VAE experience, practical electric bicycle with trailer

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I Citro
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by I Citro » 10/02/15, 22:52

: Arrowu: Excellent advice bidouille23. 8)
Cyclurba and vélorizontal are forums reference in the matter.

I drank like whey your explanations on the advantages of the pedal motors including Dirk pitt also praises the merits. :D

I'm looking to make a new pack for my ISD Explorer VAE and I don't know yet what I will take.
I have a weakness for cylindrical LifePo4 cells with screw-on terminations, but I remain open to any solution to replace my Kokam lipos which are weak, especially since the battery box is sized to receive lead / gel batteries which are much more bulky ...

I did not remember that Doctor bass used LiFePo, I remembered that he was doing battery service for the brand of portable electric DEWALT which he recycled the cells of the defective packs.
http://youtu.be/xThvXMTMuXA
Unfortunately, I do not frequent the forum Endless sphere of which he is a prominent member, not being very English-speaking ...
:|
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by bidouille23 » 10/02/15, 23:55

re,

it worked with nanostructures, I don't remember the brand anymore, now you can also find them at resellers of nanobattery models, the organization of the cells is done at the nanometer level to allow a deeper and stronger discharge. .. certain car turns with that too .. the construction of the factory of origin resumed I believe, but it is necessary to be wary of the Chinese counterfeit .... I would put the name if that comes back to me ...

Now if you go to the doctor bass site you will see that it rotates with cylindrical cells screwed;) ... I almost took it and I fell back on lifepo from Hobbyking;) cheaper you can not ... and it's powerful, a little too much :) 30 C just that ... But the load and balancing is a real misery ... it will be easier with the cylindrical cells I think even if a little chi ... nt anyway ... The lifepo is more likely you must speak to him with kind words and a good charger that does its job well on the last moment of charging ... otherwise it is safe no fire in case of overload :) .... I like the principle in addition to the more important recycling (total from what it says), and the number of charge and discharge cycles more important too ....

On endless and cyclurba there are quite a few tests ...

Now the value for money that kills it is basic lipo from hobby king ... with an electronic chouilla you have something, like lipo alarm, or better a batman,;) it is voltmeter ammeter power meter any meter :) to be able to read live what comes out of your battery and therefore what remains and what happens to the engine, suddenly it's safe and it will save you from draining your battery and killing them, normally the bms manages the amperage and cut before the battery is damaged (you need a good one you can do without with the lipo alarm and the battman but it's hotter) ... there are also packs for 36 volt 8 Ah aircraft;) ...

Finally come the controllers, there it is the fun between the modifiable Chinese thing which functions well, to modify them (by Mr LINK for example), etc etc you have the choice :) , but a good controller is an advantage (which I don't have at the moment but you have to start with a tip) ...

a yes for those who would order like me directly in China, sometimes you will have customs fees ds times no ... personal 20 euros, that I got paid by the carrier :D ... the muddle nice;) ... in short it's worth it if you do not get formalized on what you ordered lol, but it happens quickly and well and it works ...

example https://bmsbattery.com/38-rear-driving

For those who want a hub kit, take Q100 I cross or something like that it takes a hundred euros ... (avoid ordering the batteries or rims, the package is large and catches the eye, and for batteries in theory you have to declare a dangerous product), if you work well at hobby Uk or holland you have some for a lipoly example http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__ ... ouse_.html

42 euros the 5 ah in 6s or 22 volts roughly, that leaves room for a little more electronics like charger etc etc ... or for those who have chargers and bms etc (which does not cost a fortune no more), well it makes a good battery to try ...

In short there is the choice ...

I remind you that there is a young man who showed up here at the beginning of last summer, he was leaving for a road trike to Kazakhstan .... from Belgium ... please ... .

http://kazaktrike.weebly.com/

he arrived, with a trailer ... now what I say;) .... valiant heart nothing is impossible ... :D

And I have no doubt that the batteries will continue to progress ...


(small detail the current battery is so powerful in discharge, the highest 100 C, 100 times their capacity : Shock: ), it is quite possible to start your car :) .... positive test on cyclurba :D ...

if not for general and current use, go see a professional editor is also a good thing, he will be able to help and troubleshoot ... it all depends on the desire to put your hands in it or not ... but if we do not want to put the hands in it is better to go see someone who manages the thing to make a suitable config ...

On cyclurba there are good addresses I believe in Belgium ...

see you
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by dirk pitt » 11/02/15, 08:48

Woodcutter wrote:I quite agree with the details on Citro (trailer and powerful engine) and more, contrary to other opinions expressed here, my experience shows me that a drawbar trailer under the saddle is quite well suited for city very handy and have little influence (everything is relative ...) on the reactions of the bike.


yes, I should have clarified my remark: I was speaking about the cycloboost single-wheel trailer hooked under the saddle which is quite unstable. for single wheels, it is preferable to attach it to the rear bobcat style hub.
for a 2-wheel trailer no worries, it's always stable.
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by Woodcutter » 11/02/15, 13:12

citro wrote:[...] I suppose it is powered by a 48V battery that you carry in a backpack.

But I invite you to present it to us, particularly in terms of motor control and instrumentation. : Mrgreen:[...]
No, I stayed in 36V, but actually, the battery is in my backpack.

There is a specific section to present your electro-mounts : Mrgreen: (it's been a while since I've been on the site ... : Oops: )
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by Woodcutter » 11/02/15, 13:18

Lady Andine wrote:Woodcutter Ah, thank you to transmit your experience. It reassures me :-).
You know tell me what is the power of your bike?
And your trailer, it is home? She looks great :-).
I mounted a 02V and 36W BAFANG BBS500 bottom bracket motor on my bike.
The trailer is pretty common around here, I got it back a few years ago. It's called a "barroutou" in the local dialect and it can be towed by hand as well as by bicycle ...
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by I Citro » 11/02/15, 13:22

The question of fixing the trailer is subject to debate, one should try to compare.

