Raspberry plantation

Agriculture and soil. Pollution control, soil remediation, humus and new agricultural techniques.
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Did67
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Re: Raspberry plantation




by Did67 » 26/11/17, 19:55

Always in the search for the minimum effort, even if it means being "sub-optimum", I planted the last rows as follows:

a) spread strips of dead leaves mixed with turf

b) in the middle of winter, I pushed the spade into the ground, through the leaves; one stroke of the handle on the left, another on the right to make a crack; I slipped the plant from inside, removed the spade and packed it with my feet ... Put the leaves back ...

c) in the spring, the leaves fading (decomposition), I put hay (the first year)

d) the following autumn, I loaded well in BRF ...

I get raspberries by bucket (second year, but already beautiful harvests, less massive, the first)!

The rising raspberries are quite sensitive to lack of water. Even under this "mulch", the flowers abort in the heat of summer. Production would drop. It is therefore the exception in my vegetable garden: there is drip irrigation to support production. Their rooting is extremely superficial. They only think of one thing: sucker on the sides, to widen the clump. Instead of going down to find water!
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Adrien (ex-nico239)
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Re: Raspberry plantation




by Adrien (ex-nico239) » 26/11/17, 21:46

Paysan.bio wrote:
nico239 wrote:Ok for the notion of curvature ... finally it's like the vines : Mrgreen:

Yes, I bought 10 cut short enough but actually as soon as it pushes I put them together properly ...

What height?


I pick up sitting on a small roulette bench
a lazy bench today
but when I was a peasant he served 14 hours a day for 6 months.

with the bench, 50 70 cm high is fine.


Ok ac ac will limiser at this height .... thank you
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Re: Raspberry plantation




by Did67 » 26/11/17, 21:58

nico239 wrote:
Ok ac ac will limiser at this height .... thank you


Beware: there is a big difference between non-growing varieties and ascending varieties.

The first only produce on the canes of the year n-1. So the size will directly influence the production of the year n: you must leave enough canes and sufficient length ...

The second produce first on the canes of the year n-1, then throughout the seasons on canes appeared soil in year n. And here you have an interest in letting them grow because there will be continuous floral bouquets at the end ... while below, after fertilization, it produces fruit. As you can see on the videos, mine eventually produce rods that have my size (1 m 75).
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Adrien (ex-nico239)
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Re: Raspberry plantation




by Adrien (ex-nico239) » 26/11/17, 22:07

Did67 wrote:Always in the search for the minimum effort, even if it means being "sub-optimum", I planted the last rows as follows:

a) spread strips of dead leaves mixed with turf

b) in the middle of winter, I pushed the spade into the ground, through the leaves; one stroke of the handle on the left, another on the right to make a crack; I slipped the plant from inside, removed the spade and packed it with my feet ... Put the leaves back ...

c) in the spring, the leaves fading (decomposition), I put hay (the first year)

d) the following autumn, I loaded well in BRF ...

I get raspberries by bucket (second year, but already beautiful harvests, less massive, the first)!

The rising raspberries are quite sensitive to lack of water. Even under this "mulch", the flowers abort in the heat of summer. Production would drop. It is therefore the exception in my vegetable garden: there is drip irrigation to support production. Their rooting is extremely superficial. They only think of one thing: sucker on the sides, to widen the clump. Instead of going down to find water!



Ok let's say that there with the leaves as we are invaded it will not be difficult to add shovel ...
But we will add hay.

Uh for watering say that ..... raspberries are under (at the slope) the 15m pit drains ... well I know it's not very glamorous but it's moisture in the slot ground...

Apart from that they are closer to the grove so in the most shaded area without being deprived of sun.

After one year of experience, we have better control over places and exhibitions.

Finally there will be a new tap not far so, unlike last year, less lazy to pull 30 m pipe in the corner if necessary ...

In the whole of the pleasure garden we will be in the second year of "we touch nothing".

To dig the holes of raspberries must not dream I took the electric auger: butter.
While last year in the same corner it was not quite the same even if it was less crowded than in the kitchen garden.

