attic insulation quotes

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dedeleco
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by dedeleco » 14/06/10, 14:31

Outside the attic, how thick is the house?
worse or better?


Often the old houses have the roofs reinforced in insulation (15 cm in the roofs easy) but the rest unchanged, as in 1974 we put 2cm of polystyrene in my walls, very insufficient, even 5cm in 1980, and it is impossible to change without redo the entire interior.
So insulate the attic much better without insulating the walls and the rest of the house at the same level, is quite illusory given the surface area ratio !!
Often, the parts under the sloping roof inaccessible, not visible without depositing the tiles, at the edge of the attic are very poorly insulated, even deteriorated, and in fact to be insulated first!
Also, without insulating the rest of the house in this case, the only insulation of the attic, easy, provides only a small gain on the heating bill.

I'm talking about the case of one of my similar houses with this problem !!
The gain is in the change of the ratio of the thicknesses insulation of the walls on that of the attic, before less after, multiplied by the ratio attic surface on all the remaining surface of the house (walls, pitched roof, thermal bridges, ground floor floor , counting half, etc.)
Or, for my 1974 house, concretely, 2cm polystyrene with bricks, at equal pitch 4cm of polystyrene, on 15cm roof space before which becomes 4cm on 30cm, after insulation, on a surface of 50m2 compared to a surface of walls of 200mXNUM / 2 because 1 large gables and 4m2 of floors) either (4 / 15-4 / 30) x1 / 4 at the surface = 0,033 or 3% to 4% !!
So on 1700 € annual heating bill you will earn 0,33x1700 = 56,1 € ar year !! for 2000 € investment depreciation in 2000 / 56 = 35ans !!

On the contrary, checking the inaccessible insulation holes under the tiles at the edge of the attic is much more profitable !!

First, look for large losses, destroyed insulation under the roof, or elsewhere, or even damp, drafts, etc.
A high performance insulation must be comprehensive without the slightest defect (even drafts) which quickly destroys the usefulness of the rest of the high performance insulation.
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dodo
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Registration: 16/01/10, 22:47




by dodo » 14/06/10, 22:50

dedeleco wrote:Outside the attic, how thick is the house?
worse or better?


Often the old houses have the roofs reinforced in insulation (15 cm in the roofs easy) but the rest unchanged, as in 1974 we put 2cm of polystyrene in my walls, very insufficient, even 5cm in 1980, and it is impossible to change without redo the entire interior.
So insulate the attic much better without insulating the walls and the rest of the house at the same level, is quite illusory given the surface area ratio !!
Often, the parts under the sloping roof inaccessible, not visible without depositing the tiles, at the edge of the attic are very poorly insulated, even deteriorated, and in fact to be insulated first!
Also, without insulating the rest of the house in this case, the only insulation of the attic, easy, provides only a small gain on the heating bill.

I'm talking about the case of one of my similar houses with this problem !!
The gain is in the change of the ratio of the thicknesses insulation of the walls on that of the attic, before less after, multiplied by the ratio attic surface on all the remaining surface of the house (walls, pitched roof, thermal bridges, ground floor floor , counting half, etc.)
Or, for my 1974 house, concretely, 2cm polystyrene with bricks, at equal pitch 4cm of polystyrene, on 15cm roof space before which becomes 4cm on 30cm, after insulation, on a surface of 50m2 compared to a surface of walls of 200mXNUM / 2 because 1 large gables and 4m2 of floors) either (4 / 15-4 / 30) x1 / 4 at the surface = 0,033 or 3% to 4% !!
So on 1700 € annual heating bill you will earn 0,33x1700 = 56,1 € ar year !! for 2000 € investment depreciation in 2000 / 56 = 35ans !!

On the contrary, checking the inaccessible insulation holes under the tiles at the edge of the attic is much more profitable !!

First, look for large losses, destroyed insulation under the roof, or elsewhere, or even damp, drafts, etc.
A high performance insulation must be comprehensive without the slightest defect (even drafts) which quickly destroys the usefulness of the rest of the high performance insulation.



I have a little trouble keeping up with this type of calculation.
It is clear that in this hypothesis I will end up with 30 cm of insulation in the attic and 7cm in the walls.

but hey you have to start with something.
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dedeleco
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by dedeleco » 15/06/10, 00:02

In the isolation without assessment of the balance sheet, if we have a little trouble with the calculations, we often do by imitation of the neighbors and it is not essential to do to gain in isolation, even almost useless, with the direct sellers who tell a little anything and who hide essential points, trying to sell their merchandise which brings them a lot of money, not caring about the real needs of the customer !!!!
How much do you spend on heating per year?
What are the surfaces you have of walls, gables, floors, windows, 7cm of insulation (drywall?) Corresponds to the years 80 to 90, ??? Was it for electric or gas ???
The main thing, before calculations, is to identify serious insulation faults, under damaged or damp roofs that are difficult to access, thermal bridges, leaks, and to have uniform insulation without holes, real thermal leaks etc ... !!!! !
If everything is isolated at 30cm (rather outside the walls)) you win 30 / 7 = 4 times, either division by 4 of heating expenses and your roof space alone from 15 to 30cm, make win that 5 to 6% next the calculation made for insulation 4cm by replacing 4 by 7 !! Double glazing saves 7% except in special cases with large windows !!
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dodo
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Registration: 16/01/10, 22:47




