Grafting, budding, layering and cuttings ...

Agriculture and soil. Pollution control, soil remediation, humus and new agricultural techniques.
Ahmed
Econologue expert
Econologue expert
posts: 12298
Registration: 25/02/08, 18:54
Location: Burgundy
x 2963

Re: grafting, budding, layering and cuttings ...




by Ahmed » 01/06/18, 14:48

I admit that my memories are quite old and, with this reservation, I do not find these dimensions inappropriate, because this process tolerates a lot of plasticity.
0 x
"Please don't believe what I'm telling you."
User avatar
guibnd
Éconologue good!
Éconologue good!
posts: 270
Registration: 24/07/17, 14:58
Location: Normandy - eure
x 68

Re: grafting, budding, layering and cuttings ...




by guibnd » 01/06/18, 14:54

we have clarified a lot of details ... I think I will soon get started for walnut trees, driven by the success of apple paws wolf and short hanged red ... thank you Ahmed for these precious subtleties
0 x
Twandering with clayey and fertile wheat, full of water in winter, cold in spring, crushed and cracked in summer,
but that was before the Didite ...
Ahmed
Econologue expert
Econologue expert
posts: 12298
Registration: 25/02/08, 18:54
Location: Burgundy
x 2963

Re: grafting, budding, layering and cuttings ...




by Ahmed » 02/06/18, 20:16

I am duplicating here what I wrote in the thread "Which crusher for BRF?", Since it may hold more the attention of those who are interested in this one:
A lazy tip for those who wish to replace their box hedge with a similar plant, but who does not attract the European moth: Lonicera nitida is a good candidate. Of course, it is easy to cut it conventionally, but another solution is to grind a good quantity and spread it on the ground: a small proportion (but which represents a lot of plants in absolute value) will spontaneously cut in the middle mulching, so there is nothing to do! : Wink:

Note that I ignore the subsequent behavior of these cuttings: it will probably depend on the thickness of the ground material layer, because it is eminently desirable that the roots produced meet the ground to be properly fed ... Otherwise, there is the possibility to transplant the small plants, as I did for a few dozen specimens (at this stage of micro cuttings, this is not a problem, at least if you do not let them dry in the sun while waiting ... : roll: ).
0 x
"Please don't believe what I'm telling you."
User avatar
guibnd
Éconologue good!
Éconologue good!
posts: 270
Registration: 24/07/17, 14:58
Location: Normandy - eure
x 68

Re: grafting, budding, layering and cuttings ...




by guibnd » 03/06/18, 12:41

Ahmed wrote:I am duplicating here what I wrote in the thread "Which crusher for BRF?", Since it may hold more the attention of those who are interested in this one:
A lazy tip for those who wish to replace their box hedge with a similar plant, but who does not attract the European moth: Lonicera nitida is a good candidate. Of course, it is easy to cut it conventionally, but another solution is to grind a good quantity and spread it on the ground: a small proportion (but which represents a lot of plants in absolute value) will spontaneously cut in the middle mulching, so there is nothing to do! : Wink:

Note that I ignore the subsequent behavior of these cuttings: it will probably depend on the thickness of the ground material layer, because it is eminently desirable that the roots produced meet the ground to be properly fed ... Otherwise, there is the possibility to transplant the small plants, as I did for a few dozen specimens (at this stage of micro cuttings, this is not a problem, at least if you do not let them dry in the sun while waiting ... : roll: ).

thank you Ahmed, yes it's not just boxwood in life, lonicera nitida does its little thing, it's a very good alternative to boxwood.
I have, in a free field hedge of a hundred meters planted 7-8 years ago, a dozen boxwood (among viburnums obier and lantane, green maples, purples, horned corn, dogwood, hornbeam, holly coolers ...).
less than 500m as the crow flies, there is the village castle with its small trimmed borders, the owner of the castle told me a while ago that they are fighting against the European moth which is causing damage.
my barely trimmed boxwood, just enough to keep the hedge free in reasonable proportions (maximum 2m high) shows no sign of borer.
I wonder if the repeated sizes of boxwood (and the density of planting) to make borders of 20cm high would not weaken them?
I planted a shrub every 2 m on the row, in a double staggered hedge.

in addition, the laurel palm is also very easily cut. One year, we pruned the laurels in October, no time to pick up the small cups that had been piled up with the quick rake. in the spring, many small stems had taken root, well we set it on fire because there is enough to prune laurel : Wink:
0 x
Twandering with clayey and fertile wheat, full of water in winter, cold in spring, crushed and cracked in summer,
but that was before the Didite ...
Ahmed
Econologue expert
Econologue expert
posts: 12298
Registration: 25/02/08, 18:54
Location: Burgundy
x 2963

