P (otager) of P (arouseux) P (artaged) in Champagne

[QuentinDida]

Ah I forgot that yes, yes, thank you for reminding me!

In this case I just keep the idea that a little straw rab in case it will not (too) hurt ...

It seems to me that the same reasoning (or in any case a similar one) applies when we talk about dead leaves picked up on the public highway (oil residues etc.), do you know to what extent? Anyway if we collect them from a public park or other I imagine that it remains a good alternative to straw if I want to give my "mulch" a little woody bonus.

Of course I will try to establish with the mayor a combination to also recover the residues of cutting and pruning, to put at the foot of my future shrubs and fruit ...

For the BRF, moreover, I heard yesterday in a course Marceau Bourdarias that he was much richer when cut by negative temperature (then, and only then, the tree loads its sap into sugars not to freeze ), which would explain the difference in results between Canadians who would make the good BRF in spite of themselves and Europeans whose periods of cuts would be less uniform with respect to temperatures.
- He also questions the "geometric" criterion of the BRF according to which the diameter of the branch should be of a certain maximum size; which does not take into account the different tree architecture strategies where some store reserves all in one block and others alternately from one layer to the other ...

(here the link of this formation:

)

[Did67]

It seems to me that the same reasoning (or in any case a similar one) applies when we talk about dead leaves picked up on the public highway (oil residues etc.), do you know to what extent? Anyway if we collect them from a public park or other I imagine that it remains a good alternative to straw if I want to give my "mulch" a little woody bonus.

Of course I will try to establish with the mayor a combination to also recover the residues of cutting and pruning, to put at the foot of my future shrubs and fruit ...

Today, the most serious pollutant, lead (which contains many urban gardens located along highways or expressways ...) is no longer to fear ...

Remain the particles. On trees, when the leaves fall in autumn, they must have been "washed out" by all the autumn rains (in our climates) ...

NOx, a major human health problem, is also formed naturally. They are oxidized to nitrates if they reach the ground. The rains are today a form of nitrogen fertilization (10 to 15 units / ha and per year in our region)! All rains "pick up" pollutants from the air.

The S derivatives are in danger in a kitchen garden, the sulfur oxidizes very quickly ... There are sulphates in all the soils, the plants need them. Sometimes even the soil lacks ...

Except to be green khmer and hold his breath for fear of being polluted, in a kitchen garden, unlike babies who breathe the polluted air of cities, I royally neglect this problem!

[Did67]

For the BRF, moreover, I heard yesterday in a course Marceau Bourdarias that he was much richer when cut by negative temperature (then, and only then, the tree loads its sap into sugars not to freeze ), which would explain the difference in results between Canadians who would make the good BRF in spite of themselves and Europeans whose periods of cuts would be less uniform with respect to temperatures.

He allows himself to think that.

"the" then only "the tree is loaded with sugars" seems to me a shortcut:

- the tree "stores" useful substances, including sugars not necessarily in a soluble form, amino acids, minerals as soon as the leaves change color; he puts in reserve what he will need to build new leaves in the spring, very quickly, when he has no leaves (therefore no photosynthesis)

- for having collected birch sap, actually sweet, the flow stops when it is cold; it happened to us at the beginning of March this year ... This is the mobilization of reserves, stocks above ...

- but that does not play in the BRF: it does not matter the compartment and the form in which the "nutrients" are found, the molecules, you grind and "'energy and matter" is there ...

- for me, the difference between the Canadians and the "BRF forestry" and the Europeans is above all that, in many tests, we call BRF a bit of rubbish; I found references where it was mentioned that "BRF" was "green woody waste from recycling centers" (therefore more hedges than trees, often pruned in green, etc ...) and rarely "good BRF" ...

- indeed, we should not focus on the diameter, there I agree ... The "5 to 7 cm" are rather to be seen as a "maximum": up to these diameters, we are sure to have only "living wood" (sapwood) and not a part of "dead wood" (heartwood) ...

- this is especially true for hardwoods, softwoods functioning a little differently (they do not lose their "leaves" - the needles - and therefore do not have this mechanism). I'm waiting for the leaves to fall. And I try to spread it right away, because very quickly the organisms will dismantle that, even in heaps.

