearing before it will cost a maximum $ 25, there is nothing to complicate the new pumps are not as well built anymore ...
Andre

Actually I did not understand that in your 1st message thank you for the images.

The problem now is to find a "belloseal" which is compatible. Frankly I have little hope seen how the "pros" that I met were reluctant to provide me with spare parts for this pump ... This is also the system of overCONsumption ...

This pump I will therefore keep it but for another use because I would like to start the solar as quickly as possible especially considering the current heat ...

For heat exchanges, yes they are better when the regime is turbulent (therefore faster flow) but I was talking about long-term efficiency taking into account the consumption of the pump also.

ps: if I ever find a belloseal, how do we extract it? Like a classic bearing?

[zac]

Hello

Beast question: do you really need a pump?
the hot goes up the descent cold !!!!
a well placed buffer balloon and voila

@+

[ThierrySan]

Yes, Citro, it is equivalent to a closed circuit heating circuit, except that the heating would act as an exchanger.

The Zac way would work quite well too, but better in a closed circuit ... although I have read that this type of system does not like to spend the winter! Normal.

Chris, I tried to find info on the life of these pumps or on / off cycles, or on the frequency of maintenance. But I did not find anything. The only thing I could find were the ignition cycles that a pump could go through and I think it was on the KSB or Salmson website ... I don't know! It was around 100000. Besides, in this case, only the electric motor suffers and it is he who determines the lifetime of the system in ignition cycles.
Then, life of bearings, seals, mechanical seals ... Nothing to find!

To locate a little better your leak, can you tell us which side of the deck, it appears ... If it is in front, it is the O-ring (as I thought above). But if it is behind (engine side, along the tree), it will be rather like said Citro or André ...

[I Citro]

I'm not an expert, but the flow must be proportional to the delta T °, ​​right?
If the flow is too high the sensor is cooled by the circulator and the output drops, if the flow is too low, the sensor overheats and calories are not recovered, the output also drops ...
I am wrong?

[Other]

Hello

ps: if I ever find a belloseal, how do we extract it? Like a classic bearing?

Still easier than a bearing on the shaft with the thumb and index finger and in the cavity the ceramic with a small spin turns In general it is the part in graphite which has a striped tun and a small slit with hardly visible al eye .

First thing to dismantle the pump take out the belloseale take the measurements, examine it sometimes, it's just a dirt that is stuck on the ceramic, you find that in a store of ball bearings, it keeps a lot of seal in stock.
Anyway you will repair it one day and everything will follow
you do not need to dismantle the engine, just separate the pump su engine remove the turbine (sometimes unscrew left thread) and you have all the sdeu xpieces in hand) with the pieces you will find
box not the head with the pump mark these seals are made in a standard we find them on other application ..
Pump companies and pump repairers tend to make history complicated as if it were an injection pump, there is nothing in it ...
Andre

[bolt]

Pump companies and pump repairers tend to make history complicated as if it were an injection pump, there is nothing in it ...
Andre

+1

they prefer to sell a new pump

sometimes they sell a repair kit, and there are lots of useless parts in addition to the essential mechanical seal and it costs a third of the price of a new pump

André is right: check the motor bearing on the pump side, he may have drunk the cup and then will not last. If it is still good, put a little bearing grease in it, if it is done well, your pump will last longer than a new one

in terms of determining "the" right pump: must know the flow rate required for your installation as well as the pressure, and is self-priming necessary?

often the kind of pump your link never publishes hydraulic efficiency because it is poor, sometimes they just say "high hydraulic efficiency", so that is arguably one of the less poor

in the 4 or 5 m3 / h the yield hardly exceeds the 60% for a quality pump (4m3 / h at 4,5 bar is then mounted with an 1100 motor w)

if you do not need a lot of pressure, take a pump as a result otherwise it's as if you use your car staying in 1ere accelerated thoroughly: hello energy consumption

a good 4 pump m3 / h at 1,8 bar is mounted with a 370 w motor

on the other hand, the weaker the engine, at least it has a good electrical performance compared to the work provided, but a small engine will always consume less than a big one

bolt

[Christophe]

Beast question: do you really need a pump?
the hot goes up the descent cold !!!!
a well placed buffer balloon and voila

When you see the photos you will understand, the answer is yes: impossible to do without a pump (especially since the system is drained ...)

The buffer is several thousand liters and is also intended to heat the house via heated floors (therefore low T °) impossible to "move" ...