Grafting, budding, layering and cuttings ...

Agriculture and soil. Pollution control, soil remediation, humus and new agricultural techniques.
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Re: grafting, budding, layering and cuttings ...




by Did67 » 29/05/18, 09:53

izentrop wrote:
Ahmed, layering does allow variety to be preserved, doesn't it?


Yes, yes ... It's the same "piece of tree" that continues its life elsewhere ...

It just deprives "technical improvements" that allow the choice of "rootstocks" ... There is a range of rootstocks to adapt to constraints: too calcareous soils, dwarfing rootstocks ... etc.

By grafting, we obtain a "hybrid" plant [mixed would perhaps be more suitable to avoid confusion with genetic hybridization], with a lower part which can be adapted to the soil and an upper part which faithfully reproduces the variety. .
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Re: grafting, budding, layering and cuttings ...




by Ahmed » 29/05/18, 10:54

Layering, cuttings and suckering * are vegetative multiplications which therefore provide perfect "copies" of the cloned variety. Grafting also ensures this, but with the differences mentioned by Did.

* Suckering is the production of aerial stems on roots; it is a mode of propagation used by certain plants and it is the usual reaction of an locust after the cutting of its trunk (in addition to the rejections of stump).
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Re: grafting, budding, layering and cuttings ...




by Did67 » 29/05/18, 12:15

Ahmed wrote:
* Suckering is the production of aerial stems on roots; it is a mode of propagation used by certain plants and it is the usual reaction of an locust after the cutting of its trunk (in addition to the rejections of stump).


Particularly spectacular and a real craze for the raspberry tree, which thinks above all of sucking with its roots horizontally - to the point that you can pull it out by pulling just a little! - rather than fetching water in depth [at its landfill: it was customary for the wet edges of forests, or wet clearings - it is well known that the forest does not really dry out! Well, when the man forces him to live elsewhere, the adaptive mechanism which was an advantage - it allows to invade the favorable zone quickly done well - becomes a disadvantage - lack of water!]

[As a raspberry avocado - one of the few fruits or vegetables that I can eat non-stop for 6 months without feeling sick! - I wanted to clarify that it is the fault of men !!!]
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Re: grafting, budding, layering and cuttings ...




by Ahmed » 29/05/18, 12:31

We observe a similar mechanism in strawberries, with its many runners (this is not suckering in the strict sense) and for the same reasons as raspberries.
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Re: grafting, budding, layering and cuttings ...




by Did67 » 29/05/18, 19:20

This is what I call the coherence of the living: why tire yourself out looking for water if it is not the limiting factor; on the other hand, spreading out and occupying the whole place very quickly is vital when the place (in the light) is counted ... You have to spread out very quickly, faster than the others ...

This is what raspberries, blackberries (which are naturally layered; any branch that drags the ground takes root), strawberries ...

If only man were so consistent!
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Re: grafting, budding, layering and cuttings ...




by to be chafoin » 30/05/18, 18:49

Did67 wrote:This is what I call the coherence of the living: why tire yourself out looking for water if it is not the limiting factor; on the other hand, spreading out and occupying the whole place very quickly is vital when the place (in the light) is counted ... You have to spread out very quickly, faster than the others ...
This is what raspberries, blackberries (which are naturally layered; any branch that drags the ground takes root), strawberries ...

So should we classify pumpkin style creeping / climbing gourds in this family of edge plants?
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Re: grafting, budding, layering and cuttings ...




by Did67 » 30/05/18, 18:57

Joker. I have no info on the origin of the squash. But I don't think so. They are more creeping than climbing (even if you can make them climb), who have a penchant for piles of trash, manure, compost, etc. ... In short for places where fresh organic matter decomposes.

In my opinion, these are more plants from open environments, colonizing fences ...

This is just an opinion.
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Re: grafting, budding, layering and cuttings ...




by guibnd » 01/06/18, 09:05

Ahmed wrote:@ Guibnd: as regards the dimensions, my memories are rather vague, but it is not too critical: 1,5 to 3 cm in diameter ...
To understand the technique, here is a photo of the tool I made.

