magnetic ballast and neon lights, application info

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gregdu13250
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magnetic ballast and neon lights, application info




by gregdu13250 » 17/07/08, 16:50

Hello everyone, I would like to know if with a ferromagnetic ballast of 15w if I put a T8 20w what is the ballast going to do?

Conversely if I put T8 36w on 56w ballasts what will it do.

And also I have a strip 2 times 20w with a single ballast, the second tube being HS, it flashes and each time the first tube is rebooted, the first tube being functional how to do so that the second tube does not make me jump the first.

Thank you in advance
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coucou789456
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by coucou789456 » 24/08/08, 07:08

I would like to know if with a ferromagnetic ballast of 15w if I put a T8 20w what is the ballast going to do?


the tube will light up like any other but the ballast will heat up excessively, toasting in the long run. since the power requested will be 33% higher than normal.

for your next assembly, the best is to change the 2 tubes each time. if not, another solution, you recover the electronic circuits of 2 eco lamps of 20W each, and you connect your tubes to it: faster ignition and longer life
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gregdu13250
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by gregdu13250 » 25/08/08, 23:51

coucou789456 wrote:
I would like to know if with a ferromagnetic ballast of 15w if I put a T8 20w what is the ballast going to do?


the tube will light up like any other but the ballast will heat up excessively, toasting in the long run. since the power requested will be 33% higher than normal.

for your next assembly, the best is to change the 2 tubes each time. if not, another solution, you recover the electronic circuits of 2 eco lamps of 20W each, and you connect your tubes to it: faster ignition and longer life
Goods.

Finally, I made a choke in the closed position until I find a 20w T12 tube. l The flames of the electrodes hold up for now
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by Bibiphoque » 26/08/08, 08:46

Hello,
It seems to me that the current standard is 18W for TL tubes, except the "rapid start" or it is still 20W
@+
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This is not because we always said that it is impossible that we should not try :)
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elephant
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by elephant » 26/08/08, 13:28

I do not entirely agree with the cuckoo interpretation: overheating is not mandatory if it is a good ballast. But what is certain is that the tube will light less or not work. I'm not sure if it's a source of savings.
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elephant Supreme Honorary éconologue PCQ ..... I'm too cautious, not rich enough and too lazy to really save the CO2! http://www.caroloo.be
gregdu13250
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by gregdu13250 » 26/08/08, 19:36

I am equipped with Sylvania and Mazda splicing, these ballasts are really hot that after 3 hours, it is still touchable compared to the tube which has its middle colder than its electrodes
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by elephant » 26/08/08, 22:01

logic there are 2 filaments at the ends! On the other hand in the middle, the diameter / current ratio means that it does not heat up.
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coucou789456
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by coucou789456 » 27/08/08, 01:14

Good evening

it is the heating of the filaments which favors the priming of the tubes

once primed, the internal gas ionizes. the internal wall becomes fluorescent thanks to the ionized gas

the fact remains that I have long since replaced the ballast and choke system with electronic circuits recovered from 20 W ECO lamps. Instant lighting of the tubes when the switch is manipulated. moreover it's recovery, so cost = zero
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gregdu13250
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by gregdu13250 » 27/08/08, 14:52

Something I don't get, when I buy a starter, the tube flashes before starting and when I use my grandfather's old ones (with the metal shell), it starts in 5 seconds then it lights up without flashing.

This means that perhaps today's starters are of lower quality.

The only experience with electronic ballast resulted in the blackening of the left electrode of my 18w tube. In addition, this tube has become unusable on a ferromagnetic system (it seems that the left filament has melted)
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