Vegetable garden of the (super) lazy in the 04 (800m)

[Did67]

More and more often, there will be mild periods between cold periods.

It is therefore interesting to know up to what temperature a plant can resist.

Then, of course, we will have "slow growth" - physiological reactions depend on temperature, and unlike us, a plant does not regulate it.

I still sowed chews, where I harvested the last potatoes (the famous Sarpo Mira). I hope they will "grow". Slowly.

It would therefore be necessary to know two temperatures:

a) the minimum temperature that the plant supports ("hardiness")

b) "zero vegetation" = the temperature below which it no longer grows (no more growth).

I don't know if the book gives any indication on this.

[Did67]

What would be interesting, however, is that they GROW by -10 and that we can therefore grow it productively in winter.
But this is not the case.

This is not possible. Quite simply. For the stated reason: the plant does not control its temperature and physiological reactions cannot occur at such low temperatures!

If the plants grew by -10 °, your freezer would be completely useless! And Alaska a virgin forest!

[Adrien (ex-nico239)]

What would be interesting, however, is that they GROW by -10 and that we can therefore grow it productively in winter.
But this is not the case.

This is not possible. Quite simply. For the stated reason: the plant does not control its temperature and physiological reactions cannot occur at such low temperatures!

If the plants grew by -10 °, your freezer would be completely useless! And Alaska a virgin forest!

Yes of course it was to show that resistance has no impact when you want to produce.

[Did67]

Yes Yes ! There I think you are wrong. You reason like a computer scientist: 0 or 1!

You can have a fairly mild winter, with a lot of periods above "zero vegetation" (especially in frames). So great periods of growth. Interspersed with one or two or three very cold periods, well below. There, the "hardiness" will be quite decisive. If the plants die, no further growth. If they pass the course, they take it back.

On the contrary, I will therefore take a very close interest in this question of the hardiness of our vegetables. Indispensable in my "tactic" of shifting the periods of cultivation from scorching summers to the off-season. How far could I push the cork? It will depend on the hardiness!

[Adrien (ex-nico239)]

Yes Yes ! There I think you are wrong. You reason like a computer scientist: 0 or 1!

You can have a fairly mild winter, with a lot of periods above "zero vegetation" (especially in frames). So great periods of growth. Interspersed with one or two or three very cold periods, well below. There, the "hardiness" will be quite decisive. If the plants die, no further growth. If they pass the course, they take it back.

On the contrary, I will therefore take a very close interest in this question of the hardiness of our vegetables. Indispensable in my "tactic" of shifting the periods of cultivation from scorching summers to the off-season. How far could I push the cork? It will depend on the hardiness!

We say the same thing but I misspoke it in the last post

Back to previous

In short, what matters in my opinion if we want to produce is the production temperature with [implying crops capable of withstanding] small, lower tolerances in order to guarantee occasional and extreme cold snaps.

We must try to give winter crops the best possible conditions.
The advantage that they have to be "winter" is as they say to be able to endure colder periods without dying to start again afterwards.

[Did67]

OKAY. I had already forgotten the end!

I am also surprised that you have no growth on the lamb's lettuce. Even if with me too, "at the end", it rises very quickly [it's a "canopy" plant, so she anticipates the fact that above her, suddenly it will cut the light; it therefore reacts very quickly to the photoperiod - lengthening of the days, to lengthen the internodes, then flower!].

Try the Nordic "shells" (Louviers shells, Cambrai green shells) ...

[Adrien (ex-nico239)]

OKAY. I had already forgotten the end!

I am also surprised that you have no growth on the lamb's lettuce. Even if with me too, "at the end", it rises very quickly [it's a "canopy" plant, so she anticipates the fact that above her, suddenly it will cut the light; it therefore reacts very quickly to the photoperiod - lengthening of the days, to lengthen the internodes, then flower!].

Try the Nordic "shells" (Louviers shells, Cambrai green shells) ...

Until now it was not terrible in the winter and too fast in the spring
We will see in the coffers

I had just taken the Louviers at the time that's for sure.
For the Cambrai it also seems to me, but without certainty

And there uh I will have to look tomorrow I do not know

As much the 1st sowing was too scattered (within each tube) for what I want to do: a good bouquet per tube easy to harvest.

lamb's lettuce.JPG (154.08 KiB) Viewed 2344 times

As much as the following ones are, it seems, more successful: it is better to have a hair too much than not enough (sometimes 1 single plant in the 1st sowing), it will be necessary to see the level of overpopulation to adapt the number of seeds

corn salad seedling.JPG (111.49 KiB) Viewed 2344 times

[Adrien (ex-nico239)]

Apart from that the tomato seedlings are always doing well
And those already transplanted in the chests too: it will especially be necessary to monitor the wiring

To see I sowed a single (to test) tomato titled by me “big crimea”, a succulent that we had bought at a farmer's store and ate this summer.
Without, a priori vernalization, it germinated (it is on the left in the photo but we do not see the growth very well)
So I reseed a dozen to confirm
Maybe just being cool in the chalet for 2 months was enough to vernalize? I dunno.

tomato seedlings.JPG (105.05 KiB) Viewed 2341 times

Those of beans too

semis de fèves.JPG (106.1 KiB) Viewed 2341 times

Anecdote, a radish root with overweight.
I opted for radishes as a ground cover in addition to natural herbs ...
It's impressive these plants you can prune them in all directions it always grows back and it always leaves leaves: it's pretty awesome.
And there while transplanting I discovered this big "root" which is flush with

radish in ground cover.JPG (84.17 KiB) Viewed 2341 times

[Adrien (ex-nico239)]

Apart from many other advantages the usefulness of the illustrated tubes

I made gourmet cuttings: some have taken over others not.
So as not to work for nothing I had wedged the tubes in molds just placed on the ground
The goal is to transplant them only in case of recovery
This one having given nothing I deleted it

autre_avantage_des_tubes_1.JPG (60.44 KiB) Viewed 2339 times

But as we can see there were people under the tube.
We can imagine what it would be like if I did not put any, they would go under the mold and crack no growth would resist

autre_avantage_des_tubes_2.JPG (105.51 KiB) Viewed 2339 times

[Adrien (ex-nico239)]

The patchwork of the avocado chest: eggplants (which never gave anything), heirloom tomatoes, seedlings and plants cut low to the ground and which set out again, broad beans, Brussels sprouts, radish leaves + a few peas

le_patchwork_du_coffre_à_l'avocat_2.JPG (117.53 KiB) Viewed 2337 times

lawyer

le_patchwork_du_coffre_à_l'avocat_1.JPG (110.63 KiB) Viewed 2337 times