This morning, before the great heat, I crushed a small pile of branches of laurel cherry and douglas before all that dries too much (at the moment, it goes quickly!). The ends of the douglas appeared very long and, as a result, constantly obstructed the outlet chute (it does not matter if we monitor and remove as and when): result not very satisfactory which prompted me to look into the adjustment of the counter knife. It is indeed an essential parameter for the regularity of the fractionation and the successive sharpening of the knives inevitably tend to increase the distance between these two elements.
Afternoon workshop, therefore, which is not to displease me, since cool!
The procedure has already been described, but since this is the second time that I have performed this operation, I am more comfortable. First, loosen the three bolts (Ø 16mm) holding the counter knife. Then it is necessary to loosen the locking nuts (Ø 16mm) of the three adjustment stops; then act on the bolts using an Allen key or by hand if it is not too hard: you have to unscrew if you want to bring the counter blade closer. I advise to frankly unscrew the middle bolt and focus on those on both ends. Normally, there is no need to change the setting much, but it is not critical to go there a bit hard ... At this point, the counter blade has not moved (the screwing pushes the counter blade, but unscrewing does not pull it!) and it is necessary to push this piece back onto its stops by means of a flush and a mallet: the movement is not noticeable, but a change in the noise produced indicates contact. Then, it is necessary to proceed to the tests by successive trial and error; it is better to be in blocking of the blade, because it then suffices to gradually screw the two lateral adjustment bolts to quickly arrive at the correct spacing (which is the smallest possible gap). However, care must be taken to test the two blades and adjust to the larger if there is a difference *. It is then enough to block the three fixing bolts from the start and to block the nuts of the side bolts, to bring the central bolt into abutment and also to block its nut (knowing that this blocking is mainly intended to prevent it does not unscrew and fall, because its positioning is no longer useful once the counter blade is properly blocked).
Some execution tips:
The loosening of the first 3 bolts is made difficult by the small possible amplitude of the key, also, after unlocking using a socket wrench, it is practical to use a ratchet lever; otherwise, you should know that, by design, it suffices to rotate the socket a quarter of a turn to regain degrees of offset allowing the rotation to continue. To act on the other bolts, after having raised the device by about twenty cm, I use a combination wrench / ratchet eye ** which is fine ...
* This difference is the consequence of my manual sharpenings, necessarily a little approximate and whose imprecision increases with the number
Ideally, I would have to look into the realization of a fixed sharpening system to get regular results ... to see.
** I like the Italian brand
Beta which for a reasonable price offers a quality of manufacture that I consider excellent (free advertising!).
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... Even if you have to be damn dizzy, to try to get your arm into the chute with the engine running. 
