Grafting, budding, layering and cuttings ...

Agriculture and soil. Pollution control, soil remediation, humus and new agricultural techniques.
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guibnd
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Grafting, budding, layering and cuttings ...




by guibnd » 26/05/18, 19:59

I propose a new subject that is close to my heart; the multiplication of plants, trees and shrubs ... by grafting, budding, layering or cuttings which I sometimes practice successfully.
last year, I grafted and successfully crowned the apple trees reinette du mans, reinette de caux. I missed cherry pigeon heart.
this year, on May 13th, I grafted the apple paws of the wolf and short hanged in a crown (of which I attach a photo).

Looking forward to sharing tips and tricks if some of the grafters are among you ...

20180524_205725.jpg
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Twandering with clayey and fertile wheat, full of water in winter, cold in spring, crushed and cracked in summer,
but that was before the Didite ...
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Re: grafting, budding, layering and cutting ...




by Forhorse » 27/05/18, 00:46

I tried to graft several times and it never worked. Respect to those who arrive there.
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Re: grafting, budding, layering and cutting ...




by guibnd » 27/05/18, 16:29

Forhorse wrote:I tried to graft several times and it never worked. Respect to those who arrive there.

I'm not going to tell you that it's easy but it's not as complicated as you think ... (It's a response from Norman that : Mrgreen: we understand each other :D )

There are a few rules to follow, for example the crown transplant for large rootstock diameters as I did in the photo.
Old cider apple trees 60 years old full of mistletoe, we cut them close to the ground, some are distributed from the ground, we choose a straight discharge which will make the trunk, we raise it by removing the eyes on the trunk regularly to force it to climb (I wanted to graft at 2m to redo apple trees in the open wind but graft apples with knives this time.

The most important thing is to graft AT THE RIGHT TIME, for crown grafting is when the bark peels off easily, not before mid April until May 15 or even May 30 (unlike other grafts that you have to do from mid-March (in splits for example)

And also, cut and keep the grafts cool from January / February, lying in the ground / sand at the foot of a wall to the north (some put in the fridge) so that the graft is late in vegetation compared to rootstock that has already started.

These are small details that are important ...

There are graft exchanges where you can get old varieties and specific rootstocks (adapted to its soil, climate, ... for example)
In these graft grants, there are often courses - grafting demonstrations ...
I hope to make you aware of these techniques by demystifying them because we can thus preserve old varieties and perpetuate the diversity of fruit varieties from our regions ...
I draw your attention to the budding in summer (July August), for example for roses and fruit too ...

It seems to me to have seen a swelling of bud of the grafts in photo in my first message, it is a good omen ... See you soon for a photo as soon as it is significant ...
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Twandering with clayey and fertile wheat, full of water in winter, cold in spring, crushed and cracked in summer,
but that was before the Didite ...
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Re: grafting, budding, layering and cutting ...




by Forhorse » 27/05/18, 17:10

I have an old apple orchard, but most of the trees are in poor condition. Either they are too old and break under the weight of the fruit or during winter storms, or they are rotted with mistletoe.
But I would like to keep the varieties of apple present (old and local variety which make the character of the cider that we make here) so it will really be necessary that I manage to succeed these transplants. I still have around thirty viable trees, but I lose them every year. :?

My big problem I think is grafts. The last time I kept them in the fridge in a little damp cotton, but I think they were already dead by the time of the transplant.
Either learning to graft does not seem complicated, but selecting the grafts, cutting them at the right time, keeping them correctly, and especially knowing at the time of the graft if they are still viable or not, it doesn’t don't improvise and that's what I would need to learn.
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Re: grafting, budding, layering and cutting ...




by Ahmed » 27/05/18, 20:03

The advice of Guibnd are good and it is important to follow them. Another important recommendation is to make the living tissues of the two plants coincide *: this is not mechanical welding, but surgery. This last point is obtained by an adaptation of the size of the graft and by an adapted positioning. Good hygiene is also essential and also good protection against drying out of the graft.
For the graft removal, it must be done during the vegetative rest season, which is not very restrictive (for the majority of grafts). Storage is done in the fridge, in a polyethylene bag and in the presence of a damp absorbent substance (cloths, paper, foam). It is important that the rootstock is well in sap ** at the time of the operation and that the graft is well at rest (except for certain specific types of grafting); these conditions are more difficult to obtain in the spring, because the temperature is quite random at this time. On the other hand, these transplants can also be done at the end of August (they are said to be with a dormant eye ***): the temperature is no longer a concern and the humidity (the other factor influencing the flow of sap) is easy to control, since it is enough to water a few days before in case of drought.
Although it does not apply to all configurations, I particularly like the escutcheon veneer grafting, which also does not require a lot of dexterity, because it is practiced with a double graft **** and quite "automatically".

Regarding the cuttings, the reaction of the various plant species is very variable. If you are not sure of mastering the question, it is often advantageous to fall back on layering which is a kind of cuttings fed by the mother plant: this avoids the branch to dry out before being able to emit its roots. The multiplicative coefficient is generally lower than the cuttings, but for small quantities this is not a problem.


