Automatic power off of LED ramps:

[Korben Dallas]

Hi,

I bought an apartment in which is installed a system of 5 halogen spotlights GU4 of 20W / 12V brand Ikea set on 2 hanging cables.

These spots are lit often. I had the idea to replace them with spots equivalent to LED. Locally I chose the brand Toulum 4W version, 280 Lumens, warranty 3 years.

When I ride one, or two on the 5, no problem. If I mount 3 on 5, it works for a few minutes then the power turns off. If I mount 4 or 5, the ignition is only a fraction of a second.

Does the diet (Ikea) have a measure of intensity consumed that cuts it if it does not consume enough?

Do you have another hypothesis?

I will try to find another diet to test.

Lighting is significantly more efficient with LEDs than with halogens.

It annoys me to buy these LEDs without being able to use it.

[Christophe]

Nice to see you here again!

When I ride one, or two on the 5, no problem. If I mount 3 on 5, it works for a few minutes then the power turns off. If I mount 4 or 5, the ignition is only a fraction of a second.

Does the diet (Ikea) have a measure of intensity consumed that cuts it if it does not consume enough?

Do you have another hypothesis?

A) Your explanation is contradictory: the more LED bulbs you have the faster it jumps, so it's not a "standby" function (and I can assure you that the ikea gear certainly does not have this kind of function)

B) I think your power jumps because it is an electronic hash power (actually a transformer more than a power supply) that does not support led bulbs. We have a very detailed subject: https://www.econologie.com/forums/transforma ... 10598.html

C) Solution: find a ferric transformer (which has become rare but which makes a pure sinus signal) or put a 12V supply of quality like these: https://www.econologie.com/shop/alimenta ... p-363.html ou https://www.econologie.com/shop/alimenta ... p-429.html

Other members may have another explanation ...

[Korben Dallas]

Thank you for your answer !

I have always subscribed to this site. I occasionally look at some threads because subscribed to RSS feeds. I see that side merchant site, there are many evolutions! Bravo!

A) Your explanation is contradictory: the more LED bulbs you have the faster it jumps, so it's not a "standby" function (and I can assure you that the ikea gear certainly does not have this kind of function)

My reasoning was: the less it consumes (the more LEDs I mount in place of halogens), the faster it cuts.

But it's true that it would be amazing if Ikea thought of that.

B) I think your power jumps because it is an electronic hash power (actually a transformer more than a power supply) that does not support led bulbs. We have a very detailed subject: https://www.econologie.com/forums/transforma ... 10598.html

C) Solution: find a ferric transformer (which has become rare but which makes a pure sinus signal) or put a 12V supply of quality like these: https://www.econologie.com/shop/alimenta ... p-363.html ou https://www.econologie.com/shop/alimenta ... p-429.html

Other members may have another explanation ...

Ok, I will first try a power supply that I use on the custom arrangements I sell to power LED strips. I just saw that the prices on this site are quite interesting compared to my current suppliers. We may be talking about it soon enough in private :-)

[Christophe]

You're welcome !

My reasoning was: the less it consumes (the more LEDs I mount in place of halogens), the faster it cuts.

Ok you did mixed tests, LED + Halogens, in this case your reasoning is coherent, I thought you had only LEDs but the explanation is elsewhere than in the power (

Ok, I will first try a power supply that I use on the custom arrangements I sell to power LED strips. I just saw that the prices on this site are quite interesting compared to my current suppliers. We may be talking about it soon enough in private :-)

OK no worries! If you are looking for cheap LED material, this led ribbon could interest you too: https://www.econologie.com/shop/ruban-fl ... p-532.html

[elephant]

It's amazing. It has been mentioned recently: generally, the halogen power supplies have a minimum power below which they disconnect. Normally, it should not work at all with 1 or 2 led.

But actually, most likely with your 16-20 watts is below the limit of use of a power supply 30-105 watts.

In my dining room (but I knew it before) I replaced my lighting 4 X 35 halogen watts on switching power supply 35-150 w by 4 X 5 watts led + 20 watt halo with a power supply Niko 20-70 w. It works very well.

Try to make one or 2 halo 20 watts coexist with 2 led to see.

[Gaston]

It's amazing. It has been mentioned recently: generally, the halogen power supplies have a minimum power below which they disconnect. Normally, it should not work at all with 1 or 2 led.

From what I understand, the tests are:

• 4 halogen and 1 LED
• 3 halogen and 2 LED
• ...
• 5 halogen-free LED

Indeed, it probably goes below the minimum power of the power supply (or what amounts to the same, the output voltage increases until the supply becomes safe).

[Korben Dallas]

I confirm my tests:
- 1 LED, 4 halogen: power supply ok
- 2 LED, 3 halogen: same
- 3 LED, 2 halogen: it cuts after a few minutes
- 4 LED, 1 halogen; or 5 LED, 0 halogen: it cuts immediately

The diet must, therefore, require a minimum intensity.

I change it (this weekend) and keep you informed.

[Obamot]

I don't know about this specific case, but I had studied these questions on LED lamps in motor vehicles for the installation of daytime running lights on old vehicles that did not have them ... it may be interesting, because it These are also LED strips, from 4 to 8, mixed with the conventional lighting of any vehicle (H4 halogen lamps + incandescent lamps). The following are the problems potentially encountered with LED lamps:

OK no problem! If you are looking for cheap LED material, this led ribbon could interest you too: https://www.econologie.com/shop/ruban-fl ... p-532.html

What many are looking for, if it can give some ideas about customer needs (and I guess you've already thought about it) are LEDs for daytime running lights for motor vehicles (motorcycles and even bicycles). Up to 500 euros and more if you go through the garage and the result is not necessarily up to expectations ...

And there too I think there are problems of power / cuts, etc, that is why few have launched on this niche (and what joins in part the subject of this thread):
second order low pass filter in pi;
- LED radiation, noise problems when listening to the FM band;
- switching power supply and interference with FM band (2 potentially different causes);
- propagation during the coupling between the cables linked to the source of the disturbance and the victim cables;
- defect / lack of shielding of the source electronics box;
- switching from daytime mode to night mode with the same LEDs, in particular ...)
- sets delivered with too thin power wires (to be replaced urgently!);

And when I say LED, I'm talking about those approved, as powerful as those used by car manufacturers, and not rikiki first price (and I have not seen it yet, or so you have to go to see Hé -a ... Phil ... or Osr ..., and there it is very very expensive for high-end and not necessarily as powerful amha.)

[elephant]

Very methodical your tests, Korben. It's perfect.

[Obamot]

Starting from an identical consumption period (LED vs ...), what does this post mean (?)

But actually, most likely with your 16-20 watts is below the limit of use of a power supply 30-105 watts.

Watts volts or amperage (?) It deserves some explanation.

Because to my knowledge, if you have a power supply that allows a current consumption of up to 105 watts / h., I don't see what would prevent it from going down to 10 watts / h.? If you have a 10 watt LED, it will give you less amperage.

I have an LED flashlight which was intended for 3 AA batteries and therefore requiring a nominal voltage of 4,5 volts, as I wanted one with a use time of at least 12 hours without interruption, I transferred the LED block to a flashlight being able to receive large "D" type batteries ... and it now lasts more than 24 hours now. And so my LEDs are always the same, the circuit too, they deliver "what they need" and basta. That's how I see it, but maybe I'm wrong.