Exterior wooden staircase - type of wood - center distance

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vroummm
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Exterior wooden staircase - type of wood - center distance




by vroummm » 05/08/10, 17:56

Hello,
we had an outside staircase made. Apparently the wood that was set for the steps is douglas length: 181cm x width 14.2cm x thickness 2.7 cm (or 2.8). There are 3 7 stringer steps. The thickness of the silt is 7cm.

1 / The center distance is 71 cm. Or on a site that sells silt and planks they advise for this thickness of wood (but another species: pine treated autoclave Class 4 CTB B +) a max center distance of 50cm. Can the difference of 20cm be a pb? Is there regulation or obligations in this area? Is the installer obliged to respect certain rules?

2 / By the way I saw that Douglas fir was an 3 class wood. Is it enough for an outside staircase a priori we will not treat. (Paris region for the meteo)? A lumber seller told me that the 4 grade pine lasted 20 years against 10 for Douglas fir.

3 / for outdoor stairs are there any obligations with regard to the railings? Because there is none. and the bay window is 180cm wide and the steps too! (From the inside it is not beautiful and the use is dangerous in our opinion).

4 / the staircase feels very strong even when being installed since 1 week outside. Is it the natural smell or a treatment? (We found dead flies and a ladybug on the steps ... maybe a natural death).

By avence thank you for your advice and feedback
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oiseautempete
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by oiseautempete » 06/08/10, 09:12

The Douglas or Oregon pine (not of origin but which is given only for the native tree of America) is not well adapted for the outside if not treated, on the other hand it is very durable even without no treatment when it is protected from the rain and it does not attract insects. It is a fast-growing wood, most commonly used in timber, many planted in the Vosges and the Massif Central ...
The smell? it is a resinous tree, so yes it smells of resin especially when it is new, if it is treated "outside", it depends on the treatment, if it is old-fashioned (products all as toxic as each others) or "Bio" based on vegetable oils and anhydride ...
For the outside untreated one uses rather larch which resists better or Robinia (false Acacia), in the USA one uses rather Redwood (Sequoïa sempervirens)
For durability, it is especially important to avoid stagnant water and contact with the earth ...
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BIOTEK
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Re: Exterior wooden staircase - type of wood - center distance




by BIOTEK » 05/01/11, 07:02

vroummm wrote:Hello,
3 / for outdoor stairs are there any obligations with regard to the railings? Because there is none. and the bay window is 180cm wide and the steps too! (From the inside it is not beautiful and the use is dangerous in our opinion).


Yes it takes a minimum of 11 cm between the horizontal bars if there are any?

vroummm wrote:
4 / the staircase feels very strong even when being installed since 1 week outside. Is it the natural smell or a treatment? (We found dead flies and a ladybug on the steps ... maybe a natural death).


Logically considering that it is Douglas and class3 it should not be treated

The only problem (but it all depends on the fact that the gray wood is precisely the attraction of the Douglas) is that the wood outside will change color with variations of gray and black.

Regarding the smell, this is not Red Cedar but it also has a characteristic smell
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bidouille23
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by bidouille23 » 02/04/11, 11:52

Bonjour,


A pine is not worth another pine, a birch in Finland is a very good construction tree if pushed in France no (everything is in the speed of growth among other), so compared two softwood is no way I think;) .

Douglas fir is more resistant than the larch which is also a class 3 resineux;) Compared the comparable and looked at the resistance charts will be better :) .

bioteka say:

vroummm wrote:
Hello,
3 / for outdoor stairs are there any obligations with regard to the railings? Because there is none. and the bay window is 180cm wide and the steps too! (From the inside it is not beautiful and the use is dangerous in our opinion).


Yes it takes a minimum of 11 cm between the horizontal bars if there are any?

Minimum ??? I start at 10 from the bottom and I go up gradually (10-23-36-etc), in fact it is especially important to avoid that children fall with the bottom lines, the presence of a handrail is a security not negligible indeed.
This says with 1.8 m wide I see badly or put a bodyguard or so it takes long bra when walked in the middle of the spans;).

