Le Potager du Sloth: Gardening without fatigue more than Bio

Agriculture and soil. Pollution control, soil remediation, humus and new agricultural techniques.
VetusLignum
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Re: The Kitchen Garden Sloth: Gardening without fatigue more than Bio




by VetusLignum » 07/03/21, 22:30

Moindreffor wrote:little question
Didier told us about dormancy for garlic, Ok
So we know how to fight against the lifting of dormancy, but precisely this should not be used to program this lifting of dormancy
Let me explain, when we put winter garlic in the ground at the end of October, if we kept it warm, the dormancy will only be lifted after planting, and therefore we will have to wait 3 -4 or even 5 weeks for it to rise and that's when we hear about the risk of rot because at this time it rains

So shouldn't we prepare for this lifting of dormancy upstream, so even if at the end of September early October we can still have beautiful days, put our garlic a little in the fridge, from the end of September, discontinuously, to trigger the lifting of dormancy? and therefore plant garlic at the end of October which only asks to rise, and therefore very quickly have roots and leaves which would cancel the rotting of the pod since at that time we have a plant and no longer a pod

another remark my yellow onions from last year's seedlings have their dormancy which begins to rise the sprouts start to come out, on the other hand for the red onions, which they should be put even later they already have sprouts of 3 or 4cm, I will put them in a cup and keep them sheltered from frost, still -4 ° C last night, otherwise they will be sure they will vernalize

another question where to find the length of dormancy?


I think the best method is to plant several varieties in October / November, and to keep in your collection only those that are successful.
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Re: The Kitchen Garden Sloth: Gardening without fatigue more than Bio




by Adrien (ex-nico239) » 08/03/21, 01:22

Seen on France 3 this melon producer with his soil moisture tester (?)



2021-03-06_191540.jpg
2021-03-06_191540.jpg (232.52 KIO) Accessed 684 times


2021-03-06_191553.jpg
2021-03-06_191553.jpg (298.06 KIO) Accessed 684 times
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Re: The Kitchen Garden Sloth: Gardening without fatigue more than Bio




by Biobomb » 08/03/21, 14:07

Adrien (ex-nico239) wrote:Seen on France 3 this melon producer with his soil moisture tester (?)



2021-03-06_191540.jpg

2021-03-06_191553.jpg

On youtube I just saw this


Watermark sensor (with installation tube) & handmeter - by MMM tech supportv

We see one of the tubes to the right of the guy
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Re: The Kitchen Garden Sloth: Gardening without fatigue more than Bio




by Rajqawee » 08/03/21, 15:25

Since we are talking about water, and as I do not have a vegetable garden at the moment, I am documenting myself upstream of the future vegetable garden (which is getting bigger and bigger ... with an orchard too)

Have we already talked about sprinkler irrigation systems here? Have any of you tried?

By the I mean fairly economical systems, like oscillating sprinklers, lawn sprinklers, etc.

Obviously the idea is in vegetable gardens of "large" surfaces (more than 50m²), to do without a targeted watering as much as possible, but without resorting to drip (on which there is already a plethora of information from all over).

I have found different models (like cellfast, gardena, etc.) which water very large areas, but whose flow rates are low. Typically an oscillating lawn sprinkler covers roughly 100m², but sending only 15L / min!
However, at the times when we need watering, we can consider that we need 6mm (classic FTE value of a summer day?) Per m², or 6L per day (data on my new region), or 600L per day.
If we water every 4 days, it would therefore be necessary to balance 2,5M3 by rounding, at each watering. Which means watering a little less than 3h (2,7h).
This is where it seems interesting to me: an oscillating sprinkler, planted at the top of a stake in the middle of the vegetable garden, that would water the said vegetable garden in 3 hours every 3 to 4 days (these are the orders of magnitude that interest us ). It seems much easier than installing a drip, which also consumes a lot more materials, right?

If you couple it to a simple programmer, it almost becomes a dream?
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Re: The Kitchen Garden Sloth: Gardening without fatigue more than Bio




by Moindreffor » 08/03/21, 16:47

Rajqawee wrote:Since we are talking about water, and as I do not have a vegetable garden at the moment, I am documenting myself upstream of the future vegetable garden (which is getting bigger and bigger ... with an orchard too)

Have we already talked about sprinkler irrigation systems here? Have any of you tried?

By the I mean fairly economical systems, like oscillating sprinklers, lawn sprinklers, etc.

Obviously the idea is in vegetable gardens of "large" surfaces (more than 50m²), to do without a targeted watering as much as possible, but without resorting to drip (on which there is already a plethora of information from all over).

I have found different models (like cellfast, gardena, etc.) which water very large areas, but whose flow rates are low. Typically an oscillating lawn sprinkler covers roughly 100m², but sending only 15L / min!
However, at the times when we need watering, we can consider that we need 6mm (classic FTE value of a summer day?) Per m², or 6L per day (data on my new region), or 600L per day.
If we water every 4 days, it would therefore be necessary to balance 2,5M3 by rounding, at each watering. Which means watering a little less than 3h (2,7h).
This is where it seems interesting to me: an oscillating sprinkler, planted at the top of a stake in the middle of the vegetable garden, that would water the said vegetable garden in 3 hours every 3 to 4 days (these are the orders of magnitude that interest us ). It seems much easier than installing a drip, which also consumes a lot more materials, right?