Re: grafting, budding, layering and cuttings ...




by Ahmed » 03/06/18, 13:03

I do not believe much in the influence of the size on the moths, because I traversed a little the hills of the Ardèche last summer and the boxwood is very present there in its natural state, but everything was eaten away ... :(
Lonicera nitida offers an alternative for those who are tired of fighting against the European moth, but there are also other candidates for replacement ... It should be avoided that everyone transfers the boxwood for Lonicera, because a new pathogen could then very well appear: it is part of the functioning of nature, we must be aware of it ... 8)
0 x
"Please don't believe what I'm telling you."
User avatar
guibnd
Éconologue good!
Éconologue good!
posts: 270
Registration: 24/07/17, 14:58
Location: Normandy - eure
x 68

Re: grafting, budding, layering and cuttings ...




by guibnd » 03/06/18, 14:06

Have any of you ever tried to plant a grafted tomato plant?
I saw it in gardening and plant festivals, it's very expensive I think!
What do you think ?
0 x
Twandering with clayey and fertile wheat, full of water in winter, cold in spring, crushed and cracked in summer,
but that was before the Didite ...
Bardal
I posted 500 messages!
I posted 500 messages!
posts: 509
Registration: 01/07/16, 10:41
Location: 56 and 45
x 198

Re: grafting, budding, layering and cuttings ...




by Bardal » 03/06/18, 16:53

Yes, not directly, but in my neighbor's vegetable garden, 2 m from my own plants.

The experience did not convince me (but it is only an experience):

- plants cost around 5 times more than ordinary plants

- they are more vigorous, at least for the beginning of the growth, and the first flowers seem earlier

- the rootstock is reputed to offer good protection against certain diseases transmitted by the ground…

- the experiment stopped at the beginning of July, an episode of rainy cold causing a mildew on all these plants, none of which survived.

Mine, very ordinary, escaped the disease thanks to the umbrella with which I had provided them; this story of an umbrella seems to me the best invention I have been advised for tomatoes; at least in Brittany ...
0 x
User avatar
guibnd
Éconologue good!
Éconologue good!
posts: 270
Registration: 24/07/17, 14:58
Location: Normandy - eure
x 68

Re: grafting, budding, layering and cuttings ...




by guibnd » 04/06/18, 00:12

It didn't seem very convincing then ...
One thing that works well is to make tomato cuttings with gourmets when pruning, it allows to have new plants in reserve (and which cost nothing) if need be replaced in case of diseases ... or for later production
0 x
Twandering with clayey and fertile wheat, full of water in winter, cold in spring, crushed and cracked in summer,
but that was before the Didite ...
User avatar
Did67
Moderator
Moderator
posts: 20362
Registration: 20/01/08, 16:34
Location: Alsace
x 8685

Re: grafting, budding, layering and cuttings ...




by Did67 » 04/06/18, 09:52

I was offered one, which is in the greenhouse. It is very beautiful ... But it is not something absolutely exceptional either.

I cut down gourmets. It works almost 100%, even if it was like dried out for 15 days! It is characteristic of nightshades that they form roots very easily: I have also "cuttings" of the sprouts from my consumption potatoes. The fact of "laying down" the tomatoes at the plantation is almost a kind of cuttings of the rooted plants!
0 x
User avatar
guibnd
Éconologue good!
Éconologue good!
posts: 270
Registration: 24/07/17, 14:58
Location: Normandy - eure
x 68

Re: grafting, budding, layering and cuttings ...




by guibnd » 04/06/18, 10:17

Did67 wrote:I was offered one, which is in the greenhouse. It is very beautiful ... But it is not something absolutely exceptional either.

I cut down gourmets. It works almost 100%, even if it was like dried out for 15 days! It is characteristic of nightshades that they form roots very easily: I have also "cuttings" of the sprouts from my consumption potatoes. The fact of "laying down" the tomatoes at the plantation is almost a kind of cuttings of the rooted plants!

Yes I plant my tomato plants either a little deeper or tilted under the ground (depending on what the height of the stem allows by removing one or two bottom leaves that have become useless, I manage to cut the bottom leaves 1 or 2 days before planting so that the wound heals before putting in the ground (a belief of mine which may be far-fetched but I thought that a recent injury could be the ideal gateway to disease)
0 x
Twandering with clayey and fertile wheat, full of water in winter, cold in spring, crushed and cracked in summer,
but that was before the Didite ...

Back to "Agriculture: problems and pollution, new techniques and solutions"

Who is online ?

Users browsing this forum : No registered users and 325 guests