Optimize the use of reverse combustion boilers

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duduf
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Optimize the use of reverse combustion boilers




by duduf » 28/10/09, 17:11

Hello,

I installed a Vosgienne Zaegel Held CKV35 boiler, reverse combustion, associated with a 2000 l tank, and a Thermovar hydraulic recycling module (65 ° c, progressive opening from 72 ° C).

In use, I am surprised not to heat the entire tank in a single load by these mild temperatures. The boiler rotates around 75 to 78 ° C, when I think it should go higher.

I wonder about the primary and secondary air adjustment. Should it be performed on such a boiler? By default, screws block the air adjustment nuts, but is it only for transport or is it a default setting not to be modified.

If you have feedback on this type of boiler, I'm looking for it!

Goods.
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by manitou22 » 28/10/09, 23:30

Hello,
Do you have more info, on the surface of the housing, the insulation? Do you operate your boiler fully or continuously? How long does your outbreak last? Thank you
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by duduf » 29/10/09, 07:48

Hello,

The heated area is around 150 m² at the moment, but will increase to 200 m² in the future.

For the insulation, it is an old stone and brick house, ripe 50 cm thick, the cement being cob. I dressed the interior in placo, isolated on ripe exterior and simple on the others. The roof has been redone with slate tiles, with thin insulation that seems effective. I think the house is well insulated.

The temperature regulation is done on the outside temperature (3-way mixing valve with Vissmann regulation). An outbreak will last approximately 5 hours.

The circulator of the thermovar is set to speed 2.
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by dirk pitt » 29/10/09, 09:11

I do not know your particular boiler but I have the experience of a log boiler reverse unical turbo.
the regulation of primary and secondary air is highly dependent on the wood you burn if you want to optimize combustion.
I must have somewhere a document which gives the broad outline of these adjustments.
I will see if I find it
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Re: Optimizing the use of reverse combustion boilers




by Did67 » 29/10/09, 09:33

duduf wrote:
In use, I am surprised not to heat the entire tank in a single load by these mild temperatures. The boiler rotates around 75 to 78 ° C, when I think it should go higher.

.


1) You have an installation with buffer tank (important - it's good!) And 3-way regulation (it's good too).

2) On the principle of such an installation:

a) the balloon stores the calories released by the surge

b) the regulation uses them just as it should (depending on the outside temperature) ...

c) so when you have an outbreak, you can go "full", have a clean combustion, without worrying about whether your house needs a lot or a few calories since the buffer is there for that ... This is very good (because the combustion is cleaner)

d) if everything is calculated correctly, the size of the hearth of your boiler (the amount of wood you can put in it) is such that it corresponds to the amount of heat that your balloon can store ...

So there, faced with your "problem" (which may not be one!), Two or three hypotheses:

a) the calculation is not correct; the hearth too small ???

b) which amounts to the same thing: since it is not very cold, you are not charging fully ???

c) or another variant: your wood is not energetic enough - sparse wood (soft hardwood, softwood) ????

d) or finally, and there it would be more serious: your wood is not dry enough and part of the calories are used to "evaporate" the water, which makes smoke and condenses in the chimney, therefore brown, therefore sooner or later a chimney fire ...

If a), it will be forced to light more often than it should, to reload the buffer more often than you would like (otherwise, that's okay) ... In this sense, this n is not dangerous! (the opposite can be a problem, because you cannot stop the fire and therefore the boiler can overheat)

If b), I do not tell you the solution, you will have found ... c) and d) also elsewhere ...

Last point: provided that the buffer temperature is sufficient (higher than the water leaving temperature in the heating circuit, calculated by your regulation), this will not affect your heating. It must be understood that the boiler + tank is one thing (production and storage of calories); regulation by 3 V valve another (use, as and when needed, of these calories; and only as and when needed - if your curve is set correctly).

I leave Dirk on the issue of air settings. I do not know this type of boiler.
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by elephant » 29/10/09, 12:52

joke mode ON

Interesting, this term "reverse combustion". I thought for a moment that it was like the phoenix: that the fire reconstituted the wood from these ashes :D ....I'm disappointed ! : Cry:

joke mode OFF

If someone could quickly summarize this principle for me, just to be able to follow you. thank you.
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by dirk pitt » 29/10/09, 14:43

a small diagram is better than a long speech:

one of the advantages is that you can load the boiler enormously into logs and they will burn as you go.
the other advantage is linked to the combustion itself, which is different because the wood is "gasified" and the gas produced is burned.
this combustion is more complete and the separate admissions of primary and secondary air allow good control of the combustion.

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by duduf » 29/10/09, 15:02

The operation is quite there.

The only thing is that there is a separate setting for the primary and secondary air, but nothing that indicates how it should be done!

Therein lies my problem.
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by dirk pitt » 29/10/09, 15:15

thing promised; due thing:
here is the page concerning the regulation of primary and secondary air on an inverted log boiler. (especially the general suggestions paragraph)
to be adapted according to your boiler but the main principles remain the same: respective functions of the primary and secondary air and adjustments by observation of the flame (through the porthole)
good reading

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manitou22
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by manitou22 » 29/10/09, 21:30

Hello,
I see that you have put thin insulation under the roof : Evil: this stuff is a big scam do a google search you will quickly understand why.
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