Le Potager du Sloth: Gardening without fatigue more than Bio

[Doris]

Attention: to eat!

Because there he begins his second life, that of the second year. Which will end in flowering. Before, it will be fibrous, then hollow, and bitter ...

Many raves, exposed to the sun in the second year, make side tufts.

Thanks, I don't know enough about the races yet. That's good, it was in order the next to be tasted (by the way, this year I only have the pleasure of really tasting celery from the kitchen garden, but it's too good, no bitterness, no taste acrid, it's really a very nice discovery)

[Did67]

The total closure of the sides will be part of a new test

It is the height that is decisive. For a given width.

You have to think in a "solid angle": you put yourself in the place of a radish, and you look at the part of the sky that you see.

- at the extreme, your frame is 0 cm high: you have 100% of the space

- you take 1 m high in a frame of 1 m side and you only have 50% of the "volume above you" ...

So the "solid" well designed frames are about twenty cm maximum on the bottom side, about thirty on the highest side, and 1,2 m to 1,4 m wide ... It is high enough, on the side the lowest, for plants or low vegetables (salads, etc ...) ... Climbing more is to risk etiolation (the "spaghetti" effect due to a lack of light).

there, the radish always receives 80 or 90% of the light (it "sees" 80 or 90% of the celestial sphere above it) ... The more you go up and the more you reduce the widths / lengths, and the more that decrease ... A radish that you put at the bottom of a 20 cm diameter tube and 1 m high will only have a few percent of the light ...

[Adrien (ex-nico239)]

The total closure of the sides will be part of a new test

It is the height that is decisive. For a given width.

You have to think in a "solid angle": you put yourself in the place of a radish, and you look at the part of the sky that you see.

- at the extreme, your frame is 0 cm high: you have 100% of the space

- you take 1 m high in a frame of 1 m side and you only have 50% of the "volume above you" ...

So the "solid" well designed frames are about twenty cm maximum on the bottom side, about thirty on the highest side, and 1,2 m to 1,4 m wide ... It is high enough, on the side the lowest, for plants or low vegetables (salads, etc ...) ... Climbing more is to risk etiolation (the "spaghetti" effect due to a lack of light).

there, the radish always receives 80 or 90% of the light (it "sees" 80 or 90% of the celestial sphere above it) ... The more you go up and the more you reduce the widths / lengths, and the more that decrease ... A radish that you put at the bottom of a 20 cm diameter tube and 1 m high will only have a few percent of the light ...

The chests are roughly 2 x 1m ...
The evolution test is closed on the north side of 2m and the 2 sides of 1x1m, open on the 2m south side and at the "ceiling" of 2x1m

[Doris]

So I did a lot of tomato seedlings in August 2021 for 2022.
I transplanted them into the chests at the end of December during the Christmas holidays ... the days increase little but they increase
Some have resumed well, some are dead ...
To be continued: the atmosphere of the chests with the cords is correct and I used long tubes
So this year no artificial lighting
The seedlings emerged at a time when the days were still long even if I think I was a month late: next year I will do them at the beginning of July.

I come back to your tomatoes, I don't remember that you mentioned it in the summer, but maybe I'm wrong? Did the early sowing bring you something more in terms of harvests? Did you have ripe tomatoes earlier in the season? Last year, I had four plants sown in January, but it was not for an experiment of precocity, I had planned to do a little grafting, but I was not able in the end. But I'm going to make three four plants like that anyway. They had a good lead over the others, and had already produced a bit before the late blight arrived. And I also saw that in August, once the conditions were finally unfavorable for disease, it was they too who recovered the most easily.

[Adrien (ex-nico239)]

So I did a lot of tomato seedlings in August 2021 for 2022.
I transplanted them into the chests at the end of December during the Christmas holidays ... the days increase little but they increase
Some have resumed well, some are dead ...
To be continued: the atmosphere of the chests with the cords is correct and I used long tubes
So this year no artificial lighting
The seedlings emerged at a time when the days were still long even if I think I was a month late: next year I will do them at the beginning of July.

