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Obamot
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by Obamot » 10/08/13, 01:25

The problem (or advantage, but not in this case) of ink for prosumers ink jet printers is that they are water soluble.

So even if you managed, I doubt that it holds Louphil!

There are certain "dye" inks which need solvent to be removed (drying by oxidation?) It leaves with isopropyl alcohol (old trick of the SAV).
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by Alain G » 10/08/13, 06:01

BobFuck wrote:an other idea :
cover the substrate with a water-based varnish (transparent acrylic for example)
bake in the printer before drying (varnish still fresh)

the varnish should fix the ink, it should try to see ...



The varnish will not stick without the preparation of the surface of the acrylic!

It is absolutely necessary to use an alcohol or acetone-based ink to adhere well to this surface.

Louphil

Have you tried to whiten the surface with fine sand or with lacquer solvent spray to adhere the ink?

As for your printer and printing on Plexiglass (your original question), it is difficult to know if you can modify it without having it in hand but with what I can see on the images found on Oueb only a flexible support can work, right? Otherwise a thickness sensor can be modified or moved to accomodate the Plexy.

See you!
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by louphil » 10/08/13, 09:21

What ideas !!! It's all over! That's great !!!

@ Chatelot:

For industrial machines, I'm like you: I do not have thousands of euros available ... To forget, so ...

I had tried the solution stickers (self-adhesive paper): very unconvincing results, a multitude of air bubbles that can not be removed and do not give right to the laying error (not repositionable).

Otherwise, even if it means to tamper with a laser printer, so do it to make direct printing. I do not know the principle of laser printing and do not know if it's possible ... But I think there must be a heating step that the plexi should not appreciate (what T ° to see. ..). Anyway, I do not have it on hand ....

@Bob:

The idea of ​​printing on a layer of fresh varnish had crossed my mind at one point, and then went away. But I do not think it can work. I had the opportunity to paint and put my fingers. To wash with water, I am well emmer ..e: the water slid on. I had to use WSpirit ... Well, the polish in question was polyurethane, but it must be the same with acrylics, right?

@Obamot:

Yes indeed . Moreover, to avoid the ink deposited on a water decal to dissolve during the soaking prior to the transfer of support, I varnish to isolate the water ...

For the ink quality I use, it's Ultra Chrome (pigmented). But it's still an aqueous base, I think ...

@Alain:
No, I have not tried sandblasting (not the material available). On the other hand, I can try to bleach with a fine abrasive (> 1000), by sanding in both directions alternately.
On the other hand I do not see if the result can be valid through the "white" surface. Also, I was thinking of intensive but brief heating after printing to tighten (or smoothen) the surface ...
For the lacquer solvent, do you mean cosmetic or paint remover ((it may be the same thing ...) But the problem of bleaching (plexi, not dirty money) : Wink: ) would be its impact on the transparency of plexi ...

The mechanics of the printer allow a rigid media to pass right through it, as does the CD / DVD "carriage", which is nothing but a plastic plate including a location for the printer. CD.
It was this feature that made me think about it.

My plexi with a thickness identical to that of a CD (2 mm) does not pose this problem. It is rather its flat dimensions that pose problem. Perhaps its transparency also deceives the paper presence sensor? But I think it can work out by sticking paper under the plexi when printing.

On the other hand, I had thought to print on photo paper then to stick the face printed on the plexi with a glue transparency ultra fuide to avoid bubbling. But I do not know if such a roll paper, or if such a glue exist on the market. If so, all that must not be given ...
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by chatelot16 » 10/08/13, 13:02

paste a self-adhesive transparent film without bubble is not so difficult that it

it's easier with transparency than with an opaque film because we can see better what we do

Do not print only the inscriptions you want, but also mark them to facilitate positioning

I have not yet found a supplier of silicone paper alone: ​​I simply use the support of the sticker film genre venilia
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by Obamot » 10/08/13, 13:08

And why not just: silkscreen ???
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gvcqwt_LZwM

It is necessary:
1) a wooden frame.
2) a glass plate in the outside format of the frame.
3) a silk fabric.
4) make a film of your motif in reprography (specify "screen printing layer")
5) of the gelatin / photosensitive emulsion + developer.
6) an electric foehn.
7) a UV lamp (I used the sun, stupidly to shock my offset plates!)
8} a tray to develop and liquid ad hoc.
9) ad hoc ink (depending on media) and squeegee.
10) support (fabric, paper, plastic, whatever you want ...)

But the best, if you don't have the material and don't want to do a lot of it, it's to give it to a silkscreen artist, in this case: you just have to make your pattern in Adobe Illustrator or Photoshop by scaling it 1/1, then put it on a USB key and give it to a reprographer => step 4) above ... Having previously taken care to give a description of the work to be done and to ask with the screenprint how he would like the film to be made: serial layer (?), tracking marks or not (?) dimension of the film he needs (?) etc ...

Because adapting an inkjet printer, we must forget, these things are sharp. And it took decades of "man years" to develop (especially the inks).
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by louphil » 10/08/13, 16:13

@Chatelot

The sticker film (at least, the one I have already tried) is the glue side that will be viewed and it is visible: it keeps a lot of micro-bubbles impossible to eliminate, unlike the water decal that is perfectly invisible.

At the limit, I can first ask my decal or sticker and then cut and drill my plexi. It's possible. But considering the elasticity of one that would give me some errors of gaping holes and the rendering of the other, I do not think it goes ...

@Obamot

I wanted to avoid the screen printing which is mostly limited to monochrome, something that I arrive perfectly with my decals ...

As long as you use the services of a provider, you can go to one of these companies that print on plexi, directly ...

Well, in conclusion for the moment, I will see if the errors that I anticipate with the decal are unacceptable or not. I'll let you know ...

On the other hand, does anyone know where I can find them in rolls?
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by BobFuck » 10/08/13, 22:24

boxes that print on panels and banners (usually made of plastic) probably have printers that can print on plastic : Mrgreen:
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by delnoram » 10/08/13, 23:03

I have personally known for PMMA that screen printing, pad printing, hot stamping and precut sticker.

That said, they may not be the only method.
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by Dominique Mulhem » 30/08/14, 23:07

Hello,

I too have been looking for a moment for a printing solution on plexi.

There is a printing solution on paper and then the collage on plexi. It is necessary to use a glossy paper then to stick with a laminator http://www.yaktrading.com/fr/Laminateurs an optical quality double-sided self-adhesive film http://www.lionpic.eu/chercher-un-produ ... ansparence

You can see examples at https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=lamination

I have also tried films for overhead projection that have a surface treated for inkjet, moreover all inkjet papers have the surface treated to receive the ink, except normal paper. It would be necessary to know which product is put on these surfaces to put it on plexi. I searched a lot, but found nothing. If we found this product, we could print on any support

cordially
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by chevesne51 » 31/08/14, 11:56

louphil wrote:
The sticker film (at least, the one I have already tried) is the glue side that will be viewed and it is visible: it keeps a lot of micro-bubbles impossible to eliminate, unlike the water decal that is perfectly invisible.



If you use the installation technique with water and dishwashing liquid (wetting), you should not have these microbubbles.
See how the films are put to tint car windows.
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