etienne34 wrote:Well, for the moment you're right Flytox, I will be enough to ensure / improve the existing.
yes. At the beginning we have plenty of ideas, but we must not go in all directions at once, otherwise we will be in the settings and interactions without progress or know where the improvement.
I continue to consume the cleat of the fleet and for good reason, as soon as I pull the bubble accelerator cable.
Watch out !
On the other hand that it bubble from the beginning it's very good, you just limit the flow and it will do ....
And for the moment it remains cold at the beginning (probe not connected ms it heats pretty fast even kd thanks to the LDR hoses).
How many degrees is that? Must be as warm as possible without exceeding 85 °!?
Otherwise, it is true and undeniable that the engine is + soft. under power you really have to exaggerate on the recovery (kind of uphill) for that "hiccup".
Do not let your engine hiccup ...................
For the depollution, I can try the handkerchief in the back, ms I read some that it was not so convincing: the Nox are they visible?
The handkerchief on the exhaust is spectacular but does not prove that it pollutes much less. We do not know the size of the particles stopped by the fabric, why it "sticks" to the fabric depending on what (increased water quantity or finer particle sizes etc ...), nor if the Gillier Pantone modification modifies the particle size distribution .....
The NOx you will measure without seeing them with the apparatus that goes well, if you are fortunate ....
And still the same problem of the missing horses that are due (I'm sure 90% because after a passage in the mountains, + problem) to a fouling by the egr.
If at the start you have an engine problem (lack of horsepower), you risk having tuning problems and not being able to interpret the response to your settings / kit. An engine is optimized for "normal" operation and not for "degraded" operation. You should fix your lack of horsepower first, before tampering with your kit.
