diesel tractor: how to purify exhaust gases?

Discussion of methods of remediation and control air quality.
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elephant
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by elephant » 06/04/07, 15:44

hi Mio,

I read your first message:

1) your tractor may still have an "old engine" diesel (a good old one with mechanical pump and all and all)

2) If I remember correctly, the sulfur content of "red" is not as severely regulated as that of "white"

3) if in addition your exhaust is close to your blaze ..... in marine one would tell you to put yourself "upwind" of the pipe, not "downwind"

4) it is not excluded that you are sensitive to carbon monoxide: it gives me a headache in less than a minute
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by Cuicui » 06/04/07, 16:00

Christophe wrote:I confirm: HVB + Pantone (water doping) is the "more better" currently : Cheesy:

But I understand that Mio does not want to modify a brand new diesel under warranty ...
With a fuel composed of white GO + 20% rapeseed oil, the exhaust will certainly be less pestilential. I find the smell of frying rather nice.
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by Mio » 06/04/07, 18:44

Hello elephant,

I don't know if the engine is old or new, but it's a Kubota D722-D14 4-stroke water-cooled indirect injection. The tractor is a Kubota B1610.

The exhaust of diesel fuel that turns on fuel oil or diesel fuel both give me a headache, plus asthma attacks, but a drop of domestic fuel oil spilled on the ground already makes me sick. I guess because of a junk that is added to differentiate it from the other. (As for pastis for private or commercial use). To my knowledge I do not know the nature of this additive, but it is almost obvious that it is not neutral for health.
After information, it is only a dye, pink. Which ?
(The limit sulfur content of heating oil is 2000 ppm against 50 ppm for diesel.
In addition, the cetane number is 51 against 40.)

About rapeseed oil, it is already fifteen years since I saw turning (and especially felt!) A car running on 100% rapeseed one would have thought in a stand of frits, which n is not disagreeable at first, but ...

If we add 20% of rapeseed in diesel, I am not sure that we know all the new products that this generates during combustion and their impact on health.
I remember the time when it was officially declared that diesel engines did not pollute so well that they were not subject to anti pollution controls. In fact, according to a gendarme's confession, anti-pollution control tests had indeed been carried out on diesel, but the probes had been fouled and destroyed. Everyone now knows about particles, at that time, they did not "exist" yet. Now if I am officially told that 20% rapeseed is not dangerous, I am a little wary.
It seems much more logical and simple to filter everything that comes out of the engine and I come back to my water tank.
While waiting for the information that I lack, as I just found three rolls of rock wool that I was about to bring to the recycling center, I will make a filter with this rock wool packed in a metal container and we will see if I'm always sick.
If I am not it will be progress for me. It won't prove that nothing toxic comes out, but it will be a small step.

Kind regards.
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by elephant » 06/04/07, 18:54

not sure at all if this effluent is gaseous
and if you also have athsme ......
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zac
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by zac » 06/04/07, 19:01

Mio wrote: I'm going to make a filter with this rock wool packed in a metal container


Hello

if you put this kind of filter on your exhaust outlet; you're sure to burn your exhaust valves (and maybe kiss the cylinder head).

@+

Have you read my MP?
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by camel1 » 06/04/07, 22:14

Hello !


While waiting for the information that I lack, as I just found three rolls of rock wool that I was about to bring to the recycling center, I will make a filter with this rock wool packed in a metal container and we will see if I'm always sick.


: Shock: : Shock: : Shock: Do not do that! If you have asthma, rock wool (or glass wool) contains lots of micro particles which enter the lungs very easily, just by handling them.

I dare not even imagine what it would be like under the violent effect of the passage of exhaust gases.

If the change caused by the pantone puts you off, you can just put a GV in your exhaust line, without modifying anything, and send this vapor directly to the intake. Spectacular gain on guaranteed pollution ... and cost in time and ridiculous raw material!

If these solutions do not suit you, sell your tractor and buy a donkey, animal traction, this is the top question of pollution, and it works very well! :D
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by Other » 07/04/07, 04:00

Hello
but a drop of fuel oil spilled on the ground already makes me sick. I guess because of a junk that is added to differentiate it from the other
.

