Vegetable oil burner boiler ball

[upmert]

I would try the other burner because I have two identical, I do not touch the one for now because it works well and it 's winter.

[Other]

Hello

I have the same ball since the 1980s, no problem with plugging the slot it takes an air filter and decanter at the outlet of the compressor the air must be clean.
the burner is stopped by a solenoid valve the oil continues to flow for a certain time (it is not this oil which blocks the slit) the slit must not be too narrow from 0.006 "to 0.008" the wider it will give more air to the burner but it is not an inconvenient, The ball must be polished it is practically the only operations that I do once a year, and cleaning of the oil filter.
On the other hand, the internal nozzle becomes dirty if adjusting too rich or poor quality oil, the spray spray coming out of the ball must be centered in the nozzle, an easily removable nozzle allows rapid cleaning (mine is just inserted into the duct)
if use of pulsed combustion air there is an advantage of sending it through an annular slot internal to the nozzle that avoids deposits of blackened scale, well a small deposit if the nozzle is red it protects it thermally and it does not increase in thickness.
I plan to make a slightly conical venturian style nozzle to let the flame spread.
The correct function is not at the level of the ball and the slot but in the nozzles, dimensioning and the place where the combustion air is allowed to enter. In the rear of the ball very little air just after the spraying is where the combustion air should enter if possible parallel to the internal diameter of the nozzle.
If you want to go up in temperature preheat the combustion air
it's good for melting copper but the nozzles don't last long, in my early days I tested a Graphite nozzle made from a piece of steel arc furnace electrode, it resists well at high temperatures but in the summer off period it tends to crumble.
For a domestic heating preferable to be maintained just at temperatures melting point of copper (easy to verify just present a copper wire in the flame it must melt.

Andre

[upmert]

Here is the result with 12 working days

[jonule]

hello to you upmert,

I see your big tube around your small tube, is it good for harvesting the excess oil falling?

I am thinking of the blue flame bruileur that I have built since this forum : would you try to make holes on this big tube, so that the air (unburnt) of the combustion chamber of your boiler comes to burn there?
not at the bottom of course not for the oil to flow, but around the perimeter?

I think it can work but it should perhaps be the oil burner turbulator that you removed, to put back at the input of your little tube?
or with a vortex WITH?

imagine the blue flame in oil

well to you, and well done

[upmert]

hi to you jonule,
yes it is good to collect the surplus oil, and to keep the burner in the boiler.
for the tubulator I did the test but it gets dirty and I don't have a nice flame.
on the other hand I did not test with AVEC I would do that in the spring.

otherwise consumption around 12 liters per day with hot water production

[the boulle]

Great,

this model there, leave it as its !!, try your hand on your 2nd, I congratulate you, very few people can achieve such a result!



maybe try to chamfer at 45 ° your stainless steel tube (from the inside to the outside) so that the last unbaked does not stick ...

[jonule]

for the turbulator or vortex, I experienced it for the blue flame burner on fuel oil, the secret is to find the right distance between the turbulator and the nozzle!
the more you bring them closer and + you force the blown air to be under pressure, this is one of the goals.

well you will tell me it's probably zero with the oil burner since there is no air used from the burner blower ?! ah well yes so even the vortex has no interest ... i imagine that you block the air intake from the burner?

...

on the other hand for the re-circulation of gases (unburnt) by the burner / nozzle I think it works, in addition it should raise the t ° C of the nozzle assembly, so it's beneficial ?!

I see how the blue flame burners are made they are like yours: a small tube in a large tube, the small held by flanges as you do, the large simply drilled at its base with holes for re-circulation in the boiler body!


at worst if your holes do not suit you you can re-plug them with a simple serflex, but if I got there I do not care for you; =)

[upmert]

Hello ,
the ventilation of my burner and original and slightly open (because closed it clogs faster) and the air intake is not blocked.
the hardest thing to set is the distance between the ball and the inner tube and the oil supply to the ball.
no breakdown for 45 days
after the holidays i would test the other burner.
it will take me time because I have some ideas for improvement.
otherwise I have a friend who will come and give me flame temperature measurements and smoke analysis.
I will keep you informed as soon as I have the results.
Happy New Year

[the boulle]

Great!

happy holidays to you too!

[upmert]

Best wishes to you all,
32 days of operation in full auto it starts to get dirty