Help to filter vegetable oil

crude vegetable oil, diester, bio-ethanol or other biofuels, or fuel of vegetable origin ...
the middle
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Help to filter vegetable oil




by the middle » 10/10/08, 09:57

Hello,
Here is the doc provided by Henry.
To read !

https://www.econologie.com/filtration-de ... -3949.html
https://www.econologie.com/filtration-de ... -3950.html

The main information I have selected is that the oil must pass several times in the filter to increase filtration.
It is not a filter that announces 5 micron filtration that a single pass will be enough to eliminate anything greater than 5 microns.
More info will come directly from Henry.
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by the middle » 19/10/08, 21:42

Hello,
Henry, who deals with aid in Africa, knows a bit about the issue of oil filtration ...
One of his things to check if an oil is well filtered, is to take a sample in a glass bottle, to put successively this sample in the freezer, and warm several times. This system makes it possible to precipitate the impurities at the bottom, and to check the quality of the filtration.
After several passages in the hot and cold, if the oil is poorly filtered, there will be a deposit at the bottom of the container.
A word :D
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by carburologue » 24/10/08, 21:12

:!:
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Filtration principle




by henry » 12/11/08, 20:30

Hello to "Just medium" and to the others

I used the framework of my professional activities to work on the filtration of the used vegetable oil of frying, with the help also of many colleagues and friends, all techniques.
Thank you all.

The first idea to demolish is that a 10 μm labeled filter has a filter mesh of 10 μm !!!
Moreover, even if you use a filter with a mesh of 10 μm (taken on the order of a few hundred euros) if a spaghetti is presented with a head of 9 μm and a body of 1 mm, and well it will pass through your filter.
So a name of 10 μm on a common filter is a "legend" of more of our marketing friends.

The actual performance of a filter is defined by its statistical performance.
A type A filter will try to stop a% of particles of sizes 1 μm; b% of particles of sizes 10 μm ...
So for a good performance, one (the?) Solution is to make several passes in the same filter.

After theoretical study and validation in the laboratory, the right ratio of passage / performance is 10 passages.

If your company does not have a microscope to lend you to visualize your oil after filtration, you can achieve a precipitation of the particles by carrying out an accelerated aging. In short, we take a sample of oil, which is placed in the freezer and then at room temperature, and that more than 8 times.

This technique makes it possible to improve the filtration process, until no more black deposits at the bottom of the sample.
: Mrgreen:
At this time the particles are of the order of 1μm and in small quantities.

Here is a first advice.
I'm going to take photos of my filtration plant, as well as my samples. Some are 2 old.
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by jonule » 13/11/08, 10:22

salut;

I am curious to see the insistence of a fineness of filtration, while there is no mention of the link with the T ° C ???

because you're talking about Africa, henry?

because finally 0 ° C 1mm filter will not pass a filtered oil 5 microns before 15 ° C (T ° C and finesse perfect for filtering oil).

then the difference with used oil and new oil?

PS: I filter used oil from + 6 years.

it is certain that the filters are given for their fineness IN AVERAGE, the absolute filtration does not exist ... except perhaps for the stainless steel filters, and still it would be necessary that the particles of the oil are in the form of shpère like you say this which is not the case, it is rather a head of fork (for the tri-glycerides): and all depends like toujorus of the T ° C.

but do not say that a particle of 10μm oil will break an injection pump!

according to the study report on palm oil as fuel, the ideal size of the fuel filter would be 27μm ... but again the T ° C is not mentioned, the engine starting cold and rolling hot, thanks to the fuel heater ... set at what T ° C?

etc... ;-)
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Filtration details




by henry » 13/11/08, 14:37

Hello,

Here are some details.
The main difference between new and used oil is the presence of particles in the latter. Particles are cooking remains.
My primary goal is to filter these particles, before using the oil as fuel.
These particles can generate significant deposits in the injector, injection pump, heater ...
Which in the long run can cause malfunctioning injectors or the injection pump.
The filtration of these particles can be done at low temperature, the passage time will be long, or impossible if the heavy fats are frozen.
To facilitate the filtration I use an electric pump, and I add my oil with the order 10% of gas oil or oil for stove.

