Lazy garden: questions STONES / LIERRE / CANICULE?

[Theine]

Ok thanks for the note on the sheets, "be chafoin".
And Moindreffor, don't you say small waterings, rather a big watering from time to time? It suits me you will tell me in terms of timing ;-) but suddenly, I water generous at the foot only? at the foot AND around the foot or THAT around the foot?

[Moindreffor]

around the foot carefully avoiding the leaves and rather in the morning not too early so that the leaves can dry quickly in case, it does not need moisture on the leaves to avoid the development of late blight (at least for tomatoes)

[jft78]

around the foot carefully avoiding the leaves and rather in the morning not too early so that the leaves can dry quickly in case, it does not need moisture on the leaves to avoid the development of late blight (at least for tomatoes)

Does this mean that automatic watering (porous hose or drip) is less effective than manual watering?
I ask myself this question in the context of an enlargement of the area actually cultivated. Manual watering (in the evening for me) would become a major constraint.

[phil53]

Jft78, do not worry too much does what is most suitable for you practice. As Didier often says, nature is resilient, it will compensate in one way or another. What is certain is that plants need water.

[olivier75]

JFT78,
Automatic watering, drip, these are techniques, behind you can program every 12h or every week, 2mn or an hour, or with manual triggering, you pass and trigger, often for half an hour in automatic shutdown, if it need it.
Olivier.

[Moindreffor]

around the foot carefully avoiding the leaves and rather in the morning not too early so that the leaves can dry quickly in case, it does not need moisture on the leaves to avoid the development of late blight (at least for tomatoes)

Does this mean that automatic watering (porous hose or drip) is less effective than manual watering?
I ask myself this question in the context of an enlargement of the area actually cultivated. Manual watering (in the evening for me) would become a major constraint.

you can manually water from above or with porous hose or drippers from below but not in the evening, not too early in the morning to avoid any stagnation of humidity during the cool periods of the day

[jft78]

Yes manual triggering after a short passage in the morning, it is possible, even if in the morning I am often on the run The bus and the train are not waiting ...
This year, if we still have the heat wave, I could already observe the morning during the weekend.
For the moment, with what we just received last week, the watering can is still tidy.

[Moindreffor]

Yes manual triggering after a short passage in the morning, it is possible, even if in the morning I am often on the run The bus and the train are not waiting ...
This year, if we still have the heat wave, I could already observe the morning during the weekend.
For the moment, with what we just received last week, the watering can is still tidy.

+1

[Did67]

Does this mean that automatic watering (porous hose or drip) is less effective than manual watering?
I ask myself this question in the context of an enlargement of the area actually cultivated. Manual watering (in the evening for me) would become a major constraint.

Let's reason!

a) A soil has an "RFU": an easily usable reserve (of water). It is the amount of water that the soil can store between the "wiping" (once the excess water has withdrawn when a soil has been soaked) and the moment when the water becomes difficult to access. plants (shortly before wilting).

b) This RFU is very variable according to the texture of the soil (sandy - weak! - to silty - high), according to its thickness, according to the "pebble" content, according to the organic matter content. I wrote it elsewhere, it can vary by a factor of 1 to 10! This is to say if a general "recommendation" is bullshit!

c) Most plants are mycorrhizal; the symbiosis allows them to find water (and minerals) thanks to the inextricable network and "passing everywhere" of mycorrhizae.

d) Mildew only develops if there are liquid drops on the leaf for a few hours (7 to 8, depending on the temperature). Many fungal diseases are triggered or facilitated by moisture on the leaves.

But in a few cases it is the high temperatures / water stress that are "problems" for plants such as lettuce that come into bloom / seed. There, sprinkling in the middle of the afternoon refreshes and avoids water stress. They do not live long enough to usually fall victim to fungi.

So there is no standard answer!

Let's observe!

a) Who saw farmers get up every morning to irrigate the same field, everyday a little ???

b) Except the market gardeners producing lettuces (perhaps some other sensitive vegetables like them).

Let us conclude:

a) Irrigating means refueling the RFU from the ground.

b) The most convenient is a "water tower" calculated according to the characteristics of the soil: once in a while, we put the "package". And the plant-soil system is quiet! Until the next round.

I avoid wetting the foliage by drip. I put in large doses, because then, once the soil is "full", it can dry out on the surface, which slows down evaporation, even if the hay protects it!

c) Except lettuces and the like ...

d) And we are far, very far, advice often heard or read ... Good old "beliefs" and "grandfather's recipes". It is in any case, where I water (greenhouse essentially), my rule of conduct - except that I do not sprinkle the lettuces, which therefore rise - no pressure and cohabitation.

If you have a "normal" RFU, you put a good dose on the weekends and basta!

[Moindreffor]

for lettuces an artificial or natural shade (tomato plant, beans with oar for example) can also favor a not rise in temperature, except if it is all the mass of air which is hot as during a heat wave, there only passing through a dispersion of water will lower the temperature