My kitchen garden of the least effort

[Moindreffor]

For the "rim", wouldn't it be easier to make a second part, which "clips" into the first? It doesn't need to hold tight, I think ...

Adrien does not want ledges, so that the slugs cannot rest too much on it, but solid foundations to thwart the tunnelers

if not, I understood your wall story, I see what is possible to do the simplest

[Did67]

Adrien does not want ledges, so that the slugs cannot rest too much on it, but solid foundations to thwart the tunnelers

This is defended: what is the point of complicating their way to ... drowning !!!! Let them go all schuss !!!! And without brakes, if possible ...

[Adrien (ex-nico239)]

by force I no longer know which edges we are talking about ...


For the edges of "moats" the more they are fine (even sharp) the less the slugs can attempt the "crossing"

So identical to those I order is PERFECT.
Compared to the photo NO hole in the "moat" it flows naturally.
Compared to the photo the ratings I gave above are more important than those of my current molds (and the photo) which are a bit too small even if they remain effective overall

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Then compared to the photo below (by turning the foot of course) we lower a "wall" protruding by 2cm (relative to the bottom of the "moat") from below in the extension of the outer edge

It will do
1. a kind of earth anchor circle (or square)
2. possibly a small slug barrier underground
I put 2cm at random.
Maybe it's better 3 .... or not.

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Once again that the mold is round or square and that the staves are round or at right angles we do not care we take the simplest and the cheapest

[Adrien (ex-nico239)]

For the "rim", wouldn't it be easier to make a second part, which "clips" into the first? It doesn't need to hold tight, I think ...

That is to say

[Did67]

That is to say

Forget it. I reasoned wrong. I was thinking of an outward rim, at the top of the outer edge of the moat (which you wish to have sharp if I understand correctly).

As said, the slugs will drown in the water. So why thwart the approach, by making the construction more complex. I was next to the plate!

[Adrien (ex-nico239)]

That is to say

Forget it. I reasoned wrong. I was thinking of an outward rim, at the top of the outer edge of the moat (which you wish to have sharp if I understand correctly).

As said, the slugs will drown in the water. So why thwart the approach, by making the construction more complex. I was next to the plate!

Ah got it ....

This would undoubtedly be the best of the best, that is to say combine water PLUS an inverted rim such as flanges or metallic border.

The problem is that in the manufacturing version the mold has no height, unlike the 2 barriers in the photo below.

An inverted ledge can only be conceived with a minimum of height to play its role.

On the other hand, it could be envisaged with a foot model like the ones I currently use.

But the water is so effective that I think it's enough.

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I tried to use the flanges upside down .... using the channel to put water in it, but the channel is a little too small.
The collar must be perfectly flat ... etc etc it is a little boring as installation, more than the molds in any case.

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[Adrien (ex-nico239)]

The advantage of mussels is that from the moment you create “individual” kinds of mussels for ONE salad or ONE cabbage ....

You can also DREAM of a mold of 30cm x 30cm (or more) for example to make radish squares .... or carrots.

I'm sure I'm going to get the idea

But how do you drop something like that?

[Moindreffor]

I thought about your "wall"

if you tell me that you want a 4cm wide moat and a 4cm wide hole, that makes a total of 12cm, so if you take a 120cm PVC pipe and cut cylinders, in addition you can choose the height and either stick or bury it and just put the mold on it and that's it

otherwise for the size of the mold we will be limited by the width of the machine but we can make an oval, it could make you the size of a planter on the ground surface with the moat around

[Adrien (ex-nico239)]

I thought about your "wall"

if you tell me that you want a 4cm wide moat and a 4cm wide hole, that makes a total of 12cm, so if you take a 120cm PVC pipe and cut cylinders, in addition you can choose the height and either stick or bury it and just put the mold on it and that's it

otherwise for the size of the mold we will be limited by the width of the machine but we can make an oval, it could make you the size of a planter on the ground surface with the moat around

Why not in this case better take the inside diameter of the PVC and slide the mold inside

The main thing is that the upper edge of the stave is not at the same level as the upper edge of the PVC.
Because otherwise we will lose interest in the fine and "cutting" edge of the moat.

In this case we can also use any cylinder of 12 x in solid material: PVC, iron, cans?
Or conversely make a mold of 11.8 in diameter

It simplifies the mold a bit.
Ok to remove this bottom angle if it suits the designer.
We fall back on a simple, round or square savarin pan with thin edges

For larger molds there it is actually the technique that controls.
For me round, oval, square or rectangular I don't care.

The only thing that matters is having a moat.

[Moindreffor]

then news of technology, I modeled the mold, it only remains to print it, there is more than 10 hours so I have to do this at home but since I do not have finished the son's office the printer is in his room and vacation forces he does not get up early enough to do that without it ending too late but it is progressing

otherwise, in the vegetable garden, I had to sow but I was busy elsewhere, I should be able to do that soon

and on the side of the sweet potatoes, a door of the buds but no roots, another of very small roots but no buds and the last one a beginning of root, so I hope that it will continue in this direction