House Thermopierre monomur

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bham
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by bham » 16/01/07, 09:53

jean63 wrote:
Regarding resistance to humidity, a friend recently told me that I immersed 24 blocks 2 hours: 1 concrete block and 1 aerated concrete. After immersion, the 2 blocks were split ... the concrete block was completely soggy unlike aerated concrete. (25-30% penetration not all sides but the heart was kept dry)

What! a completely soggy breeze block after 24 hours in the water ..... I can't believe it .....

Well, I believe in it, concrete blocks are real sponges because they are full of micro holes. In order for the concrete block to demould quickly and well, without waiting for the mortar to dry, the cement / gravel mixture must be as liquid as possible. But the binder is water. And a concrete block made of "dry" and poorly vibrated mortar (if you vibrate too much, you tamp + and you use + mortar >>> not profitable!) Will be stuffed with air pockets. The quality of a concrete block therefore depends on the quality of the ingredients and the quality of manufacture, mixing, "pouring", vibrating, drying. And then a poorly vibrated concrete block will be rougher, it will allow easier adhesion of the plaster but also a greater consumption of plaster ...
By cons from there to split .... without the action of the gel, without it being cantilevered ... ????? de la M .... this breeze block there.

Christophe wrote:As for the "foaming" it is done with an aluminum oxide I believe ... Besides, some "anti" monomur denounce that the aluminum ends up "evaporating" and polluting the inhabitants of the house ... Moué pkoi not .....

Ah well, the aluminum evaporates ... ??? it does not smoke anyway? : Cheesy:
Where did you read Christophe? I planned to put it in an interior partition, between bedroom and attic. Suddenly, you put me in doubt!
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Targol
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by Targol » 16/01/07, 10:31

bham wrote:By cons from there to split .... without the action of the gel, without it being cantilevered ... ????? de la M .... this breeze block there.


You read wrong, Bham:

Christophe wrote:After immersion the 2 blocks have been Split(...)


... and not
After immersion the 2 blocks were Split(...)
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bham
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by bham » 16/01/07, 11:18

Targol wrote:You read wrong, Bham:

Christophe wrote:After immersion the 2 blocks have been Split(...)

... and not
After immersion the 2 blocks were Split(...)

: Oops: mea culpa, mea maxima culpa!!
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jean63
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by jean63 » 16/01/07, 11:24

Well, I'm going to try to put this block in the water to see what it becomes.
In order for the concrete block to demould quickly and well, without waiting for the mortar to dry, the cement / gravel mixture must be as liquid as possible. But the binder is water. And a concrete block made of "dry" and poorly vibrated mortar (if you vibrate too much, you tamp + and you use + mortar >>> not profitable!) Will be stuffed with air pockets.


OK agree with you.
My father was a mason until the 80s and he already said at the time that the quality, the thickness of the concrete blocks was deteriorating compared to the first ones which were very thick and solid. A hammer blow and they left in pieces while on the first they could cut them as they wished, a bit like the size of stones (which he had used to build the walls before the arrival of concrete blocks).
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Targol
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by Targol » 16/01/07, 11:31

bham wrote:
Targol wrote:You read wrong, Bham:

Christophe wrote:After immersion the 2 blocks have been Split(...)

... and not
After immersion the 2 blocks were Split(...)

: Oops: mea culpa, mea maxima culpa!!


You'll make me 2 blocks and 3 ovaries ... uhhh no 2 Avé and 3 Pater : Lol:
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chatelot16
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by chatelot16 » 03/05/08, 11:43

to foam concrete, it's aluminum powder: it reacts with water and lime cement to make hydrogen bubbles

only alumina or lime aluminate remains in the finished product

hydrogen diffuses so easily that it does not have to stay in it for a long time

I do not know the amount of aluminum consumed but I think it is aluminum that makes the price and energy cost of this material
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Christophe
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by Christophe » 04/05/08, 09:53

Yes the raw material is obviously more expensive but in the end, counting the load-bearing walls + cladding + wall insulation + installation, it is generally cheaper (and faster) to build in aerated concrete... And conventional insulations do not have the "breathability" of Ytong ...

It has been more than a year that we have lived in a house in Ytong and the only drawback that I see (for the moment) is that it is brittle where there is no finish coating. It can be annoying.
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elephant
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by elephant » 04/05/08, 19:12

Targol said:

breaking into the chainsaw is not an admissible argument. In the southwest, all the subdivisions are made of hollow terracotta bricks: you can very easily smash this type of wall with a hammer without making too much noise (at least by making less noise than with a chainsaw).


well, this argument is quite light because most alarm systems are volumetric, except of course if you come across someone like one of my clients who had their installation carried out entirely by contact with acoustic breakage detectors. glass notwithstanding our opinion. Well, we warned him of the risk he would run, too bad for him.

What I also criticize about these walls is the load limit of the anchors. If you want shelves to place heavy loads, it is advantageous to put self-supporting shelves : Cheesy:

on the other hand the work of capping is quite economical
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by Christophe » 04/05/08, 19:35

uh : Shock: : Shock: I had not read this "passage" ... it's not easier to break a window (even double glazing) ... than to "cut off" a wall ... : Cheesy: : Cheesy: : Cheesy:

In addition, finish done, there is NO way to see if the structure is in Ytong or in another material ... Am I wrong?
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elephant
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by elephant » 05/05/08, 11:53

Bof, if you followed the site, or if the wall has suffered damage.
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elephant Supreme Honorary éconologue PCQ ..... I'm too cautious, not rich enough and too lazy to really save the CO2! http://www.caroloo.be

 


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