The new diesel smells like kerosene and it doesn't smell strong
At the exhaust it was slightly improved.
Now there are two ways to see things either you control the pollution at the source or you keep it in a filter.
To filter or to wash is simply to smear something else (controlled), the pollutants will be concentrated somewhere, and it will have to be disposed of somewhere!
If you do like the boats send the exhaust in water, it ends up that at some point you have to get rid of this dirty water, the problem is not resolved.
The simplest solution is to have an engine in good order injectors pump injection well adjusted and run at the right gasiol.
the other more complicated solution is a panton
the other simpler solution, as Camel says, injecting steam into the intake.
Whatever the methods you will always have cold running after a start which will make all these systems ineffective as long as the engine is not hot.
The mixed solution works with a mixture of rapeseed oil and diesel ... but for the scent it is water that is most effective.
It all depends on how far you are ready to invest your time and energy.

Andre
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ThierrySan
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by ThierrySan » 07/04/07, 16:11

As Elephant said, your headaches are most likely caused by CO.
However, for your asthma, it is that you must have a predominance to be asthmatic, which SO2 does nothing but worsen. Look at the asthmatic people who left for the hospital, following the awakening of a volcano rejecting tons of SO2 ... This effect is well known to doctors!

Then, just like Cuicui, I think, if you don't want to make big modifications on your tractor, you just have to wash your exhaust. As André also points out, your exhaust gases will be washed, but your water will be very charged ...
Regarding the rise of water in the exhaust manifold, I do not believe it because you have an exhaust valve at the outlet of the cylinder. If you're still afraid of it, nothing prevents you from putting a non-return valve at the outlet of the enema tank (pantone bubbler style) to prevent the water from going up too far, and which will only work in overpressure.
In order for your exhaust gases to be properly washed, you should know that the dissolution of CO2 is inversely proportional to the temperature (see our little talk on a subject entitled Dextrorotatory or levorotatory water molecule). Therefore, the colder your water, the more CO2 you will dissolve in the water. Your CO2 will bring CO3 ions (2-) which is carbonic acid. To neutralize it, you just have to put a stone in the water before throwing it, which will have the main effect of creating limestone, style, calcium bicarbonate and others. Also, I think the water will have the effect of "separating" the particles from your exhaust.

I hope to have enlightened you a minimum on the subject. I also hope that we will be able to bring strong criticisms on the subject in order to move it forward ...

Link cited above:
https://www.econologie.com/forums/molecule-d ... t3322.html
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ThierrySan
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by ThierrySan » 07/04/07, 16:22

I just thought of one thing.

Well, your tank must be as far as possible from your engine exhaust outlet. So at the end of the exhaust.
You will also need to replace your dirty water with clean water quite often.
To determine if your water is dirty or even potentially clean, maybe you can determine it with a pH meter. So, when you see that the pH stabilizes at an acidic value (<7), then you have to change your water. This means that the water will no longer be able to "absorb" CO2.
Moreover, it would be interesting to check that when you have re-balanced the pH of your water with a stone, to reuse it. Thus, you will be able to identify the capacity of your water to "dissolve" CO2. If it works over and over again ... Why not ?!
Thereupon, I am not sufficiently developed to refer you. You need a water expert who will tell you if the hardness of the water acts on the dissolving power of CO2 ... What I would be tempted to think!
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by ThierrySan » 09/04/07, 19:21

Auj, I read some documents on the net about water. They were more specialized in the aquarium field ... But hey, I was able to get some info.

A priori, the dissolution of CO2 in water is indeed inversely proportional to the temperature.
The dissolution of CO2 in water also depends on the hardness of the water. The harder the water (the presence of calcium and potassium), the greater the dissolution of CO2 in the water. However, you have to be careful that the temperature remains stable.
Obviously, the pH of the water varies depending on the presence of CO2 in the water. It goes down to an acidic pH, <7.
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