polycombustible steam boiler

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Flytox
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by Flytox » 29/12/14, 20:32

Superb work and very well documented report !!! 8) 8) 8)
It gives lots of ideas ...
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the boulle
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by the boulle » 30/12/14, 10:48

hi danielj

already, congratulations !!

I'm very happy to see someone touching, great achievement,

I had test the gas ignition, it works well, it scares me, the ignition that kidding is boom ... finally, it is for that at home, I prefer manual ignition, when the water is hot enough, switch to minimum speed.

I stop the boiler once a week to clean the pot.

the pot, to hold it over time, stainless steel, even fine, 2mm.

I advise you to add a coil around your pot, you will increase the yield. your hopper must seriously heat up!)

for the noise, its a battle that is to be won for me, what makes the most noise is the wind tunnel x),
to reduce the noise, your combustion chamber must be 100% airtight, is you will see, you will have a nice blue flame as a bonus (two air holes diam 8 mm below for secondary air)

your copper exchanger must be easily disassembled, because it is the biggest maintenance of 3 to 7 days depending on use (h24).

this is not criticism, but advice, it's been a while since I use this system, I have done all kinds !!

for the noise at the outlet of the boiler you can make an absorption silencer as for the moped or motorcycle, its works impeccable for 2 years here.

I take my hat off to you, apart from me (lol) no one has mastered this system so well forum.

good luck, you're fucked up lol you got bitten by the oily fly lol !!!
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danielj
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by danielj » 31/12/14, 14:57

Hello, thanks to "laboule" ... and flytox ...
To answer "laboule", for automatic gas ignition, I would use a flame programmer / controller type "LOA44" which controls the air flow, opens the gas and fuel solenoid valves, checks the presence of the flame, pre-ventilation time, etc ... All boilers use this type of controller (except those with permanent pilot, could that be a solution?), these controllers are safety devices ...

In the meantime I start manually with gas! It's perfect.

For the pot, I'm looking for stainless steel, but I also have another idea: Put thick welded steel fins on the pot, this should lower the temperature of the walls ..., try it!

For the hopper around the pot as you call it (a stainless steel fairing), it is around 60 to 120 ° C! I'm going to ... I'll isolate it with rock wool probably ...

You tell me to make two 8mm holes for secondary air, I do not see where (in the pot?), Can you make a drawing of your boiler and attach it to the photo to explain?

For noise, I saw that the air pressure could be lowered in my case around 0,1 bar, on condition of slightly increasing the diameter of the holes of the air cane (26 holes from mm to go to 3mm? to try!) so big noise reduction of the fan ... We can also make a sound trap with a volume lined with glass wool!
But it's the pot that snores and makes noise! I will probably do a boiler room outside! (I can't stand the slightest noise at night!).

I have no fouling of the exchanger (after only a few tens of hours it is true!). I have no visible smoke above the pot! No odors, which proves good combustion.

You absolutely have to adjust the air flow according to the oil flow to have a good performance (see my previous post) and not generate polluting and toxic gases ... I check by looking at the flame which must be as little orange as possible, then I put my hand above the heat exchanger for a few seconds, if after, if there is no smell on my hand, it means that the combustion is good! If it smells like smoke, there is not enough air, if the temperature of the smoke has dropped, it means that there is too much air ...

The pot doesn't seem to get dirty either, a few ashes fly up from time to time!

Well there is a phenomenon which I have not talked about, it is that condensation of water drips down the stainless steel kerning, it is due to the water vapor produced by combustion, it makes me rust the iron supports, it risks wetting the electrical circuits, I have to collect this water ... No problem ...

A question to "the ball" what is the power of your boiler, at the minimum, at the maximum? Or give me the maximum and minimum oil consumption per hour, I would do the math ...

Now I say Happy New Year 2015 to all.
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the boulle
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by the boulle » 03/01/15, 13:29

Hello

if you took over the safety of the gas boiler, it's impeccable,

if you leave your pot in steel, it will eventually break down,
with large fins, you will have to heat longer with gas, to mount the pot in t ° c. I recommend a fine stainless steel that heats very quickly.

it's for that the coil is really good, its very strong heating is relieving your exchanger,
your condensates are a sign of good performance, it is imperative to channel them because they are very corrosive. you have a kind of condensing boiler,

for the two 8mm holes, it is in the case where you manage to make a 100% closed hearth (the bottom of the pot hermetic to your hopper) you would therefore need 2 holes of 8mm in secondary air at the bottom of the hopper or on the sheet metal at the bottom of the pot. since my boiler is 100% closed I have a blue flame due to the recycling of burnt gases, if I open a little the boiler resumes the "standard" blowtorch noise, I tried with large holes, on the rod, the fouling of the pot increases a lot, 16x2mm seems ideal (with 4 holes under the rod).

the boiler room is also outside for security reasons.

I recently finalized the adjustment of the blower, I have 2 operating stages, small stage approximately 4a5l / 24h, large stage approximately 30l / 24h.

small speed blower motor 150w (blue flame) large 300w also in blue flame, for the low speed I use an adjustable time relay to inject the oil in small strokes, the small speed this eclanche if my water exceeds 45 ° or if it is 20 ° in the house.

note: my t ° c of smoke is max 45 ° because my goal was to recover a maximum of calories, how much do you turn? if your water is at 45 °?