Certainly we did not mulch but just leave the leaves and not to mow and let everything grow that I wanted to push all the wild flora colonized helped begin to revive the soil that does not ask that.

There the carpet of dead leaves will rot until spring ... when we think that many burn them ... oh the waste.

After I do not know if the rigors of winter, although the corner under the trees is rather protected, will not make them suffer ...

To be continued...
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Re: Raspberry plantation




by Adrien (ex-nico239) » 26/11/17, 22:15

Did67 wrote:
nico239 wrote:
Ok ac ac will limiser at this height .... thank you


Beware: there is a big difference between non-growing varieties and ascending varieties.

The first only produce on the canes of the year n-1. So the size will directly influence the production of the year n: you must leave enough canes and sufficient length ...

The second produce first on the canes of the year n-1, then throughout the seasons on canes appeared soil in year n. And here you have an interest in letting them grow because there will be continuous floral bouquets at the end ... while below, after fertilization, it produces fruit. As you can see on the videos, mine eventually produce rods that have my size (1 m 75).


Where it gets complicated Image

I took 10 Inheritance Rubus Idaeus ... at first pick up no?

So the canes of the year n-1 ... well there is not no?

So we can only count on the canes of the year is that it?
But, on the other hand, no more tackling the program or am I wrong?
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Re: Raspberry plantation




by Did67 » 26/11/17, 22:37

nico239 wrote:
I took 10 Inheritance Rubus Idaeus ... at first pick up no?

So the canes of the year n-1 ... well there is not no?

So we can only count on the canes of the year is that it?
But, on the other hand, no more tackling the program or am I wrong?


Verification done (don't forget that I am a "mediocre" gardener), it is indeed a pick-me-up.

You are likely to have a small production on the "ends of cane" that you put in the ground and that you must therefore keep for the "first production" (around June, no doubt, at home).

Then come out canes from all sides, directly from the ground, in the spring. That you let go up. You harvest ... Next winter you size. I waist about the height of my belt. So between 80 cm - 100 cm high. You eliminate the canes that will have produced next year: they desolate ...

I do not practice "arching", but in my opinion you can arch the rods of year n-1 that you leave for the start of production in year n. It forms full of small ramifications on the side, which bear flower buds. To see if there are more. These canes, cut off at the end, do not extend.
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Adrien (ex-nico239)
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Re: Raspberry plantation




by Adrien (ex-nico239) » 26/11/17, 22:56

Ok I will definitely come back at the desired time .... to refresh my memory Image
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Re: Raspberry plantation




by balandar » 26/11/17, 23:36

hello for raspberries do not forget that the stems are alive only on 2 years and after the production of raspberries they die and he pushes new ones that will give next year and so well spacing them otherwise it quickly becomes an impenetrable forest to be able to pick up fruits
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Re: Raspberry plantation




by Did67 » 27/11/17, 08:59

My rows are 1,50 apart, which allows me, at the start of the season, to switch with my riding mower. But then, it "closes", and I only go on foot for the harvest.

Everything that comes out of the ranks is ruthlessly torn off. Raspberry, if you let it go, is the jungle in two or three years. He thinks only of this, suck, instead of taking root!

On the inter-row, I had overseeded white clover (the one that crawls and tramples well), but for lack of light, it regressed and almost disappeared ... My idea was that the inter-row be a nitrogen sensor (symbiotic fixation), while making "circulation", and that by the mowing, I would transfer that on the bands ... It is a little missed. It is a plant that needs light ...
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paysan.bio
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Re: Raspberry plantation




by paysan.bio » 27/11/17, 09:00

I think I did not understand the question about height.
for 50 70 cm, I was talking about the horizontal height that we try to get with the arcure.
I do not cut stems in length for non-rising varieties.
for the ascending varieties, I cut the stems, in November after the first big gels, with 2 buds below the lowest bud that turned into a fruit bouquet.
in general, these two buds have already received a dose of hormones that disrupts them the following year and therefore their production is minimal.
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