Bonjour à tous
I want to continue my work to improve insulation.
Here is the structure of the house:
Ground floor:
1 part frame with wood floor above.
- Floor: I do not know what is underneath but not reportable because no access.
- Walls: glass wool 7cm
- Ceiling: because nothing floor above
- A door single-glazed window
- A single-glazed window
Cellular concrete part:
- Walls : 20 cm cellular concrete without insulation
- Floor + parquet wood 22mm uninsulated crawl space ventilated
- A single-glazed window
- A door double glazed window
- Lost Attic with tissue paper 20cm
The 2 parts have approximately the same floor area of the ground floor.
Floor attic:
- Only 10cm glass wool, not easily modifiable
-> According to you, by or could I earn the most at present?
Personally, I thought adding a thickness in the walls that currently have that 7,5cm glass wool of the wood frame part. Adding on top of the wood fiber for example.
After I thought the windows. Knowing that they are relatively well sealed, and I put in a more heat-shrink film thereon so no cold feeling the first tile.
So I have a doubt about the real savings compared to the cost.
For the roof, add panels wood wool 4cm by outside after curl because it is still a lot of space between the glass wool and the battens.
What do you think ?
Improving my isolation
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- Grand Econologue
- posts: 848
- Registration: 19/11/09, 13:24
Hmm, quite frankly seems that building a collection of odds and ends: the worst is obviously the single glazed windows, a real vacuum in calories, but given the heterogeneity of the building it must be full of thermal bridges and probably ... as poor sealing and glass wool for walls 7cm this is put in a garden shed ... and ventilation? no VMC I guess ...
Where to start? complicated...
Where to start? complicated...
0 x
personal reactions
My first reaction is to isolate areas where there is nothing before those with 7 cm glass or 10cm wool. Also be cut leakage through doors or windows or uncontrolled vents.
Indeed without isolation losses are very roughly 14 times those of glass wool or 7cm 20 times with 10cm to the same surface. (We can discuss it because the precise nature of your walls can change the value).
I first isolerais aerated concrete either outside or inside with polystyrene on plasterboard max thickness (compatible with reducing the size of this part) (I will seek the value of the equivalent cellular concrete wool of glass), then the floor with 10 cm if possible. Even the non-reportable floor becomes the applicant and then relaxing or possibly by drilling holes observation to see what's underneath (condensation which eventually rot the floor !!) and try to inject a few holes, non-hygroscopic type of fiber rock wool to insulate better.
Many houses of 80 and 90 years 7 merely polystyrene or glass wool 10cm and so it is livable.
The standards will impose on after 2010 25 new homes or 30cm to be 3 4 times fewer losses but to a very high blow and not so justified for my selfish point of view when I compare heating of the economy (reducing its cost to zero) relative to other fixed expenses on my house and residential property taxes (not to mention the income tax) that are 3 both heating !!!
The attic look good to me and do not overwhelm the space between the glass wool and tiles because then condensing the vapors of these any more broken tiles (more space) will flow into the glass wool instead of go back to the atmosphere through the cracks and ventilation tiles.
A wet glass wool insulation is no longer but a cold conductor like water which contains !!!
Also this wet glass wool dries very slowly, a few seconds for the wet and dry week without ventilation it will be wet all winter! Fundamental.
At the moment I see my neighbor to redo all his roof emmitouflant whole house in a sealing layer (to protect against broken tiles) forgetting what ventilation and condensation problem on this virtually sealing against the glass wool of the roof!!!
After he asked why after he spends more heating than before !!!
With walls and roof insulation, it must scrupulously respect the rules against condensation: vapor barrier hot side and sufficient ventilation space. We see all new roofs with one or two tiny vents, absurd !!
When I see the natural condensation on a watertight roof (tole a shack uninhabited garden without steam source), I concretely measure the importance of respecting this rule.
Indeed without isolation losses are very roughly 14 times those of glass wool or 7cm 20 times with 10cm to the same surface. (We can discuss it because the precise nature of your walls can change the value).
I first isolerais aerated concrete either outside or inside with polystyrene on plasterboard max thickness (compatible with reducing the size of this part) (I will seek the value of the equivalent cellular concrete wool of glass), then the floor with 10 cm if possible. Even the non-reportable floor becomes the applicant and then relaxing or possibly by drilling holes observation to see what's underneath (condensation which eventually rot the floor !!) and try to inject a few holes, non-hygroscopic type of fiber rock wool to insulate better.
Many houses of 80 and 90 years 7 merely polystyrene or glass wool 10cm and so it is livable.
The standards will impose on after 2010 25 new homes or 30cm to be 3 4 times fewer losses but to a very high blow and not so justified for my selfish point of view when I compare heating of the economy (reducing its cost to zero) relative to other fixed expenses on my house and residential property taxes (not to mention the income tax) that are 3 both heating !!!
The attic look good to me and do not overwhelm the space between the glass wool and tiles because then condensing the vapors of these any more broken tiles (more space) will flow into the glass wool instead of go back to the atmosphere through the cracks and ventilation tiles.
A wet glass wool insulation is no longer but a cold conductor like water which contains !!!
Also this wet glass wool dries very slowly, a few seconds for the wet and dry week without ventilation it will be wet all winter! Fundamental.
At the moment I see my neighbor to redo all his roof emmitouflant whole house in a sealing layer (to protect against broken tiles) forgetting what ventilation and condensation problem on this virtually sealing against the glass wool of the roof!!!
After he asked why after he spends more heating than before !!!