The problem with fasteners on the hub fixing bolt is that the short turn is limited by the trailer arm on one side.

The ideal would be to have a real hitch ball at the rear end of the bike, like on cars ... and at the same level as the hub.

The demonstration videos of the Cycloboost mountain bike trailer are truly amazing.
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by Woodcutter » 11/02/15, 13:44

bidouille23 wrote:[...]
Batteries, lipo big question, li ion, po life safer ...
Doctor Bass turns with LiFePO ... he's the man tojours record my speed if I'm not mistaken ... so he built quality assembly .... if it turns into LiFePO there is a reason; ) ....

For what is the battery for DIY there is the pack version of radio controlled models;), cheaper and very effective ...

Otherwise for all comers but for all comers there is a reseller such as PING (ping battery special vae) and many others ... [...]
In terms of batteries, I think we must first ask the question of what we want to do with it, and how.
Let me explain: a heavy mountain biker user (like me) will not have the same need at all as a biker for example!

Me in my case I needed a large capacity battery (to be able to investigate D +) but not to make the bike too heavy: I therefore chose a lion-ion and more particularly an NCM (Lithium and nnickel-cobalt-manganese) from a renowned cell manufacturer (but it pays for itself!) which provides an energy density of 200Wh / kg. Or 730 Wh for 3,6 kg for me.
For velotaf use (every day, not very far, slight influence of weight), the LiFePo4 (Lithium iron-phosphate) technology is very interesting because it offers several thousand charge cycles, but it is much heavier. .

"RC" type batteries (radio control) are not recommended, in my opinion ... They are indeed inexpensive, but do not have a very good reputation and their lifespan can be dramatically short!

bidouille23 wrote:[...] I would say around 10 Ah, should be enough for Belgian dishes and strolls or races on a 30-mile run ... [...]
The capacity is to be adapted to the mileage you want to do, of course, but also to the intensity of the current delivered by the controller to the motor, because the battery life depends on it! A "small" battery of 10Ah for example will be very stressed if it is asked for a current of 20 A (or 2C) often enough.

bidouille23 wrote:[...] after 12 or 24 V voltage side, it seems to me that in Belgium it is like in France, 250 W max during I do not know how many seconds, so after 24 it is dead to stay within rules ... [...]
No, this is all regulated by the controller. We can very well be in 36V and "stay in the nails" at the legal level, as long as the controller limits the average mechanical power to 250W (there are other legal constraints too).
Otherwise 12V it no longer exists (as long as it existed on a bike?) And 24V it becomes very rare ...
All "recent" series E-MTBs with Bosch, Impulse, Yamaha, Shimano, Brose, etc ... are 36V and for kits, it is most often 36V or 48V for "current" proposals.

bidouille23 wrote:[...] The advantage of the pedal motor is that we keep the benefit of speeds unlike the hub motor ... [...]
Toutafé! 8)
Very important in mountain biking when you want to tackle the mountains, it is much less problematic in the plain ...

The disadvantage of the pedal motor is: greater wear on the transmission and inability to regenerate when braking.
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by Woodcutter » 11/02/15, 16:04

citro wrote:[...]
The ideal would be to have a real coupling ball at the rear end of the bike, like on cars ... and at the same level as the hub. [...]
Here is what we do in the area to attach "baroutou" type trailers:
Image

Everything from recycling:
- lower ball joint car suspension
- piece of bicycle frame ...

And it's not bad, the push of the trailer (downhill, braking) is done well in the center of the bike, important not to be destabilized while driving ...

The hub fastening systems are valid especially on very flat tracks, and with less load to tow.

A hitch ball system, I saw one in Brittany 4 years ago but I can no longer find the photos. It was a real system like cars, in miniature, very pretty ...
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by I Citro » 12/02/15, 00:33

Say, it's more a handlebar, it's an airbus cockpit your bike ... :D

On the dish, you believe how much without forcing too much. :?:
And in terms of capacity and autonomy, it gives what. :?:
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by Woodcutter » 12/02/15, 13:48

citro wrote:Say, it's more a handlebar, it's an airbus cockpit your bike ... :D
It's a bit true : Oops: On the advice of forumeurs de Cyclurba, I installed a Batt-man wattmeter which allows you to really monitor its battery, suddenly with the rather big screen of the BAFANG console, it is indeed a little crowded ... : Wink:

citro wrote:On the dish, you believe how much without forcing too much. :?:
It completely depends on what level of assistance you choose! There, I have 5 levels and on the weakest, I hold 20 km / h (note: MTB with 2.5 "soft tires ...) without fatigue.
This is what I posted on Cyclurba a few months ago (October) when I only had 3 levels of assistance (level 1 = 4.5 A, level 2 = 10 A, level 3 and trigger = 18.9 A) :
Autonomy and consumption in summary, with a 20Ah / 36V battery and a 125 kg rolling assembly:
- level 1 assistance => 125 km and 5,8 Wh / km
- level 2 assistance => 67 km and 10,7 Wh / km
- level 3 assistance => 55 km and 13.1 Wh / km

Cruising speed on the flat:
- level 1 assistance => 25 km / h
- level 2 assistance => 35 km / h
- level 3 assistance => 40 km / h


It is on the post here.
citro wrote:And in terms of capacity and autonomy, it gives what. :?:
Answer just above, knowing that it was rather for road travel. In pure mountain biking, I rather measure in terms of D + and I have already made outings with 1600 m D + and 35 to 40 km without completely draining the battery. With a little training and in summer (important!) I must be able to reach 2000m D +.
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