[QuentinDida]

1) do not put all your eggs in one basket
you have a good grip with the town hall, so propose to recover all the wood shreds to cover a part of your wasteland, you put a good layer at least 10 cm, and you enlarge according to the arrivals, it is a parcel for later (year + 2), if you go to the straw and you can have a lot, you prepare another plot (year + 1) and the one you want to grow in 1 year you put it in hay, your straw and your shredded wood you can enrich with grass clippings
2) for your fruit trees especially not to shade your south wall, keep this sunny wall for your tomato crops, there you can already prepare the soil and see to find something to do the roof against the rain, we sell 3 polycarbonate plates or 4m long on 1 m wide, with some plates you could already get a good length
feed your soil, crops will come after

What I would like to do would look like this:

Untitled.png (169.08 KiB) Viewed 2899 times

So it would be rather the tomato corner that would shade the tree, but probably not dramatically. I like to say that the thing does not go to the wall since it allows good air circulation to the right and left (in the case for example where we would end up having a glass wall also on the facade of the something to have a quasi-greenhouse).

I looked at the polycarbonate suddenly, it seems very interesting to me, if it is tinted does it lose its "greenhouse" function? (just opposite, a building was made by the municipality in green polycarbonate, it would be nice to use the same shade for a continuity effect)

[QuentinDida]

Ok thank you very much for these answers Did!

I will continue to study the thing then to understand all these elements

[Moindreffor]

I looked at the polycarbonate suddenly, it seems very interesting to me, if it is tinted does it lose its "greenhouse" function? (just opposite, a building was made by the municipality in green polycarbonate, it would be nice to use the same shade for a continuity effect)

take some transparency, because your vegetables are going to need all the wavelengths to push, a green poly absorbs everything except green or blue and yellow so you'll lose too much
you plant your tomatoes at 30-40 cm of the wall it is enough for the circulation of air

[Did67]

Absolutely: green plants are green because among all the colors of the light spectrum, it is the one that they absorb poorly ... Unlike red or purple.

For this reason, today, horticultural lighting is predominantly red / purple LEDs.

"Green" greenhouses are the very example of a real false good idea (we think "naturally" that it is suitable for plants!).

[Did67]

you plant your tomatoes at 30-40 cm of the wall it is enough for the circulation of air

In this case, you can be less careful: if "elsewhere", in a tunnel or under a roof without walls, it is the air circulation which evacuates the humidity from the air and limits the condensation, here the wall placed on the south side will be warmer, and it is the heat radiation at night / early morning that prevents the dew point from being reached.

There, on the contrary, I would be of the opinion that it is necessary to be "close" to the wall, like the trellised fruit trees.

[Moindreffor]

you plant your tomatoes at 30-40 cm of the wall it is enough for the circulation of air

In this case, you can be less careful: if "elsewhere", in a tunnel or under a roof without walls, it is the air circulation which evacuates the humidity from the air and limits the condensation, here the wall placed on the south side will be warmer, and it is the heat radiation at night / early morning that prevents the dew point from being reached.

There, on the contrary, I would be of the opinion that it is necessary to be "close" to the wall, like the trellised fruit trees.

I would have said the same thing, but picking up the tomatoes like fruit trees seemed to be grieving our gardener, so I tried to limit the gap without too much being directive

I am myself thinking of a greenhouse project and I wanted to find something to occupy the north wall with a heat accumulator, you have an idea Didier apart mount a wall Trombe?

[Did67]

What I would do, if I were young, brave, curious ...

- north side, an earthen wall (planks, a mix of clay + straw trampled between these boards) quite thick (about 1 / 2 m thick, maybe a mini-excavator)
- a "half-greenhouse" arch on top, so as to exceed the wall by a good meter to protect it from the rain on the north side; and like a back-to-back greenhouse on the south side ... [so with a second-hand greenhouse, we do two lengths ...]
- well anchored (twists in the ground)
- grow tomatoes south

It seems to me a good compromise question "quantity of work / capacity of thermal storage - cost" ...