Drying time of lumber?

[rasputin56]

Hello everybody
First I introduce myself because I am a new kid on your (rich) forum. As indicated on the left my username is raspoutine56, I work in the voluntary sector and I have just acquired a small house (ruin?) In the forests of central Brittany.
The problem that brings me here today is as follows: I want to make a wood (beam post) / straw extension on my house. I have a lot of wood on my land and in particular oak, chestnut and thuja (the equivalent of red cedar but French .... er ... Breton).
I had thought of cutting down the cedars and bringing in a mobile sawmill to use wood as parquet for bathrooms and terraces.
I also said to myself, maybe also use oak or chestnut as wood for my frame. on the other hand I ignore the drying times necessary before being able to build without having too much shrinkage or spin. Do you have an idea ?
Thank you all and long live Econologie !!!


Edit response by modo: response elements here heating-insulation / drying du bois-de-heating-balance-hygroscopic-t10065.html

[swift2540]

Hello and welcome!
I'm not a wood pro, but an old carpenter told me that wood dries on average 1cm thick / year (2cm for fir).
==> A 2cm oak / beech plank dries in 1 year (1cm on each side )
==> a 6cm white fir beam dries over 1,5 years ...

Provided they are stored under roof, well ventilated and flat of course.

[dedeleco]

Hello

I do not know the drying times required before I can build without having too much shrinkage or spin. Do you have an idea ?

for beautiful furniture wood difficult professional work !!
because fast cracks most of the time, even for wood sold by professionals who dry too quickly making fun of cracks and checks !!!

On econology and google there are precise references that discourage doing this because either the old way over at least 10 years, or in special rooms with humidity levels precisely controlled in such a precise cycle !!!!

Read with great care:
http://passion.bois.free.fr/le%20materi ... ois%20.htm

http://www.auvergne-promobois.com/publi ... echage.pdf
http://www.crea-menuiserie.com/cours/sechage.php

In general the fast drying, in the brutal sun makes full of cracks and checks !!!
The surface dries and shrinks while the interior remains wet !!

The principle is to keep the wood with an almost uniform humidity rate between interior and exterior which, if not, dries it too quickly, shrinks and creates lots of cracks, cracks and cracks then !!!

If on the contrary we use hot and humid air we will always have a suitable circulation inside the piece of wood, towards the surface, but we will decrease the surface evaporation which will thus be found in agreement with this internal circulation . We can say that if we can find the agreement between the air temperature and the humidity, we can achieve a quick and perfect drying.

So despite the paradoxical appearance of this conclusion, the woods must be dried with hot and humid air.

You have to understand the diffusion of heat and humidity in the wood, as well as the dew point !!

So large expensive speakers are needed for this wood, regulated in temperature and humidity well programmed and therefore considering their price, it is reserved for pros with these means and again after good training !!!!

[Ahmed]

With a few precautions, it is perfectly possible for a novice to dry lumber satisfactorily, knowing that the inevitable small drying defects are "purged" during processing.

As wood is subject to humidity variations in the atmosphere, it is prudent to store wood dry for at least 3 weeks on the final locations before any debit. Similarly, after the flow, wait a few days before the wringing so that the internal tensions can be expressed and the deformations are, therefore, eliminated.

Of course, it all depends on the level of perfection that is targeted ... but I believe that a wise amateur can do largely as well as the industry which deploys sophisticated means: let us not forget that all this technology is not there only to accelerate the speed of financial flow.

[dedeleco]

Drying wood without checking, cracks is very difficult because it dries quickly on the surface and little inside !!!!
Without great care for slow changes in humidity, almost impossible !!!
Try to respect 'the few precautions', you will see cracked wood !!!

[rasputin56]

Thank you all for your responses.
Result of the accounts: I will try anyway (even if it means cutting down the trees) but:
- I will keep the wood (oak and chestnut) for the second house (which I do not intend to retype for very long)
- I will try to keep the thuja for an outdoor terrace and for the parquet of the bathroom (which should not be finished in a year) on parquet (1cm) that should finally do it I can always try.
I will inquire because I saw sawmills that could also manage drying (after you have to see at what cost).
thank you all again