Practical advice for assembling your first “Pantone” engine.
These tips were written to be accessible to all, without means of specific embodiments and simply without welding with the plumbing equipment available anywhere. They follow the following plans (click to enlarge):
Obviously if you have more ways you can use them to improve this arrangement.
In any case, we invite you to present your achievements and observations the forums.
Indeed, the more testimonials there are, the more chances the system will have of being better understood and mastered.
These follow the advice original plan of a modification to make a pantone engine.
However, these tips and plans do not need to be followed to the letter provided that your assembly does not have an air intake and is carried out with a minimum of care.
We repeat this assembly only serves to discover the process on a small mower engine in this case. In no case is it an optimized assembly for vehicles (to discover assemblies on vehicles, click here ). Specify all the same that this installation you will already run your engine with heavier fuels (like heating oil, kerosene or better still crude vegetable oil or Diester). When we know the prices of fuels sold in 5L can for gardening, this can be interesting!
We do not accept any liability if these tips are used for application on public roads.
The tools required are: pipe wrenches, crescent or variable opening, brake springs pipes, pipe cutters, tools for flaring tubes, Allen key, welding equipment, lime and screwdriver.
Obtain all parts and tools in advance, see Parts list. Most professional plumbing stores have in stock the best quality parts as major DIY centers where they are cheaper.
But the savings aren't big on a small project like this. The part whose quality is the most crucial is the inner pipe, problems arise from incompatible wall thicknesses, joints to thick welds on poor quality pipes making the assembly harder to adjust.
Disassemble the engine by removing the gas tank, muffler, and carburetor. Remove the mower blade and replace it with a steel flywheel, a 12 ″ (30cm) diameter disc the same thickness as the blade to be safe. This is obviously not mandatory for the modification but contributes to your safety.
Take the 1 ″ x1 / 2 ″ x1 / 2 ″ reduction T's and mount them on a 1 ″ fitting (a short tube), then using a turn, machine the end to soften it , and ream the hole in the 27/32 ″ (21mm) end so that the 1/2 ″ inner pipe can slide (slide) in.
For those (many) who do not have access to a lathe: you can also do this with a drill press to drill the 27/32 ″ or 7/8 ″ hole at the end of the T and then use a file to soften and remove rough parts.
The 1/2 ″ tube connector and the 1/2 ″ T must each have a smooth end to receive the copper washers intended to make a good seal.
Have a plumber cut your 1/2 ″ to 16 + 7/16 ″ inner reactor tube and thread both ends.
Here use black pipes because galvanized pipes give off toxic fumes if heated too much. File the 12 ″ x 1/2 ″ steel rod into a rounded shape on one end only.
Assemble the parts in order as in the photo below using 7/8 ″ / 22mm copper washers used for the oil pan drain plugs - (2T machined reduction from 2 - 1 ″ x1 / 2 ″ x1 / 2 ″, joined by the 12 ″ long by 1 ″ fitting, slide the 16 + 7/16 ″ long reactor pipe by 1/2 ″ inside and add a copper washer to each end then add the 1/2 ″ tee, the 1/2 ″ NPT / 1/2 ″ male brass flare fitting, then a 1 1/2 ″ fitting and a 1/2 ″ air mixing valve. XNUMX/XNUMX ″