Electrical installation problem?

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gegyx
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by gegyx » 25/11/07, 14:46

Hello LaBarreMarch

1- Do you rent?

You give notice to the owner to put good order in his rental.

2- Where did you buy ???

Maybe you should be more careful when you buy!
Given the city center of Bordeaux, with the humidity in the walls, and surely an installation again with fabric threads and porcelain switches and wooden plinths, I advise you to redo everything…
To do this, and do it yourself (advised financially), you must first learn the basics of electricity, and read the leaflets on what is currently being done on electrical installations ...
See your real needs and positioning.
Make plans.

If you do it all again, plan for margin in power outlets.
Provide a passage for telephone wire and / or an ethernet cable in each room.
With me, 20 years ago, there was a multitude of switches, simple or back and forth. Coming back through the garage door, up to the floor, I had to turn on and off 3 back and forth + one upstairs…
I put all the lights in the basement (ground floor), on a single remote control switch. It is very practical, and not complicated.
In all the rooms at the top, I put on the same principle, as soon as I needed a back and forth, a remote control switch (silent, or stashed in a box, upstairs (attic), or most of the time a sensitive variator (Legrand), with a possible push-button input.
With this push button input, you can use it as a remote control switch, on as many push buttons as you want, but with the additional light dimmer option.

For the bathroom, look at the Brico-Casto sheets, for the standards of the socket location.
Over time, a socket integrated into the luminaire above the sink was tolerated. You could use the existing wires, provided you bring an additional ground wire.
But I believe that sockets are prohibited in the bathroom, unless you have a system with isolation transformer.
You see, if you are at home ...
By putting differential protections on the electrical circuits at 30mA, you do not risk much.
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by Other » 25/11/07, 15:15

Hello
But I believe that sockets are prohibited in the bathroom, unless you have a system with isolation transformer.


Forget the hair dryer with an isolation transformer

Normally according to the code it takes a protected differential socket in the bathroom, at least at my place?

Andre
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by Former Oceano » 25/11/07, 18:58

Also don't rely on the wire colors for the phase.
In the old installation of my house (which I redone), the color of the neutral and the phase were reversed.
Worse, in places, the switches cut the neutral. This means that by turning off the switch to change a bulb, the current remains in the wires and we can electrocute!

If you are an owner, you will have to start from scratch, by redoing an electrical panel.
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by delnoram » 25/11/07, 19:59

LaBarreMars wrote:I just discovered another bizard thing! Behind a hanging that I had not removed since I moved in, I discovered a switch that turns on ... nothing at all ... Yet I tested with the multimeter and there is a lot of current flowing. ... strange this apartment anyway !!


maybe that?

Sorry, I'm going out ... Image
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PITMIX
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by PITMIX » 25/11/07, 20:28

Delnoram you're too strong I love : Cheesy:
A socket in a bathroom is on a circuit with a differential 30mA. Normally the general circuit breaker of the apartment is one. But the one in the bathroom must react faster. It must be kept away from water points. Consult the NFC 15-100 standard
http://www.maison-domotique.com/dossier ... hp#volumes

For the inter who does not light anything, 90% chance that it is used to cut an outlet. On this one there must have been a bedside lamp.
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I Citro
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by I Citro » 25/11/07, 20:45

: Arrow: Yes, we often have surprises when we examine an electrical installation.

For example, I replaced the compact fluorescent bulb in my toilet, which only lasted 2 years, with a 7W diode plate and I was surprised to see that the switch cut off the diodes still emitted a weak light (sufficient to spot at night). 8)

I measured with the residual 8Volt multimeter on my neutral! : Shock:

I haven't looked for the reason yet ...

I also had a problem with my garage door operator whose integrated motorized bulb burned out every month. The manufacturer (Chamberlain) who was clearly aware of the problem indicated on his notice the need to put reinforced bulbs resistant to the "vibrations" generated by the motorization (I do not know if such bulbs exist or where to find them). :?:
By replacing the bulb with a compact fluorescent I was surprised to see it continue to light after the timer was cut. : Shock:

After measurement after the time delay, 80V continued to circulate permanently in the bulb which I deleted, while waiting to make a modification of the integrated control circuit (addition of a relay having a control voltage greater than 80V). :frown:
By the way if someone has a wiring diagram and a choice of components to offer me ... : Lol:
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by Christophe » 26/11/07, 00:08

former oceanic wrote:Also don't rely on the wire colors for the phase.
In the old installation of my house (which I redone), the color of the neutral and the phase were reversed.
Worse, in places, the switches cut the neutral. This means that by turning off the switch to change a bulb, the current remains in the wires and we can electrocute!


Same with us, however it is a fairly new house so with standards to be met ... but fortunately it is that for some sockets ...

When phase is neutral are inverted, it is necessarily the neutral that is cut at the switch unless there has been a double fault canceling the 1st inversion : Mrgreen:
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crispus
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by crispus » 26/11/07, 09:36

Hello,

The color code used today is relatively recent (1975?).

I had the opportunity to install a three-phase installation to iron it in mono (old workshop). Surprise to discover green and yellow wires under tension!

The EDF agent who came to deliver the single-phase explained to me that green, yellow and blue were colors used for the phases in the past. In this case, white indicates neutral (without guarantee : Lol:).

My house is more recent (1985), but when building an extension 6 years ago the electricians did some strange things: I got a nice "chestnut" by changing a light bulb when I had cut the switch, and that the color code forbids however to invert phase / neutral.

The funny thing is that, since the connection box located in the attic was a little too small, they found nothing better than to remove the cover and pass the wires over it: a little glass wool per above and voila! I didn't realize it until a year later ...

I had been warned that in my corner few electricians were competent, but there ...

A clarification: the passage of the consuel is not required for an extension, so why get tired?

That said, I did not do better: to add a pilot wire on the convectors, the sheath was too small. I have on their advice used the green / yellow wire as a pilot wire, because now all the convectors are double insulated (no more earthing).

Out of conscience I painted the green / yellow wire at each end in black, adding an explanatory label in the box for my successor ... : Cheesy:

In short, the electrician's golden rule:
always consider a conductor as energized.

I have a brother-in-law who cuts the current then systematically short-circuits the wires he finds, "to see" ... Once in a shop he saw ... beautiful sparks: conclusion, the lighting of the local had been connected to the neighbor's meter for many years! For the simple reason that in the past the apartment was one with the store ...

It is clear that after a certain "vintage", it is better to redo the installation as new ...
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by Flytox » 26/11/07, 14:22

Bonjour à tous

[Off-topic mode on]
"Old fashioned electrician"
When I was very ugly, I saw the electrician from time to time who came to repair the installation of the house ... always between 2 short circuits with rubber / fabric insulation.

He was an old grandpa with huge hands (legs) like real beaters. Rather than going down the ladder to catch his Metrix, when he needed to measure something, he would lick the tip of the index finger and ring finger that put on the wires. Depending on the chestnut he was taking, he determined whether it was 110, 220 or 380 volts! : Shock:

Regularly, if in doubt, he would come back a second time, to confirm! When I asked him if it hurt, he replied with a blasé air that the 380 it stings! : Mrgreen:
[Off-topic mode off]
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crispus
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by crispus » 26/11/07, 15:28

Hi Flytox,

And I suppose the van on the electrician's side was smashed?

Since he was a very bad driver ... : Cheesy:
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