Absolutely.
Put some sawdust at the end of winter and you will see "yellowish" vegetables all spring and summer. In contact with the soil, organic matter is used as food for soil organisms, which multiply depending mainly on humidity and temperature. And the abundance of food! A pile of "forest chips" begins to be invaded by mycelia in the days which follow its dumping. May / June, the ground has dried up, it is still quite humid, but the air circulates there, it has warmed up and exceeded 14 ° ... this is the time when the activity is at its maximum . So if organisms can't find what they need, they hit the soil reserves!
Most of the hay that I used in January to plant the shallots and onions (it's on video) is now "digested"; weeds proliferate !!!
It is when these mechanisms are at their maximum, therefore from May / June, that the nitrogen "withdrawals", in the event of C / N too high, are at their maximum ... where plants need it!
Permaculture and phenoculture for beginners
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Re: Permaculture and phenoculture for beginners
Did67 wrote:Absolutely.
Put some sawdust at the end of winter and you will see "yellowish" vegetables all spring and summer.
Okay, but I wasn't talking about sawdust but hay or leaves! Which are not as directly attackable from my point of view because it will be necessary to go through what you generally call a "dismantibulation" by organisms visible to the naked eye which it will take a little time to work. In my opinion, there is still a dynamic of decomposition that makes a difference, once again in contribution without incorporation.
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Re: Permaculture and phenoculture for beginners
sawdust or fake BRF, same fight ...
the potatoes planted under a good layer of wood have at home, a very weak development, few stems and small, it is pale yellowish green, the leaves stitched with brown spots (mildew?)
I snatched one of these plants, 5 result or 6 tiny tubers.
In comparison, those planted elsewhere under hay, the foliage is normal, well green and well developed.
the potatoes planted under a good layer of wood have at home, a very weak development, few stems and small, it is pale yellowish green, the leaves stitched with brown spots (mildew?)
I snatched one of these plants, 5 result or 6 tiny tubers.
In comparison, those planted elsewhere under hay, the foliage is normal, well green and well developed.
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Re: Permaculture and phenoculture for beginners
sicetaitsimple wrote:
Okay, but I wasn't talking about sawdust but hay or leaves! Which are not as directly attackable from my point of view because it will be necessary to go through what you generally call a "dismantibulation" by organisms visible to the naked eye which it will take a little time to work. In my opinion, there is still a dynamic of decomposition that makes a difference, once again in contribution without incorporation.
I took the example of sawdust because "it's worse" ...
Other biomasses, such as straw, hay, dead leaves decompose much faster, so a lack of nitrogen translates even faster (but it is less important, less "visible" insofar as the lack of nitrogen is good. more limited, the biomass a little more balanced - even non-existent in the case of hay; that's what will make the difference; we always come back to the same thing - do not put anything).
The absence of incorporation does not in any way prevent contact between biomass and moist soil. Simply, it limits it to the lower layer. So the top, which remains dry, does not decompose immediately. So, yes, the effect is diluted. The slower dynamics. But if someone whistles your Côtes du Rhône to you, whether they do it greedily in a few days or slowly in a few weeks, the result is the same. The bottle you wanted to taste is whistled! So in my opinion, even if it is less brutal, the effect on the cycle of your vegetable will be clear (except legumes, which compensate by the symbiotic fixation, and for which this "racking" can be beneficial since they auto - regulate the part of symbiotic fixation according to the presence of nitrogen in the soil; here, your reasoning applies, but for another reason; and they should be weaned from nitrogen).
It's just my point of view. I obviously have no way of measuring this activity, nitrogen content, "depressive effects" ...
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Re: Permaculture and phenoculture for beginners
Hello to tousse
here it is when we were preparing strawberries for a terrace, handling the earth, I saw eggs of two millimeters with a somewhat translucent aspect and I have no idea what its being, maybe?
who can tell me what he thinks
thank you so I can get an idea of himself that could be
here it is when we were preparing strawberries for a terrace, handling the earth, I saw eggs of two millimeters with a somewhat translucent aspect and I have no idea what its being, maybe?
who can tell me what he thinks
thank you so I can get an idea of himself that could be
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Re: Permaculture and phenoculture for beginners
Did67 wrote:Probably slugs: http://www.gerbeaud.com/jardin/jardinag ... ,1161.html
thank you it's here now i'll be about 15 snail + in the corner ,, we are not at his very grrr here there is a profusion
the thing that I'm going to try against the gastropods, for this terrace, is to make a vertical fence of 10 cm high about finished at the top by a horizontal boulder of 5 cm minimum with mosquito net ,, recovery ,, that I have In stock I want to see what his given ??
I will read your links to learn more about it! for a higher grade efficiency ,,,
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Re: Permaculture and phenoculture for beginners
Chris, you write:
I would advise you to adopt an angle much lower than 90 ° to block your critters more effectively ...
the thing that I'm going to try against the gastropods, for this terrace is to make a vertical barrier of 10 cm high, finished at the top by a horizontal spoiler 5 cm minimum
I would advise you to adopt an angle much lower than 90 ° to block your critters more effectively ...
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"Please don't believe what I'm telling you."
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Re: Permaculture and phenoculture for beginners
Ahmed wrote:Chris, you write:the thing that I'm going to try against the gastropods, for this terrace is to make a vertical barrier of 10 cm high, finished at the top by a horizontal spoiler 5 cm minimum
I would advise you to adopt an angle much lower than 90 ° to block your critters more effectively ...
yes everything is right!
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