Well, it's stupid, but the grass is the clearest! : Oops: However, this is sufficient to see the details: a piece of wood with parallel edges, two pieces of packing tape, two nails serving as pins, two packing clips to clamp the other end of the strip, two old ones "pop" rivet points cut to length and each inserted in its groove and glued with araldite and two cutter blades (the only new element!). The piece of wood is rounded on its back to fit the hand. With this instrument, it is easy to pick up two pieces that are exactly identical in height; the second on the rootstock only serves to spare the place of the graft; thus, the sap channels coincide perfectly. The graft is adjusted in width so that there is a clearance of about 2 mm on one side (the other side must be well joined): this allows the formation of scar bulges without risk of causing a detachment of the room.
The trick when collecting the graft consists of this: after incision up / down with the double graft and incision of two vertical with an ordinary graft (well sharpened and clean), the bark is carefully peeled off around the eye ; once this operation is finished, place your curved index finger behind the stem to take support and place your thumb in front of the bud (on the side), then apply pressure towards the other side: this causes the slide the whole graft with the shearing of the small point which has formed on the cambium (under the bark and in contact with it) and which feeds the bud. Without this last precaution, the eye will no longer be in contact with the cambium and will inexorably dry out. Immediately immerse the harvested grafts in a bucket filled with water.
Questions?

very clever your tool for a perfect match between graft and PG!
I note the small game of 2mm on one side to avoid future detachment of the graft ... I would have applied to make the 2 sides coincide.
I do not understand your little tip that I highlighted in blue, you could make me a small photo to illustrate the gesture please? thank you.

I also saw that one can make a transplant in flute or (whistle) ordinary or with strips which has the advantage of compensating if cutting the graft too short in height.

I will try these grafts on sleeping eyes and as I have several departures (3 or 4), I will stagger in time (from June to September).

I saw on foreign videos (Turkey, Armenia or Georgia ... the cradle of the walnut tree) that they surround the grafts with earth (with plastic tubes filled with earth to avoid drying out). maybe useful in my case if hot weather at the time of my transplants, but as I do not understand what they say, I do not know whether to remove before winter or spring?
do you know this way of doing things?
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but that was before the Didite ...
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Re: grafting, budding, layering and cuttings ...




by Ahmed » 01/06/18, 14:18

Well, I would try to make you a photo, the idea to remember is that you should not try to lift the bud by pulling on it, but to perform a slide parallel to the branch to cut the part of the cambium (white part located immediately under the bark) which engages inside the bud.
Regarding your second question, there are different techniques to keep the graft in place and to protect it from drying out; For my part, I used "cellofrais" (stretchable plastic sheet used to cover food) cut into small rolls ("scotch" style). I applied it in a strip to secure it and make it waterproof and creasing it when I wanted to exert pressure (ligature). The advantage of this process compared to other bandages is this flexibility and also its transparency which makes it possible to follow the progress of healing: once the bead has been acquired and the axil of the sheet has been detached, the protection becomes unnecessary ( anyway, plastic tends to degrade quite quickly in UV).
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Re: grafting, budding, layering and cuttings ...




by guibnd » 01/06/18, 14:42

Ahmed wrote:Well, I would try to make you a photo, the idea to remember is that you should not try to lift the bud by pulling on it, but to make a sliding parallel to the branch to cut the part of the cambium (white part located immediately under the bark) which engages inside the bud.
Regarding your second question, there are different techniques to keep the graft in place and to protect it from drying out; For my part, I used "cellofrais" (stretchable plastic sheet used to cover food) cut into small rolls ("scotch" style). I applied it in a strip to secure it and make it waterproof and creasing it when I wanted to exert pressure (ligature). The advantage of this process compared to other bandages is this flexibility and also its transparency which makes it possible to follow the progress of healing: once the bead has been acquired and the axil of the sheet has been detached, the protection becomes unnecessary ( anyway, plastic tends to degrade quite quickly in UV).

: Idea: I just understood with the expression "parallel sliding" not to hollow out the eye
perfect stretch film!
one more detail: my PGs are in their 2nd year with a diameter of 15-20 mm, no more? do you think it is wiser to wait another year?
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Twandering with clayey and fertile wheat, full of water in winter, cold in spring, crushed and cracked in summer,
but that was before the Didite ...

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