A stove for boiling water

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martho18
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A stove for boiling water




by martho18 » 20/02/09, 11:01

Hello,

I need to heat and boil large volumes of water (approx 300 l) and I am thinking about how to use wood energy to do it.
The first reflection on the use of a boiler was not conclusive (see previous post) the difficulty being to reach 100 °
I am therefore thinking about a direct stove-type heating system, a bit like the old cast-iron pot with an integrated fireplace to prepare homemade charcuterie ....

For the dimensioning of this machine I intend to take inspiration from the dimensions of turbo stoves (turbo deom) for the power but I would like to have your opinions on the construction itself so that the power goes well on the stove / water contact area.

In fact I imagine the system as a big round pole on which an insulated milk tank rests, contact would therefore only be made from the bottom.

My first questions are:
do the walls of the stove itself have to be insulated?
is that the bottom surface is sufficient to pass the power?

please
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elephant
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by elephant » 20/02/09, 11:10

Could you be more specific on the use of this hot water? Because there may already be suitable solutions for you.
What is the water use regime
Which energy do you prefer? Do you prefer a solution because you can have cheap wood?
Is it an "occasional hobbyist" or industrial or craft use

(phew! I'm done :D )
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martho18
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by martho18 » 20/02/09, 11:18

the use would be "artisanal" (craft brewery)
The water use regime? I'm not sure I fully understand the question. The water is at atmospheric pressure and must be brought up to 80 ° then it is taken up by pumping to another tank (mixing) which is not heated. Then after filtration, the sweet must is returned to the initial tank which should allow it to come to a boil.
I am moving towards wood for ecological reasons mainly and also economic (the energy station is important) and also because I make my wood myself.
please
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elephant
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by elephant » 20/02/09, 11:38

Well,
responses from a Belgian:

Normally, a brewery tank is made of copper to distribute the heat well, well, if I understood correctly you do not want to invest a lot for the moment.
Some breweries are heated with steam (pipaix brewery www.vapor.com ) the production of steam at more than 100 ° is not really a problem as long as the circuits are equipped with pressure limiting valves
Personally, I would preheat with solar collectors, otherwise, I would arrange to have a maximum of tank surface in contact with the space where you burn the wood (is it stainless steel, this tank or aluminum?)
A lead: at Materne (the famous jams), a few years ago, they successfully experimented with cooking at 70 ° under low pressure. It is of course necessary to spend a moment at 100 ° for sterilization, but it is just at the end.

Good luck ! Let us know when it's drinkable!
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martho18
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by martho18 » 20/02/09, 11:51

I abandoned the idea of ​​steam which seems too complicated to me. (on large installations or with very controllable energy it is possible but with wood it seems too delicate to me, especially for an installation that does not run 24 hours a day.

Traditional copper vats are no longer used so much, food obliges = stainless steel.
In addition, making beer does not have much to do with jam (it's not as good anyway) and the boiling step is not mainly intended to sterilize the must but to dissolve the bittering elements of the mixture. hops and precipitate protein.

My process is proven and my recipes too, it is only the heating step that I want to modify with wood ...

Thank you for the info.
Do you think that the insulation of the stove is necessary?

please
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elephant
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by elephant » 20/02/09, 11:58

If you isolate your stove, you will inevitably increase the T ° of the combustion chamber and consume less wood, unless you want to heat the workshop.

As for the abandonment of copper, I find that a pity: it has antiseptic properties that the Egyptians already knew.
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by Philippe Schutt » 20/02/09, 12:14

I would isolate, yes. you might as well only heat the pot.
and I would let the fumes go up on the sides to increase the exchange surface. Your kettle could even have walls with fins to capture more heat from the fumes
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martho18
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by martho18 » 20/02/09, 12:37

Thanks to you two.
It's funny, just now while eating I was just thinking about the winglets ... it might not be bad. After that, it should not get dirty, but if the temperature is high there is not too much risk.

For copper it is true that it can be not bad but it is undoubtedly more complicated to implement, more expensive and more difficult to maintain because it oxidizes between each brewing .... and then the properties antiseptic are pinching fungicidal properties and the good development of yeasts is essential for making beer ....

Well I make some plans and you tell me what you think ...
thanks in advance
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liemar
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heat water




by liemar » 26/02/09, 22:32

it seems to me that the system of the steam engines (the water circulates in a pipe of small diameter, a coil which is heated outside) would correspond well to your need A +
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