I come back to your tomatoes, I don't remember that you mentioned it in the summer, but maybe I'm wrong? Did the early sowing bring you something more in terms of harvests? Did you have ripe tomatoes earlier in the season? Last year, I had four plants sown in January, but it was not for an experiment of precocity, I had planned to do a little grafting, but I was not able in the end. But I'm going to make three four plants like that anyway. They had a good lead over the others, and had already produced a bit before the late blight arrived. And I also saw that in August, once the conditions were finally unfavorable for disease, it was they too who recovered the most easily.

I don't know it's for this year...
The goal is to have homemade tomatoes before mid August...

So I'm testing the different options.
I think August is too late for sowing
Next year I'll give it a try at the beginning of July if and only if... they overwinter and there it's -12 every night... not terrible

[Rajqawee]

I set up the seedbed for lamb's lettuce and lettuce. I recall the current construction:

-a pallet
-boards on the sides to make a border (15cm high)
-cardboard flat at the bottom to make a "background", and isolate
-5cm of building sand (recycled)
- heating cord spread at best, vivarium material
-2cm of building sand
- a transparent tarpaulin on top.

I also bought a small thermostat with sockets that triggers and alarms, adjustable to different temperatures. WELL !

This morning it was -3 (-1,5 under the tarp), so I took the opportunity to throw the cord by setting the trigger to 4°C. Result of the races, it works very well and in 30min the temperature rose above 4°C (and there the little sun took over, it is already at 11°C inside). I'm going to leave it plugged in overnight to see if in the early morning the temperature stays above 0 by setting the setting to 4°C (my goal is roughly that, to have no more than 5°C difference )

[Moindreffor]

Attention: to eat!

Because there he begins his second life, that of the second year. Which will end in flowering. Before, it will be fibrous, then hollow, and bitter ...

Many raves, exposed to the sun in the second year, make side tufts.

Thanks, I don't know enough about the races yet. That's good, it was in order the next to be tasted (by the way, this year I only have the pleasure of really tasting celery from the kitchen garden, but it's too good, no bitterness, no taste acrid, it's really a very nice discovery)

despite my delay, I tasted my first celeriac, it was the size of an orange, well that's a starter for two, but the whole thing is to enjoy, after nothing prevents me from harvesting some two next time to increase the ration
and I think that celery is one of those vegetables that tastes very different when it comes from the garden and is eaten ultra, that is to say on the day of harvest, which is rarely the case otherwise

[Did67]

It is a rather demanding vegetable... Large roots require good fertility. At home, without watering, they "swell" in the fall especially...

This year, I have Ibises, which are always outside (we are flirting with -7°C at the moment)... I still advise against it (one year, I have rots in the heart of the leaves, which have then broadcast throughout the rave)...

[Doris]

It is a rather demanding vegetable... Large roots require good fertility. At home, without watering, they "swell" in the fall especially...

It is with this vegetable that I most easily measure the new fertility of my sand. Between the raves of 2020 and 2021, there is no photo, last year it was rikiki, everything ended in the soup. The celery in yesterday's photo is harvested, once the uneaten parts have been removed, 500 g anyway, and it's not the biggest. On the other hand, at home, those who are pokey at the end of the summer, stay small, it does not swell in the fall. But we don't have the same soil or climate.

[Biobomb]

It is a rather demanding vegetable... Large roots require good fertility. At home, without watering, they "swell" in the fall especially...

This year, I have Ibises, which are always outside (we are flirting with -7°C at the moment)... I still advise against it (one year, I have rots in the heart of the leaves, which have then broadcast throughout the rave)...

Although I have fertile soil, it's been 2 years since I've been doing "well" my celeriac. They are quite early affected by verticillium wilt, a disease, like mildew, which is specific to them and which ends up making holes in their leaves. I'm going to have to find really resistant varieties, if anyone knows one or two from having tried them, I'm interested.