Manufacturing a cane planting for practitioners phénoculteurs?

[olivier75]

Didier,

Have you tried it in the hay? I think the difficulty, or the difference with existing rods, is to enter with a point which spreads the fibers, without having to "dig" to escape the fiber across.
This model seems to me simplified to the maximum, I really like the blocking.

Olivier.

[Did67]

We tried it on a straw board (with straw), but already well packed / decomposed ... It goes without problem. I'm not worried...

I think that one more would be, at the end of the swivel spout, to put a small "blade". Like that, once planted, when you press the pedal, it would make a sort of groove extending the planting "hole" ... This groove would be a "fault" for the roots to sink into.

[olivier75]

I see, I do not think, with the blade to do better than the photo, it will just need a wider and adjustable stop for the thickness of the hay and maybe an "automatic" opening system.
I have to reconnect my computer with my drawing software to go further.
Olivier.

[Did67]

You will have to see what the planting hole will look like in a soil that has never been worked!

And if it had to be too "smooth", I think that teeth at the end of the beak could limit this smoothing, which could slow down rooting ...

But it's just an idea!

[Did67]

For smoothing, it is easy to remedy this by welding a few teeth at the end of the nozzle ...

Sorry, I had zapped this message and fell immediately on that of Olivier.

You already said everything!

I think that for "phenoculture" this is an "adaptation" to consider.

[olivier75]

Does the soil smooth more in an unworked soil, it depends more on the terrain? I think a tip that goes down is more useful, which does not prevent trying teeth, a tapping beast allows you to test.
I read a long time ago the power of perforation of the main root of trees, I no longer have the figures but it had marked me.
It was after that that I invested in forest pots.
Olivier.

[Did67]

Yes, I think that an unworked soil becomes smoother: generally, these machines are used after loosening; subsoiling in forests, passage of strawberries in market gardening. The ground is then very loose and opens "like that" ...

In less worked soil, probably wet at the end of winter, I fear a smoothing. But of course, you have to try.

There, during my test, it was.

Then, like you, I am impressed by the capacity of the roots: at home, vegetables have perforated polystyrene tubs that I used as boxes; the abandoned tomato plants took root in my "never-worked meadow soil", rather compact, which lined the bottom of my frames!

But on the other hand, the idea, behind these plantations, was not to fall behind compared to a conventional method. And this is what must be evaluated ...

Again, these are questions I ask myself, even if I write in the affirmative. "You have to see ..." first.

[Ahmed]

In any case there will not be a single answer to this question, because this phenomenon of smoothing of the walls is highly dependent on the clay content. In my sandy soil, I do not fear it at all!

[olivier75]

Yes, I will do tapping to try, it will surely be able to interchange or remove according to the conditions.
Olivier.

[Did67]

Absolutely.

As this will depend a lot on the humidity of the soil: what will happen for the first plantings at the end of winter will not happen for the plantings at the end of summer ...

I'm also not convinced that smoothing is so unacceptable: a damn smooth dibbler when you turn it before removing it, to prevent the ground from sticking.