The grease particles pose mainly a problem of high viscosity.
This may cause the timing belt or injection pump to rupture.
If you put a really efficient electric heater before the injection pump, a lot of the problems are solved (with sunflower oil).

Good filtration at all. : Mrgreen:
And tried to place a sample of your filtration in the refrigerator.
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by jonule » 13/11/08, 15:54

the cooking remains as you say are mainly starch, which comes from fries, if it cooked french fries!
it is on that we can not compare rolling in French fries oil in winter and roll with palm oil in Africa in full dodger!
the oil will not behave the same.

these particles as you say are normally removed during the preparation by caruant: decantation, then filtration (5μm 15 ° C are sufficient for me); then when using in vehicle idem: tank settling and filtration with fuel fitlre!
I see them poorly pass through the diesel filter, but hey ... me in 6 years nothing at all nothing to report: I must say that I have an indirect injection Bosch pump! 8) for the others yes it will be necessary to take care to use a bi-fueling: thus one cleans all the agsoil before extinguishing, and it is nickel for the next cold start.

if you use an electric pump and thinner this is "your" method so to speak, but it also has its disadvantages: it will force unwanted particles through the filter; at what pressure does it push?
ditto the diluent (10% gas oil or oil for stove): before filtration, it dilutes the impurities that will pass easily through the filter and you will find them in your storage, where the diluent will be diluted and leave the impurities that will then rush ...

henry wrote:The grease particles pose mainly a problem of high viscosity.

you mean ?

you should melt everything and let settle, boil it removes the water (André's method), with a bit of alcohol (or other) when it's hot it precipitates the impurities at the bottom, it "cleans" well.

henry wrote:This may cause the timing belt or injection pump to rupture.

: Shock: huh ??
whatever the friend! not in my case! What exactly are you talking about?
if it is too viscous, it will not pass through the diesel filter and it will just stall the vehicle because the filter will be frozen by the cold which increases the viscosity.
> if you are talking about cold starting on a pump other than Bosch (or zexel, ..) such as lucas or rotodiesel, it should be specified!
but do not say that rolling with grease causes a break in the timing belt and the injection pump (PI)!
first the PI can let go, but not break the timing belt, I think even the engine stops before (PI stopped).

If you put a really efficient electric heater before the injection pump, a lot of the problems are solved (with sunflower oil).

you only talk about cold start?
there is + simple with a fragile PI: the kit bireservoir, using the heat engine to warm the fuel oil, the engine having started diesel, and it rinsed with diesel to stop it.
with a BOSCH it's useless, it's not fearing NOTHING believe me; it's not at all the same mechanical design. the electric heater is only used for one thing, poorly understood: to defeat the diesel filter during cold start with oil.


I invite you to consult the pages of my site to tell me what you think about it, the oil section is at the beginning:
www.nrjrealiste.fr

good to you 8)
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by the middle » 13/11/08, 23:41

but do not say that rolling with grease causes a break in the timing belt and the injection pump (PI)!

:D Bin yes, Jonah, if the oil is too viscous, the pump will have more trouble, and suddenly, the belt ... which may snap.
Go on a tour on olio, you will see specific cases ... :?
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by Other » 14/11/08, 04:14

Hi

it would be good to think about building a centrifuge
(Forced decantation)
Although a good long decantation is very effective
the idea is to have oil in stock a year in advance
the problem of dehumidified (boiled) oil left standing in a tank tends to absorb moisture
it is the traces of moisture in the injectors that annoys me the most to see traces of rust on the spacers or on the springs that makes me ...

Andre
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by jonule » 14/11/08, 09:43

lejustemilieu wrote: :D Bin yes, Jonah, if the oil is too viscous, the pump will have more trouble, and suddenly, the belt ... which may snap.
Go on a tour on olio, you will see specific cases ... :?

I want a link!
you have to be a bit stubborn to drive with too viscous oil, normally it has to be reheated by the coolant (90 ° C) or by an electric heater (40 ° C).
but a pump that has trouble turning can not hurt a mill that has trouble turning if it forces?

no no, you say indeed "which risks" to slam, masi from there to slam!

a link ! a link ! stp!
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