wood boiler and power failure

[Cuicui]

The circulator at the stop makes a little resistance

The resistance of the circulator is indeed minimal and does not prevent the thermosiphon.

On the other hand, seeing an installer at work, I was surprised that he did not respect the slopes.
His answer: no need for a slope since the circulator runs all the time!
However, a slope is necessary not only for the thermosiphon, but also to eliminate the air and be able to drain if necessary.

[Did67]

The resistance of the circulator is indeed minimal and does not prevent the thermosiphon.

On the other hand, seeing an installer at work, I was surprised that he did not respect the slopes.
His answer: no need for a slope since the circulator runs all the time!
However, a slope is necessary not only for the thermosiphon, but also to eliminate the air and be able to drain if necessary.

OKAY.

That said, I think it also depends on the stage of combustion: a fully loaded boiler, it burns down, cuts ... Will the thermosyphon (in an installation designed with a circulator) be enough ??? That was the question of ours forumeur (and his concern). Me, I do not know. If there is a circulator, it's not fun to waste electricity. This is because the thermosyphon is not enough in normal operation. No ? And if it is not enough, the boiler will be hot without? No ? Especially since the circulator will still be a little more resistance, instead of helping!

So, I refrain from answering our friend.

[Rabbit]

There is only one way to know.

Must fully load the boiler.
And once it heats up properly.
cut the current and check the circuit pressure.
He will quickly know what to expect in the event of a power failure.
It’s actually very reassuring to have this experience, because
any time we can turn on the power.
modify the installation to correct a problem
This will not be the case during a power failure.

So, I refrain from answering our friend.

Why is that ?
He is an adult and responsible. We answer his questions at
best of our knowledge. It is up to him to sort out and assume his
decisions.

[foxmk]

Yes, don't worry, I'm an adult!
I don't need to test! I know from experience that the thermosiphon does not absorb all the energy and therefore my boiler returns to overheating! (I'm sure!) It's a very old boiler dating from 1985 and the case has already happened.
What I want to know is if on a recent (new) boiler with reverse combustion if the fact that the fan that activates combustion stops, is that enough to slow combustion enough for it to n is there any overheating?
In addition, in the case of ordinary combustion, the thermostat valve must close, does it completely stop the fire to the point of causing it to die or is there any chance of this happening ?
And finally, what risks for the house and what risks for the boiler?
Thanks again.

[Surfeurseb]

I have a reverse combustion boiler, Unical turbo2.
If there is a power cut, the fan can no longer supply the fireplace with air, and therefore it remains "in the incubator": as when the boiler is paused.
On this type of boiler, the operation is all or nothing: if the need for calories, then the fan is on, forces combustion down. As soon as the temperature is reached, the fan stops, the boiler is paused until the next call from the thermostat.

Absolutely no risk with a power failure, especially since there is also a safety valve with cold water supply, if the thermostat does not work properly.

[foxmk]

Absolutely "no risk" does that mean you've already tested?
I was told that the "reloading" of cold water in the boiler was very harmful for it, that it damaged it a lot? Is it true ?
Anyway thank you for your reply !

[Surfeurseb]

For 3 years that I use it, it has already happened: the problem is rather that the boiler turns off completely.

When I want to intervene on it, I only have to cut the power, and wait for the embers to cool.

In some cases, the boiler may rise higher than the temperature setpoint: for example, during a storm, the draft is too great if the bypass valve does not open (glued by the bister).
As soon as the temperature reaches more than 90 ° C, the valve opens and lets the cold water cool the boiler: it happened only once for me.

The biggest risk with a wood-fired boiler is the very rapid fouling of the duct, followed by the "chimney fire".
Considering the quantity of wood consumed, I turn to one sweeping per month, because I have already had "heat" with the start of a fire: duct turned bright red at the boiler outlet, rumbling, so strong air suction that it lifts the air supply valve.
In this case, a solution: caulk all air intakes and wait until it stops! I have already given...

[trpcinema]

hello .. fortunately there are pros to think of all this

it sells an eco-inverter at Bouilleurs de France

http://www.bouilleur.fr

10 year warranty, 21 hours of autonomy with a circulator of 40 w of consumption.
I am not called enough to explain everything to you but I have one at home and it works .. and precisely the strong point is that it only starts up in the event of a power cut .. or fuse that blows unlike a typical inverter on the computer's power supply, and it can heat the radiators no matter what.
cordially

[Did67]

The biggest risk with a wood-fired boiler is the very rapid fouling of the duct, followed by the "chimney fire".
Considering the quantity of wood consumed, I turn to one sweeping per month, because I have already had "heat" with the start of a fire: duct turned bright red at the boiler outlet, rumbling, so strong air suction that it lifts the air supply valve.
In this case, a solution: caulk all air intakes and wait until it stops! I have already given...

I also experienced this with a stove at my parents' house: totally agree! By far the first risk. And spectacular: at night, the flames and spiers coming out of the chimney !!!

If the chimney is well designed, that it does not pass right next to a wooden frame, that no partition made of plywood or other flammable material has been placed near, effectively, especially do nothing and close all the prints to slow combustion ... Everything will be fine and the duct will be nickel upon arrival ...

[dedeleco]

When we get to the rifle fire, we made a lot of basic physics mistakes, like not sweeping enough, or poorly swept, not having a complete efficient combustion, without heat exchanger where we see the deposit of soot, by burning green wood or full of water, not dry at all, just pine cut, without testing the soot from its chimney, or twisted chimney with horizontal, descending zones, or variable or too cold section, allowing storage and deposition of soot that is too fast and almost irremovable by sweeping.
Without huge errors, we sweep every 3 to 6 months by testing the accumulation of soot, shaking the outlet of the chimney or looking at the soot in the exchanger.

If one lives in the anxiety of the chimney fire, there are gigantic errors !!
Some pros don't care about mistakes, with their cash cow clients.

The chimney fire comes under firefighters in emergency !!
See what they recommend to put out (google or other, water extinguisher, no air).