Make a bone grinder for the garden

[chatelot16]

this type of grinder is good for things that have to be cut with sharp and precisely adjusted steel blades ... it does not support what is hard and abrasive ... for bone especially if you want to be able to pass dry bone, it's the same problem as breaking pebbles
the mortar and pestle is the oldest and simplest solution ... whether by hand or motorized: the advantage is that there is no minimum power ... the lower the power, the more it's slow but it still works

the more modern solution is the hammer mill, but it must run fast so consume more power ... if it does not run fast enough it does not work at all ... it must be big enough to have enough space to put the whole bones in it ... making a hammer crusher too small will require you to start breaking the bones by hand so that it fits in

another type of crusher that I like, which was used to break stones and ores: blake crusher ... or jaw crusher: much more energy efficient than hammer mills, but type of machine completely forgotten because that not fast enough ... there were some in the quarries to make the gravel with large pebbles

I also saw a much smaller jaw crusher in an old prolabo catalog: it would be perfect for home use ... but it is lab equipment that was overpriced ... and nowhere to be found

[Christophe]

Yes, the manual forging hammer is the best for occasional grinding ...

[chatelot16]

example of a small jaw crusher found by chance while looking for something else
http://www2.hoskin.qc.ca/productsInfo.p ... %20mobiles

[izentrop]

The fact of using organic matter as natural fertilizer and no fossil fertilizer,

... where organic fertilizers are reported, deficiencies are infrequent ...
phosphorus and potash requirements are largely met compared to nitrogen requirements.

http://www.quebecvrai.org/getfile.php?f ... anique.pdf

Unless there is a proven deficiency, adding crushed bones risks causing an imbalance and is therefore unnecessary, right?

[chatelot16]

Yes, the manual forging hammer is the best for occasional grinding ...

do not confuse power hammer https://www.google.fr/search?q=marteau+ ... CLsQsAQINQ and pestle and mortar https://www.google.fr/search?q=pilon+mo ... wQ_AUIBigB

[Did67]

The fact of using organic matter as natural fertilizer and no fossil fertilizer,

... where organic fertilizers are reported, deficiencies are infrequent ...
phosphorus and potash requirements are largely met compared to nitrogen requirements.

http://www.quebecvrai.org/getfile.php?f ... anique.pdf

Unless there is a proven deficiency, adding crushed bones risks causing an imbalance and is therefore unnecessary, right?

The quote is a bit too short. Or questionable.

In a "cyclic" garden, what is "exported" (and does not return to the garden) takes elements. Who therefore do not return to the garden.

Therefore in all rigor, such a garden is impoverished.

If we start from a soil poor in such an element (eg P), at best, we only "almost" recycle this poverty. "Almost" because a part is exported. And poverty since the soil is poor and nothing is added.

This reasoning is valid only for the elements with "telluric cycle" (whose cycle takes place in earth). It is not for the N. And of course, silly for the three major elements C, H and O [taken from air / water by plants].

To this is added the contributions by the elements of external origin to the system (here external to my garden). So, in my case, mainly hay, incidentally the purchased vegetable peelings (which is not much). The BRF and the ashes.

It turns out that my hay is rich in nitrogen and ... very poor in phosphorus.

I also bring the ashes from my pellet boiler: rich in K, in Ca, fairly poor in P ...

BRF is quite poor in everything (except lignin, so C, H and O - therefore in energy).

Conclusion:

- I "enter" a lot of N in my system: hay and legumes (clover, beans, ...)
- I got a lot of K: ashes and hay ...
- I enter little P

So I think the P is becoming the weak element in my system.

Hence this concern to "recycle" the bones.

The "generalities" resulting from the "main principles" do not advance my schmilblick. Always reason instead of "believing" or "Googling" ready-made solutions ...

[izentrop]

The attached document is not intended only for Quebecers.

The organic matter in question is compost and farmyard manure. The quantity supplied is based on the necessary supply of N. As part of the N is volatilized during storage, it is necessary to compensate for both P and K and the trace elements are increased and necessarily sufficient. That's how I understood it.

Obviously with only a contribution of meadow hay should be done, knowing that the average contribution in P is 7 kg / t of dry matter, if the contribution is insufficient, it is necessary to add compost.

For 2 bales of 120 kg, the contribution is about 1.7 kg of directly assimilable phosphorus.

One cubic meter of BRF would be equivalent to about 250 kg of dry wood4 or 370 kg wet, initially containing about 1,7 kg of nitrogen. When broken down, these 370 kg of BRF yields 75 kg of stable humus, which contains approximately 3,5 kg of nitrogen (4 to 5%).
https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bois_ram% ... am.C3.A9al

[chatelot16]

simpler way of seeing it: when you have bones in your kitchen waste, it doesn't hurt to put them in the garden! it will always be more useful there than in the trash ... it is not with a chicken or a rabbit from time to time that we will make an excess of phosphorus and eutrophication of the local river

Another remark on all these general figures on the rates of this or that in different thing ... I trust it a lot! why would it be constant according to the places or the conditions of culture?

in other techniques, each time that we are satisfied with general figures repeated in the books and that I find a means of measuring I find figures much more variable, and often contradictory with the generalities

in culture the measurements are even more lacking than in other fields ... we get stuck by the high prices of the analysis made in some laboratory

if we knew how to analyze the phosphorus in the leaves, we would immediately know if the plant finds the pahosphorus it needs or if we are approaching a lack

the document of the previous message confirms the difficulty of interpretation of the soil analysis ... we do not know if the chemical element levels measured by analysis are in a useful form or not ... by analyzing the sheets we should see what the plant finds plant finds

[izentrop]

Still in the same document:

... in some cases, market gardening in regions where there is little livestock for example, it is
the organic restitution may have been inadequate, which may have created some deficiencies. But even under these
conditions, there was not necessarily a deficiency. In the medium term, your own well-planned organic contributions
should easily swell the soil reserve.
There remain situations where the deficiencies are real. First of all, it will surely not be a generalized deficiency for all
trace elements: they will most often be limited to one or two elements. In such cases, as we have
said above, it is more effective and less expensive to intervene in correction rather than prevention, and this after
have clearly identified the deficiency.

No need for a soil test to identify a deficiency http://www.gerbeaud.com/jardin/fiches/c ... ,1543.html

[chatelot16]

I have already seen explanations for changing the color of the leaves in case of phosphorus deficiency: darker green or purple ... but I'm afraid that it will only be visible when the deficiency is too serious ... the advantage of an analysis would be to know if we are far from the deficiency

in the previous document it is a solution with bone powder or natural phosphate ... I am not in favor of natural phospahte which are the raw product of phosphate mines, full of undesirable product: natural does not mean quality .. . a phosphate fertilizer produced with the same phosphate ore contains less undesirable product ... see that phosphate fertilizer factories reject large quantities of fluosilicic acid, calcium sulphate, radioactive product ... so much product undesirable that one puts in his garden when one uses a whole rock phosphate