by dodo » 15/06/10, 10:04

dedeleco wrote:In the isolation without assessment of the balance sheet, if we have a little trouble with the calculations, we often do by imitation of the neighbors and it is not essential to do to gain in isolation, even almost useless, with the direct sellers who tell a little anything and who hide essential points, trying to sell their merchandise which brings them a lot of money, not caring about the real needs of the customer !!!!
How much do you spend on heating per year?
What are the surfaces you have of walls, gables, floors, windows, 7cm of insulation (drywall?) Corresponds to the years 80 to 90, ??? Was it for electric or gas ???
The main thing, before calculations, is to identify serious insulation faults, under damaged or damp roofs that are difficult to access, thermal bridges, leaks, and to have uniform insulation without holes, real thermal leaks etc ... !!!! !
If everything is isolated at 30cm (rather outside the walls)) you win 30 / 7 = 4 times, either division by 4 of heating expenses and your roof space alone from 15 to 30cm, make win that 5 to 6% next the calculation made for insulation 4cm by replacing 4 by 7 !! Double glazing saves 7% except in special cases with large windows !!


ha my opinion nothing that the retractable staircase it is already a super thermal bridge.


In short, it's really not easy when you're not in the business, especially when you have a house that is already isolated but not enough. :frown:

https://www.econologie.com/forums/conseils-isolation-plancher-de-combles-t9271.html
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dedeleco
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by dedeleco » 15/06/10, 12:47

Anyway, it's really not easy when you're not in the business, especially when you have a house that is already isolated but not enough

There is no choice, we learn the essentials to find our bearings and understand, otherwise we are at the mercy of the sellers and their churns out, who seek to sell what is profitable for them, without worrying about the customer, valid in any domain, house, car, bank, computer, etc ..., especially in our society which seeks the maximum short term return by using human psychology !!!

You have to find the weak points of your insulation.
First, as a benchmark, how much do you spend per year on heating, for living space, house of what year, electric, to sum up the situation.
Did you say that you hardly get to 18 ° C? So where are you leaking?
Insulate the retractable staircase hatch with removable wool 15cm or less harmful polystyrene.
Look under the sloping parts of the roof inaccessible at the edge of the attic by lifting the tiles on the roof the parts with glass wool loose or removed or wet (tiled foliage?), Etc.,.
I speak from my personal experience, it is essential to be able to go on its roof and to inspect each tile and the wool below !!!!!!!. Much more than doubling the insulation of the accessible part of the attic from 15 to 30cm !!
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Christophe
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by Christophe » 15/06/10, 12:50

To answer the initial question a bit, I think the price is good ... if the job is well done obviously and there are no hidden costs!

Ah damn I had not made the connection with the other subject of dodo: https://www.econologie.com/forums/conseils-i ... t9271.html
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scince
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by scince » 15/06/10, 22:59

dedeleco wrote:Was it for electric or gas ???


It looks like nothing is a good question !!! to link with the year of construction of the house !!!

dedeleco wrote:removable wool or less harmful polystyrene


By cons it surprises me, less harmful to the pose may be? you can teach me more

always too curious
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dodo
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by dodo » 16/06/10, 07:36

the year is 1978 for 110 m2, yes there is a lot of air flow we cut the vmc we will see now and it's electric it takes 1500 euros per year.

I'm going to have a thermography done to see where the heat loss is, to see if the insulation of the attic is judicious because it still dates back to 30 years.
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dodo
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by dodo » 22/06/10, 10:10

Christophe wrote:To answer the initial question a bit, I think the price is good ... if the job is well done obviously and there are no hidden costs!

Ah damn I had not made the connection with the other subject of dodo: https://www.econologie.com/forums/conseils-i ... t9271.html


ultimately it is not 50 m2 but just 36 m2
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dedeleco
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by dedeleco » 22/06/10, 13:52

dedeleco wrote:
removable wool or less harmful polystyrene


By cons it surprises me, less harmful to the pose may be? you can teach me more

yes to the installation but behind the plasterboard the polystyrene is really not very harmful, much less than the agglomerated wooden furniture which stinks of formaldehyde and which we all have !!!!.
Except in the event of an intense fire, but the polyurethane seems to me the same in this case.

some references :
http://www.inrs.fr/inrs-pub/inrs01.nsf/ ... /Visu.html
http://www.isolation-chanvre-vendee.com ... olants.php
http://www.commentfaiton.com/fiche/voir ... ler-un-sol
radioactive waste in Isover glass wool
http://www.thermofloc-benelux.com/forum ... isover.php

http://www.thermofloc-benelux.com/forum ... igenes.php

Tips and Cautions

* The brown part of the glass wool should be facing up. If you put it upside down it will be of no use to you.

Ask for help to position the insulation in difficult places.
* Glass wool cuts and irritates the skin. So cover up well (long sleeve t-shirt and pants) before handling and put on gloves.

The dust released by glass wool is very volatile and harmful to the respiratory tract, you should always wear a mask and goggles when handling it.


However, the installers do this only very rarely !!!
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