Counter econometer inconsistent billing or not?

[Tinevez]

I see too go cut the freezer one hour to measure the conso my house and lit TV box, etc.

If you have a good freezer (classified A or A + or even A ++), you can switch it off for 12 hours without any risk [they generally "hold" 48 hours without opening! See instructions]

Just do not forget to reconnect!

Precisely, precisely, I am afraid of it (Remember to reconnect ...)

(My econometer statement of enormous powers, but I have not exactly taken note)

When the engine starts ? Or all the time? How many ?

[Startup, it is normal for an engine]

I do not know, but I 12h averaging 25W, what seems right for a freezer 10 years. I think the point was to 1000W, but I could be wrong.

PS: a dishwasher A ++, it consumes how much per cycle? Mine a cycle varies 0,7kWh (soaking cycle, enough for most washing provided they scrape the leftovers and use a washing liquid not tablet) and 1,4 kWh (nasty cycle that I uses very little). I have not measured the conso water.
2 PS: is it possible to connect the dishwasher (and / or washing machine) with warm water to benefit from its boiler (and in my case the future solar water heater)

[jlt22]

Have you thought of the cons of your TV

It consumes 115 w and never remains in standby (off by switch)
As against the orange box live is still in service, I've got to remedy.

[Did67]

1) To remember, there are "simple" methods: a post-it on your coffee maker? a big sheet of paper on the fridge in the kitchen? Etc ...

2) If your power "spike" is a peak recording, it may be a fraction of a second at startup. Without any impact on consumption !!!

25 average of W does not seem a big power for an engine !!!

3) I ordered the LV. I only have its instructions and the "standard" consumption. I don't have an econometer - so I can't commit to delivering actual measurements!

4) Yes, LV is the CESI. Condition: Very short connection. Water consumption has become so low that otherwise hot water just fills the pipe!

With the new (6 the ring), I'll change the line for a 10 mm diameter.

Second condition: to have a thermostatic valve (normally compulsory!) Calibrated to 60 ° output CESI (not to burn the solenoid valve - or children who would open warm water thoroughly inadvertently - over 65 °, burns guaranteed!)

For LL, it is more complicated because the washing cycle follows two rinsing cycles. If you don't have a "system" it will consume a lot of hot water for nothing (rinse).

I mounted a bypass, but had to stay nearby. Did not work effectively. Too restrictive.

I'll buy a washing machine with double entry hot / cold water and place near the CESI. For info, without ads, I identified it, ended (a search engine and you should find suddenly): Bosch Avantixx 8 VarioPerfect WAQ28311FF

[Tinevez]

2) If your power "spike" is a peak recording, it may be a fraction of a second at startup. Without any impact on consumption !!!

Yes, yes, I know that 25W is correct and it is only a tip. On the other hand, the 25Ws are unequally distributed, so that falsifies some measures, that's all.

[jlt22]

Tinevez wrote:

PS: a dishwasher A ++, it consumes how much per cycle? Mine a cycle varies 0,7kWh (soaking cycle, enough for most washing provided they scrape the leftovers and use a washing liquid not tablet) and 1,4 kWh (nasty cycle that I uses very little). I have not measured the conso water.
2 PS: is it possible to connect the dishwasher (and / or washing machine) with warm water to benefit from its boiler (and in my case the future solar water heater)

I have an LV Brant A ++, its conso varies 0,8 1,8 programs kw.

We use ECO: prewash, wash 55 ° C, rinsing, hot rinse, drying, duration of cycle 130 150 mn; tablet laundry; given Conso: 1,3 1,4 to kw

I connected from the start of hot water (gas boiler), but I have never measured its real cons.

I prefer to leave the washing machine on cold water as we 80% of our laundry 30 ° C. Otherwise, it would add a thermostatic valve with the risk of forgetting when going from hot to cold +.

[chatelot16]

25 average of W does not seem a big power for an engine !!!

I see that the freezer compressor is 150w when he turns: if it is well insulated and with the thermostat set to a reasonable temperature does not often turn

25 / 150 = 1 / 6 which is quite likely

the problem is that it just open a little time to look for something in the background to greatly increase the consomation

my favorite porn solution is the small power meter to jack like the
https://www.econologie.com/shop/prise-el ... p-238.html


also monitors the refrigerator, it is believed that it consumes less because it is less cold, but the door is opened more often, and there are often leaks at the door

[Did67]

Yes I agree.

By "big power", I reacted to the post of thivenez who had used this term ...

Nevertheless, consumption is high without being found out why! Its consumption freezer seems normal.

I think we have to start by installing a meter consumption (No power) and to the extent one night (eg 23 am to 6 h) after every cut (including freezer that fears nothing / fridge - to empty of all that is sensitive - chopped steak! - before).

[chatelot16]

cut the freezer for 12h is a trap: it will then consume much more to get back to the right temperature

it is better to power meter socket on the freezer and the refrigerator and let them always connected

these have taken at least 2 most useful function: indication of the instantaneous power and energy metering, as a counter edf!
https://www.econologie.com/shop/prise-el ... p-238.html

not because it is made to measure a device into a socket it prevents the use of a table Electric: one can always remove 2 son in a table and putting them through a male plug and a socket female, or you just insert it wattmettre

it is also temporarily put this WATTMETRE across the table and verify that it gives the same figure as the meter EDF, being careful not to alumer chaose too much at once not to exceed the 16A this WATTMETRE

[Tinevez]

my econometer already has the function of measuring the total consumption (in addition to the display of the instantaneous power). Thus I know the average powers of my fridge and my freezer (I realized 12h tests on each, with infrequent opening, but with openings anyway)

not really in my case, I do not understand, I feel that every Wh consumed my meter charges a little more ...

[Did67]

cut the freezer for 12h is a trap: it will then consume much more to get back to the right temperature

It's just to know if everything being disconnected "physically", the meter is still running - or not!

In short, whether there is interference or not!

If the meter does not move, can then, line by line, night after night, check the correlation between consumption of the device and reconnected consumption rising edge of the counter EdF.

Hoping to see clearly!