Practical advice for assembling your first “Pantone” engine.
Assemble the other valve component subassemblies below. The 1/2 ″ thick steel inlet and outlet adapter plate shown below is only used on a few engines such as Tecumseh and OHV engines (see below).
Add a 1/2 ″ NPT / 1/2 ″ male brass flare fitting to the air inlet on the adapter plate.
Some Briggs and Stratton engines usually already have the exhaust threaded for a 1/2 ”tube but the intake is on the other side of the engine so a longer length of pipe is required. It will also require a compression hose connector (fitting) or a piece of rubber hose with hose clamps to connect from the engine intake to go to the bubbler hose.
Assemble the above pre-assemblies on the reaction chamber below, being careful to install the 12 ″ rod inside, orienting it away from the motor.
Take 10 3/4 ″ x 1/2 ″ copper pipe and solder a 1/4 ″ NPT - 1/2 ″ pipe adapter to one end and a 1/2 ″ plug to the other.
Drill a 1/16 ″ hole, turn 90 ° and drill again, and also another all the way to the bottom.
Take the other 1/4 ″ NPT - 1/2 ″ adapter and cut the thin wall part to make a hollow nut to pass the pipe and file very smooth to put in the "Anti-Freeze" (bubbler) container.
Take a container of about 4 gallons of antifreeze and drill a 1/2 ″ hole near the top of the jar through the cap as pictured.
Assemble the pieces together in the following order: pipe, 3 ″ x 1/4 ″ half fitting, 1/4 ″ pipe connector, 3/4 ″ short fitting, bushing, hole in pot, bushing and nut recessed and return pressure hose - optional, 3 ″ x 1/4 ″ half fitting, 1/4 ″ elbow, 3/4 ″ short fitting, bushing, hole in pot cap, collar and welded pipe.
Make an intake / exhaust manifold according to the configuration of your mower.
Use 1/2 ″ tube for 10 HP or less (5/8 ″ tube and flare fits for 10 to 20 HP) with a 1/2 ”spring tube bender and form a loop to achieve the intake manifold.
Slide the flare nuts on each end and then slide the flare tool (make the collars) so that the tube protrudes about 3/16 ″, flare the ends.
Assemble all the parts on the motor and then add a 1 ″ tube support to support the weight of the assembly.
Be careful, you could break the collector part of your engine if all the weight of the reactor rests on it, especially since the vibrations are also destructive!
Here you are prét started!
The first start
1) Fill the bubbler with pure gasoline to start without going beyond half of the bubbler-evaporator.
2) Open the reactor outlet air valve halfway. You will see that it is this valve and the bubbler outlet valve that are the most useful.
3) Open the outlet valve bubbler thoroughly.
4) Try to start. If this does not start after ten tries, increase the opening of the air valve at the reactor outlet (air mixing valve on the plan). If it still does not go, inject some gasoline directly through this valve.
5) When the engine has started, try your hand at varying the different valves. You will see that the valves which have the most influence are the valves at the bubbler outlet and at the reactor outlet (air mixture).
6) You can reinject the exhaust gases but make sure that the pressure in the evaporator is not too great (it swells).
If you have water in the bubbler you can run the engine in completely closed circuit for a while (no exhaust gas then leaves the engine).
We will explain to the page "Tests possible with this assembly" how this is possible!
The following : list of parts required to mount a pantone