Le Potager du Sloth: Gardening without fatigue more than Bio

[Did67]

It is, in mechanized cultivation, undoubtedly the simplest way to have straight and white ...

But it is not necessary.

Since it is not necessary to make 30 or 40 cm trenches to bury the claws ...

After, we must recognize, that with my pots upside down, it's a mess!

[to be chafoin]

With tarpaulins maybe?

[Did67]

Yes, perhaps by anchoring fairly light black opaque tarpaulins.

Or so I do as nico, but it is less lazy, I arch concrete irons !!!!

I have a season to think!

[Moindreffor]

Yes, perhaps by anchoring fairly light black opaque tarpaulins.

Or so I do as nico, but it is less lazy, I arch concrete irons !!!!

I have a season to think!

the right layer of hay, and basta right? or do you think it would consume too much?
all that you will install that they will not be able to pierce will make them twist, in addition under your black tarpaulin you will have to open to observe, there frankly you are complicating your life
because in a glance passing you will see piercing outside the hay spikes and if you are afraid that it is not opaque enough, mowing grass on the hay, it makes you a better block Sun

[phil12]

Hello phenos,

Start second year (temporary meadow + straw + mowing the first year)

Everything is looking good, for the moment no too invasive animals, few slugs (but I have a lot of birds> no cat> LPO refuge and I saw green lizards and a large grass snake) ) the only thing will be a little delay in ignition because of the cold soil under the mulch and a dog of friends in dog sitting dancing on my boards and digging beyond.
Starting my drilling this year, homemade hay for my vegetable garden, driving in plant mode, not spread in strips.

For the asparagus for me it was straw + mowing, next year it will be hay, as for me the asparagus is not white put green I enjoy.

The advantages of the first year:

- little watering
- late tomatoes but to fall on the heart ... in flavor (I made sun-dried tomatoes they look like cranberries so sweet they are) tomatoes driven on the ground (this year I am doing a tunnel-type bamboo tutoring for that some do not get stained on contact with the ground> and no mildew
- asparagus, zucchini, Espelette peppers, chard, cockerels, straw potatoes, giant artichokes, beans galore (my pleasure) pumpkins etc ...
- noticeable deterioration of the soil (a treat to plant this year)
- no aphids

The lessers

- beans sown in winter mistreated by robins
- strawberries plumped up by blackbirds (we'll be more careful this year)
- prolonged nitrogen hunger on raspberries (False BRF + straw + Lawn mowing) + lack of water I was traveling at the height of the heat wave but I think that the woody contributions will give results this year.
- business plans I don't have time to harvest my seeds yet and make my plants (I will try to make a greenhouse: nursery this year)
- the cinquefoil

Anyway my goal is to have a super lazy vegetable garden in 3 or 4 th year, I am not in a hurry, moreover there are many organic producers in the sector and my budget allows me to make these purchases.
Good spring .
A+

[Did67]

For the asparagus for me it was straw + mowing, next year it will be hay, as for me the asparagus is not white put green I enjoy.

For me, I am not a fan of "bleaching".

But I have the impression that they form fibers more quickly and above all, that the branches and leaves form faster. We do not have, when I do not put anything, so much length in "one barrel" ...

I think the mound or blanket "forces" the asparagus sideways, looking for light, while not developing the "terminal bud" (underground, that wouldn't "work"). So they go up, they go up without unfolding the terminal bud. And with the deployment of the terminal bud, I have the impression that physiologically, this is accompanied by the placement of fibers, so that the stems resist the weight of the leaves ...

But then, maybe by cutting more, shorter, it comes to the same ???

[phil12]

I cut them progressively to 25/35 cm and when I have had enough on one foot I let the last stems finish their complete cycle.

Indeed some find the long fibers difficult to pierce and zigzag others find the right passage and grow straight with the necessary force.

I think you need a mulch mix with short straws and sand or earth (inertia to effectively keep the spears a little under pressure)

The only place where I have a few slugs is on the asparagus, but they rather attack the remains of cut stems in addition to perched on the tu they are an easy prey for the blackbirds.

[Adrien (ex-nico239)]

Yes, perhaps by anchoring fairly light black opaque tarpaulins.

Or so I do as nico, but it is less lazy, I arch concrete irons !!!!

I have a season to think!

It all depends on the gear you own.

You have to have a bender (50 €) and there in 10 seconds you have your hoop
To cut the concrete iron of 6mm a simple hacksaw is enough: there too in less than 30 seconds it is cut

But damn it, concrete irons are useful for a lot of uses in a house ... and not just in the vegetable patch

[Did67]

I let the last stems finish their full cycle.

Yes, very important to leave enough to recharge the claws for next year!

[VetusLignum]

A ration of 1/1, or a little less, seems to be considered to be optimal for the majority of our plants.

Bucaille evokes, as an order of magnitude, ratio of a forest = 90% fungi 10% bacteria; ratio of a meadow = 10% fungi / 90% bacteria. And he says that we should rebalance the "ideal" cultivation soil at 40% field / 60% bact (or the reverse is to be checked but roughly it corresponds, he gives a more detailed calculation depending on the type of crop. mushroom: actinomycete, yeast ...).

OK then
forest: ratio = 9
meadow: ratio = 1 / 9
ideal: ratio = 4 / 6 = 2 / 3

But all this is empirical and questionable.

For my part, I insist that it is the absolute optimal ratio (without competition) that interests us, whereas when we consider ecological succession, it is a relative ratio that we observe.

It would no doubt be useful to look at the work of David C. Johnson.
He has a doctorate in microbiology.
He thinks he has invented a very efficient composting method. Its composting is done in aerobic conditions, and it allows the mushrooms to settle, with on arrival an F / B ratio greater than 3.
In its tests, the higher the F / B ratio, the better the plants grow. The F / B ratio is the indicator best correlated with plant growth.
In a soil dominated by bacteria, 96% of the photosynthesized carbon leaves in the soil, while this share should be 46%. Plants therefore take care of (rebalance) the soil instead of growing.
he considers that the question of the optimal F / B ratio should be reviewed.
He didn't pay much attention to the C / N ratio, he found that when the nitrogen was lacking, there were free fixing bacteria that came to do the job.
He tells us about other interesting communities, such as bacteria that dissolve phosphorus (making it accessible to plants), and bacteria that produce growth hormones.
He sees his compost as an inoculant, not an amendment.
Note also that he notes that the different species of microbes are not as mobile and ubiquitous as we might think, hence the interest in inoculating. In nature (or in cultivated plots), inoculation is undoubtedly done by herbivores (which eat microbes, then defecate them).
The level of carbon sequestration in the soil also greatly depends on which microbes are present.

http://compost.org/English/PDF/WRW_2017 ... Munroe.pdf
http://www.ecofarmingdaily.com/compost- ... -microbes/