Each wood has its own smell, and the principle of the woods dis imputrecible is that we do not need to treat, unless it has a lot of sapwood;) it can be useful although if the bosi is well ventilated he does not fear anything, little bebettes like black and wet in general;).

On the other hand the gray yes but the black no, except in case of treatment otherwise it goes dimmed, and there is anti-grease treatment (rustol among others).

1 / The center distance is 71 cm. Or on a site that sells silt and planks they advise for this thickness of wood (but another species: pine treated autoclave Class 4 CTB B +) a max center distance of 50cm. Can the difference of 20cm be a pb? Is there regulation or obligations in this area? Is the installer obliged to respect certain rules?

which section ??? and not one essence is not worth another of the same family, so the resistance is variable,

http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Travail_du_bois

http://www.crit.archi.fr/web%20folder/b ... Page4.html


The Douglas fir has a higher resistance than the larch;), takes a joist of each species and looks at the flexion, douglas win without worries.

Finally, on the east side, this is a story that had to be seen before, so do not put everything back on the backs of the craftsmen, it is wrong to agree before signing the quote, it is also made for that a quote it is a legal contract that determines the work so do not sign lightly.

perso the description of your staircase does not shock me, remains the story of the bodyguard but if in the quote it is not mentioned ...


Lol the pin class4 lasts 20 years lol, I want to see that.
What percentage of sapwood on each;), 10 in the Douglas fir mdrrrrr
so all the home done in douglas no longer exists in fact they are illusions in canada especially lol.

Do not be fooled by the salesman's blabla who knows nothing about it. Open your eyes and see for yourself.

The Internet is not the only way to make forum ,;), there are also people that we call pro called them they should answer you quickly if they are nice) took companions and you, will not be surprised when the advice and explanation (and works) .

go to later and no stress he will hold your staircase, as for sports if the stairs do not move when you hop in the middle of the slime is that it is well dimensioned;), if it moves a little is that it's right, if it goes down and it goes up serious is that it is too weak a section.

see you
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dedeleco
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by dedeleco » 02/04/11, 20:51

if it goes down and it rises serious is that it is too weak a section.

So before reception and especially before paying, you come to test many and dance on the steps of hip hop by jumping high above, and if it wobbles breaking is that it is poorly designed section too weak! !! And the craftsman has to redo the good section to get paid!

The real red cedar of origin resists 30 years to the bad weather, as evidenced by my gate of 30 years outside untreated.
But it is a light soft wood not suitable for walking on it.
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bidouille23
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by bidouille23 » 03/04/11, 11:02

Hello ,

lol can do a fiesta on and for the stairs it's true that all occasions are good no;).

no you do not jump on it just send you your weight up and down without taking off the feet, alloutoutoutoutoutoutyoueveryoueveryoueveryoueveryouever, have raised the right hand have raised the left hand ...
A rot-proof wood is an imputrescible wood, there are hard ones of tender, dense of less dense, and of the same species to the other according to the place of growth the dense can become much less dense;) .. For the resistance everything also varies but in general have found the value of references, so if it can reassure, for terraces have put Douglas fir in frame for its better mechanical resistance and larch for the price and the resistance to the water ( and pink also like the douglas app), no red cedar he would be deflated right away.
I'm not the only one to do the same, a master companion does the same,;) and his, for the moment :) ;), it is rather the house which moves around the terrace lol but that is another story of under calculation of dimensioning;), but it is not me :) .

Otherwise the douglas is like the red cedar side longevity except that the red cedar is very flexible, it marks just by pressing with the nail on it, I put siding, well it is better not to have a child who plays with;).

After there is the amount of sapwood for the longevity, but ben the calculation of sapwood% ben it is not won;).
The sapwood being tender it will be to eat by the bebettes.

balance I would say, in any case before paying the total sum (you only have 30% max to give before receipt) checked all but before all read your quote everything is marked in it.
Before you can inquire, the net is very good for that, and finally can even call the room craftsmen etc etc everything is possible :) .

see you
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