Need advice on Ventilation & Insulation of our house

[Avogadron]

Hello everyone !
We encounter some problems with insulation and ventilation in our house. I post here to find solutions that will be economical, ecological and sustainable.

-Summer in the upper rooms it makes an unbearable heat. In winter the heating works at full speed!
-The attic seems poorly insulated.

-Our windows have no opening to let air in, they are sliding and made of PVC.

-We have mold on the northeast side, mainly located in the corners of the walls exposed to the outside. The cleaning of the walls was done, I could not leave this with an 18 month old child and my pregnant wife ...

- Chance unlikely, we discovered a very slight runoff from the roof inside the attic at the level of the red bricks. In the same place molds appear on the lower levels.

-Finally, we have openings in the kitchen and the bathrooms but they are natural, absence of VMC, we can see the conduits in the attic.

I inquired at the town hall to know if there were aids for insulation etc ...
They just said that maybe you need to call the insurance for the roof, for the rest no help.
I searched a bit and came across the ANAH grants but I don't know if it is appropriate and how it works.
I imagine that there will also be the possibility of making tax reductions by involving a professional.

QUESTIONS :
1.We are thinking of installing a VMC but is it compatible with our current ducts?
2.Change the large glass blocks of the staircase (request to the Town Hall already in progress) to allow more effective ventilation of the top of the house with a more suitable window.
3. Make work on the roof.
4. Make the insulation (can it be a flocking?) In the attic.
5. Redo the paintings.

Suffice to say that we could have it for a fairly expensive price when we plan to rent part of this property which we share in joint possession to go and live in the countryside, so there will still be some development work to do which could compromise everything! This is why I explain our situation to listen to any good advice.
Thank you to all of you !

[Grosi]

Hello,
I do not know if you have already found the answers you were looking for, but I will try to direct you a little.
First, obviously, expect a big job. Understand that, as a general rule, insulation problems are a tangle of causes and consequences in cascade, and that it is rare that one problem is solved without aggravating another. For example, high-performance insulation will increase the risk of molds without CMV ... On the other hand, effective insulating materials in the attic can be sensitive to humidity, etc.


Let us attack directly with the aid: indeed, you can benefit from the aid of the ANAH, subject to means. In Île de France, if that is your region, you are considered a "very modest" household if your income does not exceed € 34 per year for 906, and "modest" up to € 3. Aid for works in these cases is respectively 42% and 495%, up to a limit of 50 for major works. In the case of work allowing a significant reduction in your energy consumption, there is an additional premium, again calculated on the basis of your income, up to a maximum of € 35 and € 25 respectively. As you can see, this is a huge help.

Whether or not you are eligible for these aids, be aware that there are other devices to help you renovate:
- Zero rate eco loan (ECO PTZ). This loan is granted without means test, up to a limit of € 30 and for a maximum duration of 000 years. Whatever the amount of your project, I strongly encourage you to turn to the loan, rather than to draw from your reserves.
-If you are taxable, you can also benefit from a tax credit which, luckily, has recently been cumulative with the ECO PTZ. This Energy Transition Tax Credit (CITE, formerly CIDD), allows you to deduct from your taxes up to 30% of the amount of expenses (excluding labor), i.e. materials, up to a limit of 16 € for a couple + 000 € per child.
- Energy premiums, financed by Energy Saving Certificates (CEE). In short, the State obliges energy suppliers (EDF, Total, GRDF, Engie, etc.) to encourage households to save energy, with targets, under penalty of any penalty for any Kwh not saved. Suppliers can delegate this charge to other companies, which can be remunerated (although it is not a remuneration but a bonus) via presentation of an EWC proving the savings made. This premium is generally partly collected by the company, and the rest redistributed to the customer. Thus, the more efficient and heavy the renovation, the higher the premium, which can reach several thousand euros depending on the market price of the EEC.

You see, if the steps can be boring, it is quite possible to carry out work at a lower cost. Please note, however: these aids are all conditional on carrying out work to achieve minimum thermal performance. And even if you decide to do without it, the law requires in the case of important works to respect certain minimum thresholds. An article identifies these thresholds here. Also, you will have to go through certified craftsmen recognized as environmental guarantors (RGE).

Finally, concerning the works, without being experts of the solutions to bring, I think that the most important is first to have the roof waterproofed, and at the same time take advantage of it to insulate. Flocking, or blowing, cellulose wadding can indeed be a solution, but beware: if you are hot in the attic, cellulose wadding is not the material with the best thermal inertia. Second, take into account the weight that your high floor can support. The materials exhibiting good inertia are heavy, dense materials, but which may therefore be less insulating, and above all will not hold on to simple ba13. For example, dense wood wool panels are best for thermal inertia, but have high conductivity (compared to cellulose wadding or rock wool). Then the price will be higher for natural materials, but not really. There are actually many so-called eco-friendly materials (cellulose wadding is one of them) but which often contain polyester to prevent compaction, and other additives to flame retardant or protect them from rodents. The best in general is to carry out in the attic a double insulation, between crawlers for inertia with heavy materials and a layer on the floor lighter but thick for thermal resistance, in cellulose wadding for example.

Finally, and I'll be finished (well, don't be angry with me I try to be exhaustive ), take into account that your insulation is a whole. So your question regarding CMV is not the right one. You WILL have to ask for a CMV, compatibility being only a question of money in the end, and does not represent large expenses compared to the rest. Remember that if you plan to improve the thermal performance of your home, you have to think of all the walls. If the attic is insulated, but not the walls or windows, you will still lose heat, and your return on investment will be longer.
Try to go see here possibly what an Energy Performance Diagnosis gives for your house, and what the work would cost you.

I hope I have helped you a little.

Sincerely,

[LOGIC12]

hello, the first thing to see is the roof. It looks like there are leaks. Run a roofer over to see if he can fix it at least temporarily.

If the roof is 50 years old, it may have to be redone. In this case, you can insulate under the tiles, but for that you need a batten and it seems that it is not there.

It would be useless to isolate if there are leaks, because the glass wool would take on water.


For the rooms, it seems that this house was built before the insulation, so the walls were not insulated and cold, which means that the humidity in the air tends to condense there.

You have to clean it all up and scrape it well. There are anti mold products to spray. Then, you should apply an anti-mold paint at least two coats. There are some that are not very expensive sometimes in Lidl. But you need to ventilate often in a draft for better air renewal.

Sliding windows, some are leaky, others are a little better. But without VMC which sucks, the air hardly passes.

Don't you have an extractor hood (the one that blows the air outside)? If yes, you can make it work for a while, the time that you successively open each window of the rooms (one at a time) and this for at least 5 minutes for each open window only and interior doors open; You should do this twice a day. it would renew the air.

For VMC, it is installed in the attic and it is hung on the frame (to avoid vibrations) You could probably use one of the existing outlets, but avoiding 90 ° elbows And you need a suction mouth in the kitchen, one in the bathroom, and one in the WC (WC cell can be reduced, because the needs are less than in the kitchen or the SB.

Interior doors must be shortened by approximately 12 to 15 mm to allow air to circulate.
That said, a CMV does not exempt from ventilating a little all the same.
For the question of air vents on windows, since they are a little less airtight you can try this, and if you see that this is not enough, have a ventilation on the window furthest from the extractions.
Be careful not to leave the bathroom door open after the shower otherwise you will spread the steam in the housing which promotes condensation. If this room has a window, open it widely, at least for a good hour, even in winter to vent the steam. To activate the movement, you can operate a simple fan in the room while the window is open, the steam will be evacuated much more quickly.