* The fabrics must be correctly arranged in relation to the physiology of the plant and not aim for an outcrop as it is sought in carpentry!
** It is important both to be able to lift the bark (but certain types of grafting do not require this situation) without damaging the tissues, but also to obtain very rapid healing (and therefore avoid drying of the graft, cause of many failures).
*** In the spring, the bud (eye) of the graft will open (growing eye), in the fall, this same bud will not grow until the following year, it is therefore qualified as "dormant".
**** This type of grafting machine is sometimes difficult to find and expensive, but it is possible to make one yourself very simply: if some are interested, I will explain how to get there, as I did a long time ago.. : roll: .
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Re: grafting, budding, layering and cutting ...




by guibnd » 27/05/18, 22:25

Forhorse wrote:I have an old apple orchard, but most of the trees are in poor condition. Either they are too old and break under the weight of the fruit or during winter storms, or they are rotted with mistletoe.
But I would like to keep the varieties of apple present (old and local variety which make the character of the cider that we make here) so it will really be necessary that I manage to succeed these transplants. I still have around thirty viable trees, but I lose them every year. :?

My big problem I think is grafts. The last time I kept them in the fridge in a little damp cotton, but I think they were already dead by the time of the transplant.
Either learning to graft does not seem complicated, but selecting the grafts, cutting them at the right time, keeping them correctly, and especially knowing at the time of the graft if they are still viable or not, it doesn’t don't improvise and that's what I would need to learn.

It is a very good initiative to keep the old varieties for cider!
We too, when we decided to cut the last rotten apple cider apple trees, we thought there was nothing left to save but, surprise, suckers are distributed the following year!
Even if the aerial part was eaten away by this mess of mistletoe, the root system was there and powerful !!
But when the tree is weakened, it is indeed difficult to recover quality and viable grafts.
I have seen varieties of apple cider in graft purses, in particular that of Saint Cyr la Rosiere 61 at the ecomuseum of the perch at the priory of Sainte Gauburge ...
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Twandering with clayey and fertile wheat, full of water in winter, cold in spring, crushed and cracked in summer,
but that was before the Didite ...
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guibnd
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Re: grafting, budding, layering and cutting ...




by guibnd » 27/05/18, 23:01

Ahmed wrote: Although it does not apply to all configurations, I particularly like the escutcheon veneer grafting, which also does not require a lot of dexterity, because it is practiced with a double graft **** and quite "automatically" ..

:P yes Ahmed, I also have a soft spot for the sleeping eye patch in the summer, I did a lot of rose stems at one time this way.
The climatic conditions on the day of grafting are also important; avoid a rainy, windy or too sunny day.
Layering is really very easy, especially if the plant has flexible branches that can be bent towards the ground, blackcurrants are often layered on their own, for example. Otherwise, you can try air layering.
I have two walnut trees to transplant one of these days ... A transplant deemed to be difficult. If you have any tips on this. These are 2 tall stem walnut trees that I had bought already grafted which have not resumed after planting, they start off from the base so goodbye the grafted variety : Cry:
but I have grafts on site (the 6 others have taken over / Parisian, franquette and a pollinator whose name I forgot).
There is so much to say about grafting and so on ...

In fact, I learned with my Dad when I was a child and I came back for a few years, it quickly returns what you learn as a kid!

News from the crown transplant on Sunday May 13th that I posted in the first message (wolf's paw apple). The buds are budding ... But beware, it is not yet won! It may be a false start, it must be welded well ... To be continued ...
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Twandering with clayey and fertile wheat, full of water in winter, cold in spring, crushed and cracked in summer,
but that was before the Didite ...
Ahmed
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Re: grafting, budding, layering and cutting ...




by Ahmed » 27/05/18, 23:15

Warning! I spoke of a graft-on-crest patch and not of a graft-on crest! I also practiced the latter a little which is widely used on roses, as you mention.
The grafting in escutcheon veneer is precisely suited to walnut (but can also be used successfully on other fruit trees) and this greatly simplifies the operation. I wrote an article about it in "forum grafting ", but this site is no longer available.
In the dormant eye variant, the graft is removed at the time of grafting; it is important to keep these grafts moist for the short time between removal and installation: sensitive material! Another reason for the failures in the matter is that the books which expose the method do not mention a small knack absolutely necessary for the success of the transplant.
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guibnd
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Re: grafting, budding, layering and cutting ...




by guibnd » 27/05/18, 23:27

Ahmed wrote:Warning! I spoke of a graft-on-crest patch and not of a graft-on crest! I also practiced the latter a little which is widely used on roses, as you mention.
The grafting in escutcheon veneer is precisely suited to walnut (but can also be used successfully on other fruit trees) and this greatly simplifies the operation. I wrote an article about it in "forum grafting ", but this site is no longer available.
In the dormant eye variant, the graft is removed at the time of grafting; it is important to keep these grafts moist for the short time between removal and installation: sensitive material! Another reason for the failures in the matter is that the books which expose the method do not mention a small knack absolutely necessary for the success of the transplant.


Yes indeed, : Idea: the graft in escutcheon veneer is indeed different from the graft in escutcheon that I practice on roses!
I saw that the veneer is also used for the olive tree, it would be good for my walnut trees !! ...
you advise me what optimal diameter of the rootstock?
and the little trick in question, you tell me : Mrgreen:
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Twandering with clayey and fertile wheat, full of water in winter, cold in spring, crushed and cracked in summer,
but that was before the Didite ...
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guibnd
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Re: grafting, budding, layering and cutting ...




by guibnd » 27/05/18, 23:31

wolf paw apple crown transplant performed on May 13, we are on May 27, it's budding :P
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20180527_180632.jpg
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Twandering with clayey and fertile wheat, full of water in winter, cold in spring, crushed and cracked in summer,
but that was before the Didite ...

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