The choice of saving light bulbs mid-2013 ...

[anigel]

Good evening everyone.

First of all I say that I have read ... And read, and read again. A lot of pages right here, and I'm even more confused than at the beginning. Too much info kills info? Perhaps ;-). So too bad: I open a new subject ...

The fact remains that I am in a case that I imagine classic: I am about to redo some of my electricity, and especially the lighting. With the disappearance of filament bulbs, I bought a little of everything, and I have always been disappointed. I learned to keep the receipts (because at 8 € per bulb, they rarely last the duration of the guarantee ...), and overall I no longer know which brands and / or models to buy: I have impression of throwing money out of the windows with each new bulb that fails ...

A little lost in the jungle of everything I have read here, more or less recent posts, I would like to give a little "progress report" on the situation in 2013 on the theme: what to choose to choose sustainable and efficient (energetically speaking). Today I mostly have CFLs (OSRAM, Philips, Leclerc ...), and a few LEDs (LIDL, bought after reading a good review here). Conclusion: CFLs light up like my grandmother's candles for the first 5 minutes, and LEDs light up like my grandmother's candles almost all the time (but at least it's constant: I have no doubt misjudged my need for power by buying them).

So today I wonder: in mid-2013, what are you buying, are you satisfied with it, and, icing on the cake: do you know if it consumes what it says?

Thank you in advance,

[BobFuck]

Here, it reminds me that I must think about buying a supply of halogens before September ...

> in mid-2013, what are you buying

halogens
LEDs on timers
shit green fluorescent bulbs in some places where rotten light is tolerable (ie, parking)

> are you satisfied

Yes

[RV-P]

- Anigel, I simply suggest that you "make" low consumption lamps! Carefully guard the electronic "ballast" (the part containing the base) of your burnt out bulbs. Fit straight fluorescent tubes with corresponding power:
* 9W ballast -> 8W tube,
* 11 or 12W ballast -> 13W tube,
* 14 or 15W ballast -> 15W tube,
* 18W ballast -> 18W tube!
(For more details, see here: https://www.econologie.com/forums/faire-fonctionner-un-tube-droit-avec-un-ballast-de-lampeco-t12061.html)
- You can put an 18W tube on a 15W ballast: it will light a little less bright! And if you want light, take 6200K white "daylight" tubes!
- I think it will meet most of your needs!
- I even saw 55W compact fluorescent bulbs. If you still have a 58W fluorescent tube, it will work without problems!
- At home, I have 3 tubes that work according to this principle and I have no problems:
* a 9W,
* a 13W,
* and an 18W!
- And straight tubes last much longer than "bent" "madeInChina-youyou" tubes! In addition, unlike the self + starter couple, ignition is instantaneous!
- In addition, at M. Bricolage, at my place (Reunion Island), they sell low-consumption lamps of the SKIRON brand (daylight - 6200K) at less than 3 €! See if you find any near you ...
- Up to you...

[RV-P]

- Just to check, I just had a look at Mr. Bricolage. SKIRON bulbs are 1,5 € !!! And in terms of life, they have nothing to envy to bulbs 5 times more expensive!

[Did67]

de émoire, in the May issue of Que Choisir, CFL tests ...

I just remember that some of the yellow and blue swedish are among the expensive smoins and all withstood the wear test ...

Compared to what has been said, we will have to learn to calculate with the lm (lumen = luminous intensity), the light temperatures (in ° K; cold or hot lights ") and the IC (indices of ??? shit I do not know anymore)...

I had a disastrous experience with low-end Chinese LEDs: out of 10, 9 dead in less than a year. I have a brand that sponsored Roland-Garros, great! And which has been going on for over a year ...

Ditto for fluocopcates. The more it goes, the more I go to brands with some that start almost instantly.

Finally, LEDs, except "special construction", are suitable for spotlights. We must also learn to arrange lighting differently: warm mood lighting; cooler spots on the keyboard, reading corner with two or 3 LEDs, etc ... etc ...

Putting these "new lights" in a chandelier is like putting a jerrycan on a postman's bike (???? NOn, nothing like that, a silly phrase to say it's silly!).

[chatelot16]

same principle: I buy the cheapest: one at a time, and when it holds up I always buy the same

for the moment I found a model b22 15w less than 2euro brico depot ... but strangely it is not on their website

[RV-P]

- A tip: rather than buying a "yellow" bulb (2700k) for lighting, why not buy a white bulb (6400k) and put a straw yellow transparent paper ("gelatin") on it !? ... If the bulb burns out, there's no need to change the paper, just the bulb!
- But 6400k "daylight" lighting is better tolerated than 2700k "yellow" lighting! In addition, as we speak of "light therapy" for lack of sun, it contributes to well-being in the house!

[anigel]

Hello,

@ RV-P: the idea of ​​recovering the ballasts is fun, but I only have 3 tubes in the house, and my concern is rather at the level of the living rooms and associated chandeliers.

I end up wondering if I'm not going to go back to halogens, quite simply ... Because spending hours (years?) Testing everything and anything ... At least the halogens light up instantly and well ;-) .

[chatelot16]

there are halogen lamps with the size of conventional 220V bulbs, it works well provided that these bulbs remain perfectly stationary: if we shake the light when it is lit it burns out every time! it is important not to use these halogen lamp on portable lamp or other mobile lamp ... or else it would be necessary to supply them with 180 V so that they are less hot than with 220V

[BobFuck]

On portable lamps, 5W xanlite style LEDs are ideal: it does not burn your fingers, it does not explode if it takes a drop of water; it survives falls well ...