I am looking into a completely different problem, I use the vacuum cleaner motor (coal) I had recovered a very voracious old vorace, the blower made me 1.5 years, I find that recent motor, it is barely 2 months old , so I'm working on a different type of wind tunnel.

to have in mind, I do the maintenance every 200a 300l ...

do you have Skype?

Happy New Year to you!
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the boulle
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by the boulle » 03/01/15, 14:05

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danielj
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by danielj » 03/01/15, 18:57

Hello "the ball", happy new year 2015!

Thank you for the info. You tell me that the consumption is at least 4l / h, that does (if you work with rapeseed oil): (4x10397) / 24 = 1.732 w... At most you have: (30x10397) / 24 = 12.996 w consumed!

If you see my measurements, I turn between 3.530 w et 19.830 w... consumed (with a single pot).

My measurements give the inlet and outlet temperatures, ie at minimum power (measure n ° 1) 7,5 ° C at the inlet and 9,5 ° C at the outlet of the exchanger! Yes it was very cold and the boiler is being tested on the swimming pool to be heated ... At the maximum, the temperatures are 7,5 ° C at the inlet and 19 ° C at the outlet! The smoke temperature is + - 40 to 60 ° C ...

In the future I will connect the boiler to my floor heating at very low temperature (between 25 and 30 ° C).

By the way, what oil do you burn? and how do you get your supplies?

I understood for the secondary air holes!

Question, on your drawing, you have represented the air rods well above the pots,? in reality, canes descend to how far from the bottom of the pot?

No doubt, in the future I would make a stainless steel pot surrounded by tubes like you!

The air canes therefore have 16 holes of 2mm plus 4 holes under the cane, ie on the plug at the bottom of the cane? So in all it's 20 holes on each rod, Did I understand well ?

I made 26 holes of 2mm, no holes under the cane ... and only one pot! But I think that the power required on a pot is too important it may melt!

I have no fouling of the exchanger (after only a few tens of hours it is true!), What do you find as a deposit?

! For the fan I put a motor + vacuum cleaner turbine like you, it has coals too! I think I have the same problems as you, I am looking for a tangential blower with 230v asynchronous motor (without carbon brushes), there are some in some domestic aerators! I'm going to snoop on the net ...
( http://www.conrad.fr/ce/fr/product/5701 ... teur-droit) but the latter is only 40 VA in the manual! Not powerful enough I think!

The two-speed diet is surely the best solution, the small appearance ensuring the minimum maintenance of heat and operation of the boiler. Below, it's better to stop everything! The second stage provides indoor temperature regulation! Nickel! in addition no need to do an automatic start!

Where do you find the stainless steel sheet?

I have not (yet) installed skype, but on facebook in instant chat you can call by video, you just have to download a software that we offer you when we call you by video (the first time only) ... my facebook account is "Daniel Jeze" and yours?

Best wishes for 2015, a +
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the boulle
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by the boulle » 07/01/15, 09:45

Hello

for the air canes, the "stopper" is 4 cm from the bottom of the pot, the oil inlet tubes protrude 3.5 cm from the bottom of the pot, which leaves an "ashtray" space so as not to clog arrive too quickly with oil.

the deposit I have on the exchanger is due to the condensation of water repeatedly, a kind of crystalline crust, a little bit of very light black.

I have 12 holes 2mm on cane is 4 of 2mm on the cap below, which ensures me to burn as much as possible the ashes at the bottom of the pot, is to blow them at the same time.

I think the flame is too long at the outlet of your pot is likely to nibble on your exchanger, it is for that I have opted for a double pot, I prefer to have less power in kw, is turn as close to the power to consume.

for the wind tunnel, I plan to recover a carpentry vacuum cleaner, its seems the simplest.

ha yes, a tangential blower, I tested, ..... barf not terrible, not enough pressure, it's more a flow blower ....

for stainless steel, try in a boilermaker to buy the scraps ...

it's always a pleasure, see you soon.

note: I don't have facebook ...
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danielj
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by danielj » 07/01/15, 11:40

Hello, hello "laboule", thank you for your answers and your advice ... One more question, what is the height of your pots?
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danielj
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poly combustible spray pot




by danielj » 07/01/15, 16:01

To "La Boule": By the way, what oil are you burning? and how do you get your supplies? Thank you.
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jonule
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by jonule » 08/01/15, 09:13

hi 8D extreme seekers

the black condensate on the condenser (precisely, = heat exchanger) is super acid, it is evacuated as on a condensing boiler (etc ...) and it even neutralizes (with lime).

hat you get to such low t ° C at the output, when it is
the real furnace inside!
I heat my garage by blowing the hot air through a double shell, even if I have long been convinced of the efficiency of recovering the heat at the outlet of the smoke and storing it (hot water).

good brief, I would have a question: considering the t ° C in smoke outlet, it is when you put a pantone reactor there? =)
Finally I mean a production of mechanical steam (everything is on site, we can take a carburetor or a steam trap) which passes through the hot outlet of the exhaust in a reactor = 13 stainless steel rod in a tube heating 15/21 to leave 1 mm of steam to transform into HHO.

the goal: on diesel (= frying oil) we go to 75% water and 25 € oil!
difficult to talk about saving with recovered oil, but all the same!

are you tempted? =)

or a blue flame with an injection tube?

good heat 8)
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