With walls and roof insulation, it must scrupulously respect the rules against condensation: vapor barrier hot side and sufficient ventilation space. We see all new roofs with one or two tiny vents, absurd !!
When I see the natural condensation on a watertight roof (tole a shack uninhabited garden without steam source), I concretely measure the importance of respecting this rule.
0 x
My first reaction is to isolate areas where there is nothing before those ....
pro Answer
When this is done, it will take steps to improve weaknesses
measurements using a medical thermometer without contact (if you have one) it will allow you to measure all cold spots or you u'il judges are problems
0 x
Thank you for your answers.
The problem with the cellular concrete part is that I have an already small living area.
Add 10cm of insulation "will kill the room".
I thought 20cm cellular concrete without insulation was not so dramatic as that. I have a colleague who has a house of thirty years with that of cellular concrete, no insulation above. (R cell = 0,11 1,85 concrete is in 20cm) With my glass wool 7cm I 1,75.
For the wooden frame floor, I think it is not isolable, because the house seems "placed" on a concrete slab, and there is ventilation from below (slots). Filling in loose insulation will sacrifice that ventilation which I think is essential.
Insulate the floor in the interior is not possible because I already have enough low ceilings (yes I know I have a strange house )
I also ask myself about the isolation of the reportable part from above via the crawlspace. Interest if the other party is not isolated ...
Otherwise on the roof, between glass wool and tiles, there are many 10cm (strips included), which seems to me much?
About cellular concrete mix, wood frame, I also avous I do not really understand ...
To better visualize the house here is a phtro:
Cellular concrete part is the part added with a gentle slope, and ventilated crawl space underneath.
In back, there's the part that date 1984 timber frame.
The problem with the cellular concrete part is that I have an already small living area.
Add 10cm of insulation "will kill the room".
I thought 20cm cellular concrete without insulation was not so dramatic as that. I have a colleague who has a house of thirty years with that of cellular concrete, no insulation above. (R cell = 0,11 1,85 concrete is in 20cm) With my glass wool 7cm I 1,75.
For the wooden frame floor, I think it is not isolable, because the house seems "placed" on a concrete slab, and there is ventilation from below (slots). Filling in loose insulation will sacrifice that ventilation which I think is essential.
Insulate the floor in the interior is not possible because I already have enough low ceilings (yes I know I have a strange house )
I also ask myself about the isolation of the reportable part from above via the crawlspace. Interest if the other party is not isolated ...
Otherwise on the roof, between glass wool and tiles, there are many 10cm (strips included), which seems to me much?
About cellular concrete mix, wood frame, I also avous I do not really understand ...
To better visualize the house here is a phtro:
Cellular concrete part is the part added with a gentle slope, and ventilated crawl space underneath.
In back, there's the part that date 1984 timber frame.
0 x
I've proposed with the steps, you should do so before considering some work
I'm at home, and it is really effective: it can determine
cold spots, drafts, cold paroies (isolate)
take the temperature of the ground glass, ect ...
contactless "thermo-flash" thermometer, it allows you to measure the temperatures of materials - even if it is worth 100 € it will save you unnecessary expenses
and it's cheaper than a diagnosis
have a good day
I'm at home, and it is really effective: it can determine
cold spots, drafts, cold paroies (isolate)
take the temperature of the ground glass, ect ...
contactless "thermo-flash" thermometer, it allows you to measure the temperatures of materials - even if it is worth 100 € it will save you unnecessary expenses
and it's cheaper than a diagnosis
have a good day
0 x
nice house in the countryside
The house is in two parts cute. The concrete slab to the base is a thermal bridge that can be isolated from the outside at the slab in improving the appearance apparently.
The ventilation of the crawl space portion does not need to be very large and can access it from below in this crawl through a hatch?
Indeed it would be possible to isolate the slab from below?
Halve the losses of the floor is interesting if possible in the crawl space ..
Since the roofs quite beyond external insulation is not inconceivable but moving windows and doors is a difficulty.
What are the heating expenses currently, which determines the importance of the losses and the possible gain with better insulation and the depreciation period?
I do not feel that it is so dramatic cellular concrete is close to the glass wool.
If portions as the slabs or floors are not isolated, interest isolate the already much better insulators is low in any case must encrypt carefully to avoid inefficient work.
Finally the fever thermometer with infrared surface to T € 78 is convenient but I'm not sure that corrections emissivity are not necessary, and therefore must be calibrated with another simple thermometer for the different possible surfaces.
One can avoid this expense with a cheap bath thermometer disassembled to apply its bulb against the surface and the insulation of the air in the room a bit with insulation as wool. The measure is longer but also good.
The ventilation of the crawl space portion does not need to be very large and can access it from below in this crawl through a hatch?
Indeed it would be possible to isolate the slab from below?
Halve the losses of the floor is interesting if possible in the crawl space ..
Since the roofs quite beyond external insulation is not inconceivable but moving windows and doors is a difficulty.
What are the heating expenses currently, which determines the importance of the losses and the possible gain with better insulation and the depreciation period?
I do not feel that it is so dramatic cellular concrete is close to the glass wool.
If portions as the slabs or floors are not isolated, interest isolate the already much better insulators is low in any case must encrypt carefully to avoid inefficient work.
Finally the fever thermometer with infrared surface to T € 78 is convenient but I'm not sure that corrections emissivity are not necessary, and therefore must be calibrated with another simple thermometer for the different possible surfaces.
One can avoid this expense with a cheap bath thermometer disassembled to apply its bulb against the surface and the insulation of the air in the room a bit with insulation as wool. The measure is longer but also good.
0 x
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