Le Potager du Sloth: Gardening without fatigue more than Bio

Agriculture and soil. Pollution control, soil remediation, humus and new agricultural techniques.
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Rust COHLE
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Re: The Kitchen Garden Sloth: Gardening without fatigue more than Bio




by Rust COHLE » 17/01/21, 23:32

Thank you for the feedback, and then it is well known: "a training is worth two waterings", unless it is "a phenage is worth two waterings", or "a BRFage is worth two waterings", possible ...
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Re: The Kitchen Garden Sloth: Gardening without fatigue more than Bio




by Did67 » 18/01/21, 09:53

pi-r wrote:
Did67 wrote:As you are surely close to the Albion plateau, they are trying to capture the soldiers! Maybe to hijack our rockets (but I think they're gone ??? No one told them ???)


I can confirm to you that they have not been there for quite a few years. I went back to it some time ago, after having been a shepherd up there even longer ... than memories ... the actual base still exists.


It was just a valve, make that clear.

Not that we become a conspiratorial site! There are enough who take care of it!
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Re: The Kitchen Garden Sloth: Gardening without fatigue more than Bio




by Did67 » 18/01/21, 09:54

Rust COHLE wrote:Thank you for the feedback, and then it is well known: "a training is worth two waterings", unless it is "a phenage is worth two waterings", or "a BRFage is worth two waterings", possible ...


However, I don't know the variety. I had recovered 3 or 4 suckers from the mother-in-law, more than 10 years ago ...
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Re: The Kitchen Garden Sloth: Gardening without fatigue more than Bio




by pi-r » 18/01/21, 10:27

Did67 wrote:It was just a valve, make that clear.

don't worry, I understood that well ...
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Re: The Kitchen Garden Sloth: Gardening without fatigue more than Bio




by pi-r » 18/01/21, 10:51

concerning red fruits and more particularly raspberries going back up, if you haven't seen it, there is Didier's video entitled “darling we sow?” where it shows a lot of very interesting things ..
on the varieties: in the fall, I planted 3 repeat varieties "zeva remorante", "marastar", and the essential "heritage". I chose them for their complementarities on "paper" ... because of course I have not yet returned from production!
planting: 1m between each foot. at 25 / 30cm along the fence with my neighbor on whom I plan to lean, as needed.
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Re: The Kitchen Garden Sloth: Gardening without fatigue more than Bio




by stephgouv » 18/01/21, 11:09

Did67 wrote:For those who are interested, the interview I gave to a "fan", for Libertoo. Where you have to register to read it. So for those who don't want to ...

Interview Libertoo.pdf


Questions:
a) therefore to be "effective", the manure that you mention should be put at the earliest at the end of January-beginning of February (just before the hay) so that the N has time to act on the organisms in the soil without being washed away ?
b) If we opt for a) planting onions in manure is not risky?
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Re: The Kitchen Garden Sloth: Gardening without fatigue more than Bio




by Did67 » 18/01/21, 14:05

The question was about "goat droppings".

"Manure" is a portmanteau word which includes matters ranging from what comes out of the stable, after being taken out of the animal, to "manure compost" having remained in heaps for months. Having heated. Been digested. Having lost part of its energy and therefore of its carbon. Where minerals are available, in part leachable if they are nitrates ...

I would say for fresh manure, I don't think there is a big difference between "bringing in hay" or "bringing in fresh manure". Even if the latter has been crushed a little by chewing, already a little attacked by digestion and even a little more, in the case of ruminants ("rumination" and passage through the rumen are a bacterial fermentation; the ruminant in fact does not "digest" the hay sensu stricto, but the bacteria which fed on the hay in the rumen) ... Brought in November or December or January, the final phase, nitrification; will be slowed down by low soil temperatures.

For well-made manure, on the other hand, minerals are there, soluble. And can be trained: nitrates, but also potassium (weakly retained) ...

For onions, "we say that ...". With the hay, I never encountered any problems. With the fresh manure ???? We should try!
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Re: The Kitchen Garden Sloth: Gardening without fatigue more than Bio




by Biobomb » 18/01/21, 14:29

pi-r wrote:concerning red fruits and more particularly raspberries going back up, if you haven't seen it, there is Didier's video entitled “darling we sow?” where it shows a lot of very interesting things ..
on the varieties: in the fall, I planted 3 repeat varieties "zeva remorante", "marastar", and the essential "heritage". I chose them for their complementarities on "paper" ... because of course I have not yet returned from production!
planting: 1m between each foot. at 25 / 30cm along the fence with my neighbor on whom I plan to lean, as needed.


Great for the neighbor because he will have raspberries that he can pick directly at home without having planted any :D This is how neighborhood law is made.
Personally, I pick them at home and I bring a tray to the neighbor ... : Lol:
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Re: The Kitchen Garden Sloth: Gardening without fatigue more than Bio




by Biobomb » 18/01/21, 14:47

Did67 wrote:
Rust COHLE wrote:
I am wondering about the method of training to choose, I am focusing on Dutch training, do you have any opinions? Feedback from experience? Given the advantages mentioned in the attached photos.



1) For the distance, if you have a lot of plants, you put tight. Otherwise, just know that it sucks. There will be "little raspberries" everywhere, from the second year. What comes out in the row, you leave them if you had put less. And between the row, you mow / tear off, otherwise very quickly, you won't go through!

2) Put wide between the rows (I must be 1,50 m), to be able to move around more easily. At the start of the season, I switch with my riding mower. In season, I no longer pass. But I can easily squeeze in to harvest ...

3) I have a very simple method of trellising: a single row of stakes in the center of the row, with three tightly stretched wire bars:
: Oops:
a) the lower one has a drip hose: when I have a lot of water, I water; raspberries are very sensitive to lack of water; flowers abort ...

b) a row at waist height (rather between knee and waist)

c) one row at chest height

On these two rows, I pass with a ball of thread (recovery of the thread of the rolls of hay); I grab one foot, I go around the thread, I grab the next foot, I go around the thread ... And so, I make a kind of hem, which holds the stems close to the thread ...


Didier says the truth for the training, we must especially forget the Dutch method. In theory it is good but requires a lot more work in practice.

My non-rising raspberries, 3 varieties, have never been watered, they are in the middle of the mountain, are more than 2 meters, and have never suffered from the heatwave. They wear in profusion every year. I am looking for tofs to show them to you.
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Re: The Kitchen Garden Sloth: Gardening without fatigue more than Bio




by Did67 » 18/01/21, 16:22

You must have a hellish RFU !!

At home, despite my soil with a favorable texture (but not very deep, and "poorly" exposed from the drought point of view on a south-west facing slope), the flowers fail in the middle of summer. I have a nice wave before (on the RFU) and a second, more or less beautiful, in the fall (but the return of humidity often coincides with the days which decline and the aromas are not what they are. were!).
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