Deville Wood Pellet Boiler Adjustment

[24]

Thank you for all your advice

[Yacha]

@ Deville24,

In my opinion, the solution with the thermostat which cuts the burner is a little less comfortable in cold weather because when the thermostat cuts, the radiators will quickly cool and the feeling of cold will come quickly. However when the thermostat will re-engage the burner, it must first heat the water of the entire circuit, which can be long.
however, by putting an electronic thermostat with a low hysteresis (0.5 ° C) and adjusting the valve to have a radiator temperature that balances the ambient temperature (not fully), the thermostat should not trigger too often. comfort will be good and consumption still reduced. moreover if the thermosat used has programmed hours in reduced temperature, (the night) the boiler will remain stopped (in standby) a good part of the time from where a reduced consumption.


by cutting only the circulator, the boiler will oscillate only in its own hysteresis range (which I did not find in the doc). for example, if you have set 70 °, it will stop at 70 ° and restart at 70 ° - X
if the circulator is stopped, these cycles will be very short because the heat produced is not consumed. therefore a succession of useless start / stop even at night when the requested ambient is lower.

so I think the first solution is the best. Besides, I saw on the doc that it was planned: the thermostat contact is present on the boiler card (terminal block with 4 terminals including 2 already used for the internal boiler thermostat) is this where you have plugged in.

to get the best out of this boiler, it would be necessary to regularly modify the power value according to the season (soft or cold) and add a valve regulation according to an external probe (in 500 euros).

hello I allow myself to intervene on post because I am equipped with this boiler for 2 years the problems you encountered we were the same for me, I made a big change on this one to improve the buffer tank, v3v, etc. my consumption and passed from more than 35kg day to 20/25 kg I can communicate to you all the modif and the adjustments that I carried out
this is basically what dirk pitt is correct cordially yacha

[dirk pitt]

hello yacha,
if you can give us a little overview of the changes you made with photos if possible, it will allow other owners of this boiler to enjoy it.
please

[Yacha]

ok I will, I will do the best by account my changes may not be at the top, I think we can do even better, I see it's getting dark

[Yacha]

Good then already a small description
House of the 1970s, medium insulation, on total basement of 110 m2 heated with 3 cast iron radiators, main floor of 110m2 with 9 cast iron radiators and an attic of 80 m2 non-existent casi insulation I live in the center.
The first year the boiler was original I spent about 1tons per month on about 6 and a half months of heating which makes 6.5tons (about) a year or about 33kg per day (but I had already started the changes I put a thermostat atmosphere the 2nd month)
The second year (winter a little colder) I modify the boiler I spend about 700kg per month which makes year 4,5 tonnes (about I made a little more than 5 tonnes since I have heated much longer about 7 months and half) so around 23kg per day

Now boiler settings level (cedra eco 24kw)
Slow motion set to maximum therefore 90 minutes
Water temperature 65 ° C
Time run ventillo 45 s
Adjusting the air shutter to half
For the power as indicated above I vary according to the outside temperature
So mid season I am set at 39s which makes 9.3kw
And in the middle of winter I am set at 28s which is 12kw

the changes
- room thermostat setting at 0.2 ° C eco temperature 17.5 ° C room temperature 20 ° C
- 200 liter buffer tank (I had no room to put larger) with an electrical resistance of 6kw incorporated into it and set at 45 ° c degrees for triggering in case the boiler breaks down it takes over,
From there on your advice I installed a 3-way valve (which for the moment is not motorized but its going to come) that I regulate by hand depending on the outside temperature, for info it is almost never fully down often on half
Here is roughly the diagram of installation that I made on the advice of the forum
[/ Quote]

After all its I have coupled a time delay on the boiler which continues to operate it about 15min after switching off the room thermostats to reload the buffer if necessary (if not necessary the boiler stops and goes into eco mode ) by doing its I gain in comfort. and especially my pad is fully charged
And finally security level (because I had a big problem of overheating when the boiler went into slow mode) I coupled on the terminal block of the boiler thermostat a calorstat calibrated at 80 ° C which activates the circulator of the buffer tank to recover the surplus of heat of it I don't know if I'm clear
This is basically what I did, if you want other info do not hesitate
For the photos I don't really know how to do on the forum but I can send you some, but hey we don't see much
Attention I do not say that my mods are the best and I can be make mistakes (I am not a heating engineer) but at home its market nikel

[dedeleco]

Amazing to see that we are still installing heaters that the user must redesign !!