If you couple it to a simple programmer, it almost becomes a dream?

the big difference is that a sprinkler will water the entire surface, the drippers just the base of the plant, so perhaps a saving of water, because 2.5m3 every 4 days, 10 times we are at 25m3 it will start to encrypt
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Re: The Kitchen Garden Sloth: Gardening without fatigue more than Bio




by Rajqawee » 08/03/21, 17:01

I intend to compare the two systems, obviously, on as many criteria as possible. I was already looking to see if you can confirm the orders of magnitude / if you have already tried.

(because behind, the gain on the investment cost, both in time to devote to it and in euros, seems enormous when compared to drip. I am therefore already trying to find out if there is a track to dig, and if there is, to dig it to the end!)
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Re: The Kitchen Garden Sloth: Gardening without fatigue more than Bio




by Moindreffor » 08/03/21, 17:50

VetusLignum wrote:
Moindreffor wrote:little question
Didier told us about dormancy for garlic, Ok
So we know how to fight against the lifting of dormancy, but precisely this should not be used to program this lifting of dormancy
Let me explain, when we put winter garlic in the ground at the end of October, if we kept it warm, the dormancy will only be lifted after planting, and therefore we will have to wait 3 -4 or even 5 weeks for it to rise and that's when we hear about the risk of rot because at this time it rains

So shouldn't we prepare for this lifting of dormancy upstream, so even if at the end of September early October we can still have beautiful days, put our garlic a little in the fridge, from the end of September, discontinuously, to trigger the lifting of dormancy? and therefore plant garlic at the end of October which only asks to rise, and therefore very quickly have roots and leaves which would cancel the rotting of the pod since at that time we have a plant and no longer a pod

another remark my yellow onions from last year's seedlings have their dormancy which begins to rise the sprouts start to come out, on the other hand for the red onions, which they should be put even later they already have sprouts of 3 or 4cm, I will put them in a cup and keep them sheltered from frost, still -4 ° C last night, otherwise they will be sure they will vernalize

another question where to find the length of dormancy?


I think the best method is to plant several varieties in October / November, and to keep in your collection only those that are successful.

that's very classic, but my question is precisely to be less classic, is there a way to do better, otherwise what's the point of having information if not to use it?
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Re: The Kitchen Garden Sloth: Gardening without fatigue more than Bio




by Doris » 08/03/21, 17:56

Rajqawee wrote:Since we are talking about water, and as I do not have a vegetable garden at the moment, I am documenting myself upstream of the future vegetable garden (which is getting bigger and bigger ... with an orchard too)

Have we already talked about sprinkler irrigation systems here? Have any of you tried?

I used it last year, yes, and this year I'm going to go back to what I wanted to do at the start, but impossible, because of confinement, ie combining the two. I used it mainly in very hot weather, and in order to cool the vegetable garden a little. But I wouldn't want it as the only system, because we use a lot of water, and also, it is not so easy to install the sprinkler to water everywhere, there is the wind to take into account , the edges and corners are badly watered or you have to adjust the jet wider. So in practice it is not that economical. It's year I put on a watering system by seeps, type Poritex, for example, also load well in organic matter before the summer (last year I underestimated the contribution, in months of August there was very little left), and work with the sprinkling only from time to time, if it really burns too much. And if I put the sprinkling it will be at my place from around 14 p.m. to 16 p.m., until half-past noon the vegetable garden is in partial shade, and around 16 or 17 p.m. the shade comes back slowly, so it's really very targeted, in case of high heat only.
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Re: The Kitchen Garden Sloth: Gardening without fatigue more than Bio




by Moindreffor » 08/03/21, 18:05

Rajqawee wrote:I intend to compare the two systems, obviously, on as many criteria as possible. I was already looking to see if you can confirm the orders of magnitude / if you have already tried.

(because behind, the gain on the investment cost, both in time to devote to it and in euros, seems enormous when compared to drip. I am therefore already trying to find out if there is a track to dig, and if there is, to dig it to the end!)

for me the first concern of general sprinkling is that you will wet everything, as well those who will enjoy it, e.g. salads because it will lower the temperature and therefore prevent them from rising to seed, as well as those who do not. not like like tomatoes or cucurbits

Personally, I use drip, mainly because I will use rainwater as a priority and therefore no pressure, which limits the possibilities
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Re: The Kitchen Garden Sloth: Gardening without fatigue more than Bio




by Biobomb » 08/03/21, 18:49

Moindreffor wrote: is there a way to do better, otherwise what's the point of having information if not to use it?

Or to reassure himself that his way of doing things is consistent with his objective or even his requirements.

Peter's Principle is universally recognized but not necessarily applied.
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