Hello everyone!
I am in the process of building a yurt ready to settle there in a few tps.
While thinking about how to have pressurized water, without electricity, I came to the idea of putting my 2 tanks (hot and cold water) under pressure (4 bars of service I think) thanks to the air compressed. I can recover flame-cutting cylinders.
I will have one for the hot, one for the cold and one for the compressed air reserve (8-10 bars) that I recharge at work once or twice a week.
this being thought, I would like hot water ...
suddenly, I thought of putting a coil around my stove (in fact a 200L can with refractory brick to make an inertia) and put the tt in a thermosyphon.
it is at this point that I need some info:
I have a problem with the regulation of my coolant. as I will use my stove for the heating and certainly the cooking (oven), I think that I will easily heat the 90L of my tank to 80-90 °. But then, how can I avoid ending up with 150 ° from the tank and regulating correctly?
Moreover, I thought of using oil as a heat transfer liquid: higher boiling point and greater thermal inertia. what do you think about viscosity and compatibility with a thermosyphon?
here are my questions!
I hope I have been clear enough despite everything!
Xavier
Pressurized hot water under the yurt
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- I discovered econologic
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TRUEhigher boiling point
FALSEand greater thermal inertia.
Thermal capacity of water and oil to convince you:
water (liquid) = 4185
Oil ≈ 2000
source: http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaleur_massique
I do not recommend using oil. The water is safer.
It is desirable in your case to use water and have an open circuit.
As for putting your water under pressure, if you have
a water point uses a hydraulic ram.
Compressed air cylinders are not a method of
ecological energy storage.
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These calculations should give you orders of magnitude on the water storage capacity: https://www.econologie.com/forums/bois-energ ... t4267.html
Suffice to say that 90L is not worth thinking about ...
I have just started a mini wood boiler at home (see diagram here: https://www.econologie.com/forums/installati ... t3494.html ) it makes, according to Deom, 13kW at full load and the 300L tank takes about 3 hours to take 30 ° C at very partial load (and not counting the losses of the pipes ...) ...
Suffice to say that 90L is not worth thinking about ...
I have just started a mini wood boiler at home (see diagram here: https://www.econologie.com/forums/installati ... t3494.html ) it makes, according to Deom, 13kW at full load and the 300L tank takes about 3 hours to take 30 ° C at very partial load (and not counting the losses of the pipes ...) ...
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- I discovered econologic
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Rabbit, I don't know the hydraulic ram, can you light my lantern?
and why do you say that the carboys are not ecological? my thought was that 1- I was recycling an old thing, 2- rather than purging the compressor (450L) every evening as much as I take a piece of the tank !!
Christophe, your calculations have confirmed what I thought, my fleet will be boiling!
Do you have any idea to curb this excess heat, apart from putting my tanks outside by -15 in winter when the stove will turn on early?
we could not make a loop that will bypass the buffer tank and let the water rise in temperature and pressure without worrying about it ...
thank you for your answers!
and why do you say that the carboys are not ecological? my thought was that 1- I was recycling an old thing, 2- rather than purging the compressor (450L) every evening as much as I take a piece of the tank !!
Christophe, your calculations have confirmed what I thought, my fleet will be boiling!
Do you have any idea to curb this excess heat, apart from putting my tanks outside by -15 in winter when the stove will turn on early?
we could not make a loop that will bypass the buffer tank and let the water rise in temperature and pressure without worrying about it ...
thank you for your answers!
0 x
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