I am struck by the fact thatwe forget to set the hysteresis of the room thermostat (never possible and very variable from one thermostat to another and too weak in electronic ones !!) while it is the essential element which fixes the rate of steps and stops which changes the final yield !!
So we operate the boiler without stopping, even in mild weather, quite absurd !!!

So we complicate ourselves unnecessarily with a bunch of other elements to compensate and which are the delight of plumbers !!

[dirk pitt]

@yacha,
your changes and settings seem to me judicious especially the boiler temp at 65 °: the hysteresis is 3 ° and is not adjustable on this boiler. it is not clear in the doc if the hysteresis boiler has priority over the idling time or not. so if the burner restarts anyway after 3 ° C water drop same if no thermostat request or slowed down tempo is a handicap for consumption.
you haven't told us what your room thermostat cuts off; or is it related? on the boiler plate in which case it cuts the burner, or on the circulating pump of the heating circuit.
do you have an additional circulator on the heating loop? if so, I advise you to set it to the minimum speed.
how is the thermostatic valve of the heating loop adjusted?
do you have a temperature probe in your balloon?

[Yacha]

while i remember
the problem was that when the thermostat stops the boiler continues to heat for 3min then after it stops so if the temperature of 65 ° C set is not reached it stops anyway therefore not cool
suddenly I put my thermostat on the heating circulator, but the boiler continued to maintain the water at 65 ° c therefore of the consumption, at first I had isolated everything but there were still losses
So suddenly I put my thermostat to cut the heating circulator once it is cut a tempo of about 15 min starts on the boiler (it is about the time it takes to heat the pad) if the boiler is at temperature it stops
Then the problem that I had c is when doing as its I had more boiler circulator so when it went up in overheating I had more security on the boiler circulator which starts when it is too high in temperature (they have shit serious at deville the top), suddenly to compensate for his I bought a carlostat which engages at 80 ° C I connected it in parallel on the thermostat contact which snaps the boiler circulator

so then to answer your questions yes i have a heating circulator (boiler circulator) coupled with a thermovar set at 60 °
set it to its minimum not have time to remove all the heat from the boiler the best is speed 3

for the buffer tank no I do not have a probe inside it is the resistors which have a probe that I have set at around 40/45 ° c its really in case of rescue or for when I go on vacation
voili voilou if you have ideas to improve i am taker now i think that seen the surfface that i have heated i am already not too bad

[dirk pitt]

so then to answer your questions yes i have a heating circulator (boiler circulator) coupled with a thermovar set at 60 °
le set the speed to a minimum do not have time to dissipate all the heat from the boiler the best is speed 3

the purpose of the heating loop is not to remove the heat from the boiler, on the contrary, but to inject a little water at the boiler temperature in the cold water return. So a low speed for this circulator is normally sufficient.
otherwise, a small modification that I will try to increase a little the hysteresis of the boiler temperature which is only 3 °: locate on the outside of the heating body (under the thermal insulation) the probe which gives the temperature boiler and surround it with a few turns of bodybuilder tape or other so as to insulate it a little to prevent it directly touching the heating body. this method I experimented with increases the hysteresis by creating a "delay" in what the probe "sees"
it should lengthen the boiler on-off cycles a little.

[Yacha]

Well, I’m a normal circulator which is at the inlet of the boiler when we have coupled a thermovar calibrated at 60 ° C while the water is not at 60 ° the boiler loops on itself once the water is at 60 everything is in the buffer
if I put it in 1 the boiler (when it is very hot) turns on and off too quickly and the buffer water does not manage to heat, this is because the water does not circulate fast enough in the boiler and this one it goes up too quickly in t ° suddenly it catches the deposit too quickly, I don't know if it's clear
by account I do not see too much interest to delay the hysteresis of boiler 3 ° cd gap c is good I work between 61 ° and 67 ° c with inertia