Self-construction bioclimatic house in wood frame

[phil12]

Good evening,

Like arielcastor.

And also when you have a Mob, no wood storage near and under the MB, especially in a damp place and in the shade >> for xilos of all kinds!

[I Citro]

I join me too aerialcastor, inertia is an imperative imperative of a perfect insulation, free from thermal bridges.

A concrete trap remains a classic solution but its implementation must be rigorous to isolate it from the outside and remove thermal bridges.

The interior wall with inertia brick or mud (good hygrometry regulator), even a mass stove (but it's expensive) is a more orthodox solution.

For such a project, aiming at the passive house is not more expensive because it is not the materials that are the obstacle, but their implementation ...

Finally, the project must be organized with rigor because time is money ... a lot of money ... We know how to build such a house in 48H (excluding foundations).

[bham]

Sorry but I can not advise you this solution, because you will have no inertia so you will not be able to:
- ensure summer comfort. The best strategy is to have a large heat capacity inside the insulated envelope. In simple it is necessary a house isolated by the outside with heavy materials (concrete, earthenware or raw, stone, ....) inside. As a nocturnal super-ventilation can store the freshness in the walls and enjoy this freshness day. He also see that the greater the exchange surface, the more efficient it is, hence the interest of heavy partitions.
-store the solar contributions, and there is even more worth talking about bioclimatic house, because it is still the basis.

But nothing prevents it from putting an interior heavy partition in line with a series of piles. He may even consider putting a concrete link or a metal beam I or H under this partition, which will distribute the masses and over its wooden floor beams.
And then for the inertia simply opt for high density insulation, wood wool, cellulose wadding.
Storage from underneath is not a bad idea, for cars or even for firewood. Because in my opinion, it is better to go on a douglas pine construction that is resistant to fungi and insects: it is class 3 naturally (in its pink part, not in the sapwood)

[aerialcastor]

And then for the inertia simply opt for high density insulation, wood wool, cellulose wadding.

One must not confuse inertia and dephasing.

The thermal inertia will never be provided by an insulator.
Thermal inertia is characterized by the possibility that a material to be able to store heat. It depends, of course, on the heat capacity, but also the thermal conductivity, so that the material stores the heat, it is necessary that the heat can penetrate quickly in this one, and of the density, because the m3 are limited in a house. And to be able to compare this easily we use the emissivity which is calculated by b = square root of (lambda * rho (density) * c (thermal capacity) and that is measured in Wsqrt (s) / m²K)

The emissivity of concrete and 2000, that of an insulator close to 0. And yes how to store heat, if it does not penetrate the heart of the material (which is the role of the insulator).

On the other hand heavy insulators (I say heavy compared to standard insulators, because it is still light because it is the air that insulates) brings phase shift. That is to say that the heat wave takes longer to pass through the insulation, the ideal is to have 12h phase shift. This is a good ally for summer comfort, especially for the roof where it is often difficult to have inertia.
But that does not replace inertia. In a well insulated house, and with sunscreen, the main contributions of heat in summer are the internal inputs (metabolism and appliances) and also the inevitable times when we will open the door and bring air to 35 ° C . And there the lagging envelope is useless alone inertia can save us.
A heavy partition will never replace the 400kg / m² of a slab.
Moreover, in hot regions, it is insulated under the slab than at the periphery, which makes it possible to "keep" contact with the ground and to benefit from its inertia. After that, it may not be that hot in the Gard, and a large cross-wall with cinder block mounted upside down and filled with earth may be sufficient.
But to make the right decision, there is a moment when you have to do a dynamic thermal simulation.

[syncro44]

Hello to you


for the northern Gard region it's not that hot
so I'm looking for inertia for the winter rather than cool summer with a veranda greenhouse south side to curb the entry of the sun in the summer but keep its heat in the winter

I also thought of heating a wood and build a mass around (terracotta home my wife is a potter) and he defusement the heat around him as I thought (for now we think a lot ) build the faceted house (yurt way) around it and make a coil for hot water winter in or behind the terracotta

for the floor I will still think about all your solutions although I would like to hurry the concrete
but if it's the best I would go there

A + and thank you

[bham]

And then for the inertia simply opt for high density insulation, wood wool, cellulose wadding.

One must not confuse inertia and dephasing.

Yes, well, you're right. Despite this, a dense insulation, due to its significant phase shift, will indirectly contribute to the inertia of the house.

[aerialcastor]

Still not agree ...
The phase shift contributes to summer comfort because it prevents the heat wave from crossing the wall too quickly. Thus, the heat arrives in the house 12h after, that is to say when the outside temperature has dropped well, one can thus surventiler to ensure the refreshment.

In no case does it participate in the inertia of the house since it can not store energy.

That's why even a house with a super insulating and de-phasing envelope that has no inertia can not ensure a good summer comfort. There will always be internal inputs, and if there is no place to store them, the rise in internal temperature will be immediate.
While in a house with inertia, the house takes care of the day, but the temperature varies little, and discharges at night thanks to an over-ventilation. It is the same principle with winter solar gains, if we can not store them we undergo overheating.

[bham]

Yes all right because you think summer phase shift but you can also see the phase shift on the inside, in that it will delay the heat transfer from the inside to the outside in winter. In this sense he participates in the inertia of the building.
Still disagree?

[aerialcastor]

Still disagree?

Won
But I think it's just a word problem. It is about 2 different notions (and that can be related, because we can say that the inertia brings a phase shift, but not the opposite), which each have their definition.


Thermal inertia is the ability to store energy.
http://www.ecosources.info/dossiers/Inertie_thermique

The phase shift is the time that the heat wave has passed through the materials
http://www.logiconfor.fr/definitions/diffusivite-thermique-dephasage-a.htm

So no inertia can not be brought with the insulators.

[bham]

Still disagree?

Won
But I think it's just a word problem. It is about 2 different notions (and that can be related, because we can say that the inertia brings a phase shift, but not the opposite), which each have their definition.

Nevermind